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To all Scag Cheetah owners

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing Equipment' started by WilsonBoud, Aug 10, 2013.

  1. WilsonBoud

    WilsonBoud LawnSite Member
    Messages: 232

    I'm not sure about the other Scag Mower models, but the Cheetah owners manual calls for removing the small metal plugs on the front of the two front caster wheel housing, and install a zerk for the purpose of greasing, then remove the zerk and replace the two small metal plugs.

    The only reason I can see doing this is so the zerks won't be subjected to any material that might tend to break off the zerks while mowing. For me it's a once a year job.

    To the rest of you:

    Do you follow the manual's instructions, or do you leave the grease zerk in place once the greasing is done...???

    :usflag: *trucewhiteflag* :usflag:
  2. stoneseller

    stoneseller LawnSite Member
    from MD Z7
    Messages: 84

    Grease fitting stays in place always on my past Wildcat, & now on Turf Tiger.
    I'm the only one who runs my machinery, so damage to the fitting is very unlikely.
    Probably just as important, I know how to lube equipment properly.

    I always wipe the zirk after lubing, & before next application. No dirt gets inside following this simple routine.
  3. Rockysquirrel

    Rockysquirrel LawnSite Member
    from SE PA
    Messages: 24

    I know that the Tiger Cat is the same. You need to remove the plug (bolt), part number 482028-01, and install a grease zerk in order to grease the caster wheel pivot. The zerk fittings cost less than $1.00 each. If Scag does not install them for fear that they will be broken off during everyday use, why don't they give you one or two of them in a bag with the manuals?

    The question I have is do you have to remove the grease cap 481559 before greasing and if so what is the best way to remove it? The Tiger Cat manual mentions using a special Scag tool 47007 for the installation but nothing for the removal. It looks like a large socket placed over the grease cap would work fine for the installation though.
  4. Moose's Mowing

    Moose's Mowing LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 452

    The wildcat and tiger cat say to do the same thing. I put zero fittings in and left them. I greased my front casters last week actually and I thought to myself that there seemed to be a lot of pressure in those casters. It was pretty hard to pump a few squirts of grease in there. I also looked at the grease cap and briefly wondered why no grease was coming out anywhere. It's almost like they're semi-sealed and the caps need to come off to allow fresh grease to go in and old grease to come out. I didn't give it enough thought to even mess with it. It was just a fleeting thought as I was greasing. Hope that all made sense cause my wife got me a 6 pack of good beer tonight :)

    I'd be interested to know about this tho.
  5. weaver

    weaver LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,393

    Don't have a cheetah, but my Exmark was the same way. I just removed the plugs & installed grease zerks & left them.. On my mower it says to remove the top cap and grease once a season.
  6. WilsonBoud

    WilsonBoud LawnSite Member
    Messages: 232

    OK...... I just called my dealer (salesman), and was told that applied zerks for greasing the front Castor can be left there permanently, unless you have serious branch issues that might threaten the grease zerks.

    I was also told that the cap on the top of the Castor housing should be removed before applying grease, and can be removed with a small blade screwdriver (used carefully), and to use a small wooden block to gently tap the cover back evenly in place.

    Sounds like something I can do.......LOL..

    :usflag: *trucewhiteflag* :usflag:
  7. Moose's Mowing

    Moose's Mowing LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 452

    good to know, thanks

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