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To late for tall fescue?

Discussion in 'Starting a Lawn Care Business' started by LeviEdge, Aug 4, 2007.

  1. LeviEdge

    LeviEdge LawnSite Member
    Messages: 11

    I've got to plant grass on a few spots that have recently been dug up and I'm wondering if it's to late in the season to be planting tall fescue. Will the roots have enough time to develop before it turns cold or would I be better off planting something else? The yard isn't all that nice and it's got atleast three different kinds of grass so I was going to overseed the entire yard and I 'm just wanting to know if I'll be wasting my time with the fescue.
  2. Runner

    Runner LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,497

    Take this to the renovation forum, and you will get more answers. I wish I could help you, but I am not up on southern regions.
  3. cgaengineer

    cgaengineer LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 15,778

    Wait until Late September or Early October to plant...if now you will struggle to water. I am not saying it cant be done, but it will be easier in these months.

    FIRESCOOBY LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 986

    I wouldn't say too late...more like too early. I'd wait at least until September.
  5. LeviEdge

    LeviEdge LawnSite Member
    Messages: 11

    thanks for the info.
  6. muddstopper

    muddstopper LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,341

    Levi, I am not to far north of you. Like most everybody here has already said, wait about another month and you will be in prime fescue planting season. Personally, I have been planting new lawns with tall fescue all summer. Watering and fungus are the biggest obsticals in establishing fescues in the hot weather. When its real hot and humid, I cut N use in half to help reduce the fungus and reduce seed kill from N conversions to ammonium gasses. The seed doesnt need the fertilizer to germinate anyways, and fertilizer use can actually slow germination and cause seed kill. I also up the seed rate to help with any seed that does die off. Altho I do mainly hydroseeding, I switch to straw mulches instead of the hydromulches because of the cooling effect the straw has on the soil. With watering, I sort of go against the grain on this advise in that I recommend deep watering at night instead of several light waterings during the day. My personal beliefs are that the ground can absorb more of the moisture with late evening watering and it reduces the humidity around the seed during the day when it can dry out. Fungus seems to be less of an issue with this method, but not everybody is going to agree with that statement. Once the seed has germinated, light frequent waterings does seem to work best, but you have to get the seed to germinate first. With overseeding, the exsisting grass will help provide shade and have a cooling effect on the soil, but is also another reason to reduce N applications. That grass thats already there will take advantage of all that fertilizer and really take off and can actually cause the old grass to choke out the newly planted seed. I suggest that you wait until your new seedings have a chance to germinate before applying any fert to the area. Keep the mower set at around 3inches and dont be afraid to mow when the lawn needs it. If the mower is set high and the blades are sharp, the new seedlings will hold up to the mowing traffic.
  7. cgaengineer

    cgaengineer LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 15,778

    Great advice muddstopper...my hydroseed guy said to water in the evening also.
  8. LeviEdge

    LeviEdge LawnSite Member
    Messages: 11

    I really appreciate all of the advice. You guys have helped me out alot. Thanks.

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