tie rod end

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by grass disaster, Dec 20, 2006.

  1. grass disaster

    grass disaster LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,775

    had the front tires changed today.

    212000 miles oldsmobile

    one of the tie rods is bad.

    should i replace both of them?? do i need to get it realigned if i replace just one of them???

    believe it or not i have never had it aligned and it drives straighter than an arrow.
  2. Mic_bug

    Mic_bug LawnSite Member
    from N.B. MI
    Messages: 201

    yes ans yes...unless ou have stock in a tire company
  3. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,029

    As Mic_bug said, I would suggest replacing both together rather than having to replace the other shortly down the road. Also get the alignment afterwords. It's next to impossible to get the new ones in the same place as the old ones so you will notice tire wear.

    If this is rack-n-pinion make sure it's not the inner joint inside the rack.
  4. grass disaster

    grass disaster LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,775

    do they align the back at all.

    i notices that the inside(s) of the back tires was wore down alot more that i thought.
    they actually had a wash board affect going on. what could cause this????
  5. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,029

    Could be a alignment problem if it is adjustable (You didn't state year or model). If it's non-adjustable it's most likely weak springs with that kind of mileage.
  6. grass disaster

    grass disaster LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,775

    cutlass supreme. 2 door

    i had the rear struts replaced about 30-40k ago.
  7. steve45

    steve45 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,325

    The older Cutlass's had a composite rear spring that would change shape with age. The rear end would sit higher with age. This may affect the rear wheel alignment.

    I'd replace both tie rods at the same time with this much mileage. IF you do it yourself, you can count the number of turns for each end, then put the new ones in the same amount. This will get you close. Next, sight down the inside edges of the front tires, looking toward the back tires. Adjust the rod ends until you can see about an inch of the back tires. This will give you a slight tow-in setting. When the vehicle is driven, drag from the tires will take slack out of the linkage and give you approximately zero toe-in. The best way to measure toe is with a scuff gauge, but they are hard to find these days.

    Have you looked at the rod ends on the opposite end of the tie rods? How about the idler arm & Pittman arm?
  8. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,029

    If you had the struts replaced they are adjustable (Still no year) and it should have had a alignment after they were replaced, I installed air struts on my Father's 89 Buick La Sabra then had it re-aligned.

    Agree steve ^^^^^^, So eye ballin will get you close enough to get to a shop but not close enough for long tire life.
  9. grass disaster

    grass disaster LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,775

  10. olyman

    olyman LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,649

    well gents--to tell the truth--ive replaced more than one tie rod end--and rack and pinions--and have never sent anyone for an alignment---why????????? because before i replace the tie rod--i pic a spot-in just ways front the tie rod--on the smooth part--and make a mark--on the side the same as where the grease zerk was--or the center of the tie rod ball part--as close as possible---and set the new one in to the same distance---from the center of the grease zerk--- works every time--and when replacing a full rack--measure--from grease zerk to grease zerk--and set the new rack to the same distance----one gent said wouldnt work--said when im done--take to alignment then--he did--they said it was right on-----he spent 45 plus time plus gas for no reason---but--to each his own---

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