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thoughts on this article?

blakerugg

LawnSite Senior Member
i know its a long article but if u can please read it and give me ur thoughts on how good the information that is provides is. im trying to learn haha
 

DiyDave

LawnSite Bronze Member
Location
Gambrills, MD
Sounds like he has read a few articles, but has no practical experience. I didn't look up his pedigree, but that's my impression from what I read. Another member of the media pretending to know about that which he speaks!:laugh::laugh::waving:
 
OP
B

blakerugg

LawnSite Senior Member
Sounds like he has read a few articles, but has no practical experience. I didn't look up his pedigree, but that's my impression from what I read. Another member of the media pretending to know about that which he speaks!:laugh::laugh::waving:
great :hammerhead:

haha its impossible to learn things online, guess im heading to the local seed store for a sit-down talk. basically im trying to figure out when to dethatch/aerate/weed-feed/overseed etc.
 

DiyDave

LawnSite Bronze Member
Location
Gambrills, MD
Well, you asked for opinion, I supplied same. Here is a statement from your article: Applying preemergent herbicides (see Tip #6) should be done sometime between the time the local forsythia bushes stop blooming and the time the local lilac bushes begin blooming Truth is, you should be done applying the older pre-emergents, like pendimethalin, by then( forscythia bloom). Some of the newer pre-emergents can be applied up to the 3 leaf stage of growth in crabgrass. This article, IMHO is just a cut and paste of older info, widely available on the 'net. Do you own research, but he is right, in that fall is the best time to aerate, overseed, or powerseed. I can't put a lifetime of experience into a short answer, so keep asking questions, grasshopper, its how you learn!:waving:
 
OP
B

blakerugg

LawnSite Senior Member
welllll if you have a minute or two..... :rolleyes:

heres a copy and paste from another thread i started.

"i live in RI and have the regular bluegrass/rye/fescue mix. every time i try and start a thread about this i end up butchering it and losing my paitience and starting a new one lol.

basically, the lawn at my house is in rough shape. i have some bare spots, some spots that are weedy, and some spots that moss has slowly taken over. basically i want to do everything i possibly can (without killing the entire lawn and starting over) this year to get it looking good.

I need help developing a schedule and plan to do so. Heres what i THINK i should include:

-dethatching
-aerating
-ph test/lime
-fertilizer (pre-emergent, post-emergent? i dont know!! lol)
-overseeding (won't it contradict with weed control?)

so i really need to know when to do what and what to use...

when do i start and what order do i do it in? what fertilizers do i use when?

in case you didnt notice i dont know anything about actual turf care lol"
 

DiyDave

LawnSite Bronze Member
Location
Gambrills, MD
welllll if you have a minute or two..... :rolleyes:

heres a copy and paste from another thread i started.

"i live in RI and have the regular bluegrass/rye/fescue mix. every time i try and start a thread about this i end up butchering it and losing my paitience and starting a new one lol.

basically, the lawn at my house is in rough shape. i have some bare spots, some spots that are weedy, and some spots that moss has slowly taken over. basically i want to do everything i possibly can (without killing the entire lawn and starting over) this year to get it looking good.

I need help developing a schedule and plan to do so. Heres what i THINK i should include:

-dethatching
-aerating
-ph test/lime
-fertilizer (pre-emergent, post-emergent? i dont know!! lol)
-overseeding (won't it contradict with weed control?)

so i really need to know when to do what and what to use...

when do i start and what order do i do it in? what fertilizers do i use when?

in case you didnt notice i dont know anything about actual turf care lol"
I live and work in MD, so beginning with that preface, I will address the 4 salient questions. My answers are based on 4 year degree in general agriculture, University of MD, + 20+ years installing and renovating lawns here. If there is argument re region of the country, I leave that to others to bring it up.

Dethatching: Does not need to be done on any grass, except bluegrass, as most others in your area don't produce thatch. If done, it is best accomplished with a rented, hydraulically driven renovator unit, like the Lesco renovator 20, which has a seed box to drop seed, at the same time. Or a Using a tractor mounted unit, again, with a seedbox. You do it in the fall, because you are not competing with crabgrass, at all, in the fall(late aug-early sept). You know it( crabgrass) will die with the first frost.

Aerating: Numerous types of aerator exist. The only 2 that I still have are a core aerator, that uses open spoons, and will punch through compaction and thatch, and a larger tractor mounted shattertine aerator, which is more of a water infiltration unit, that will penetrate to 4-5", to allow water to percolate faster into the ground, decreasing runoff. Aeration is done in the fall for the same reason listed above, in dethatching.

pH test/lime: Any time of the year. This is done for knowledge. Knowing the pH is knowing whether you are wasting fertilizer.

Fertilizer: most of the desirable grasses need about 1/2-1 lb of actual N per month per 1,ooo square feet (MSF) (Though not in the late spring, when temps start to rise). One quick hit of fert + pre emergent in early spring is all you really need. If you put too much out, its worse, than not enough. Pre emergent is weed control that attacks germinating grass seeds, as they germinate, or slightly after. You don't want long term Pre-m products applied, if you are going to seed in early fall. Go with a short term like pendimethalin, and apply it early, before forscythia thinks about turning yellow in the spring.
In the fall, if you are seeding, put out a starter fert, like 18-24-12, when you seed, again, at a rate of 1/2-1 lb N/MSF. In MD, we hit with a slow release N, at the same rate of actual N/MSF, 2 more times, about a month apart, ending N application at the end of October. Remember the old adage, Fertilize in the fall for roots, in the spring for shoots. Another thing to remember is to calibrate your fertilizer spreader to the product you are using, high N fertilizers need less applied, than starter fertilizers.


Broad leaf weed control: Done with a sprayer, in the spring, in conjunction with pre-m application. If you are seeding, don't apply b-leaf weed control, as most conventional forms of b-leaf weed control act on germinating grass seed too.

Overseeding: Done in fall, gives you the most bang for the buck. Cooler temps, with warm soil, makes it germinate better than the other way around in spring.
Don't take this as the gospel, get a book on the subject, like a textbook from a state university's turf management class. Experience is worth more than education, but education establishes the base line.:waving:
 
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