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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any of you ever put down compost a few weeks prior to aeration and over-seeding?

I wondered if there would be any benefit to doing this a 2-3 weeks before aerating, slice seeding and then topdressing again. Mainly for yards that have poor soil (i.e. clay or soil with little OM) and need some amending.

Just curious.
 

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Can't have too much compost.

Letting a layer of compost work on the soil for a few weeks may make plugging easier, especially on a low OM clay.
Then putting more into the holes afterwards will get the action deeper in the soil.
 

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Depending on the size of the lawn, topdressing twice in one season could take some deep pockets. That's a good thing if it is a customer who wants the best looking yard on the block and doesn't care what it costs. What you're proposing would work, and my intuition tells me it would be more effective than one application that would be equal in quantity to the two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Great. Thanks for all the feedback.

I have about 3 sites like this that were renovated last fall and seeded but never did come up strong. And yes I failed to add any OM to them last fall. I did bring in good quality sifted topsoil but after the roots got past the new topsoil and hit the poor subsoil the fescue faded pretty quickly in early summer.

I'll give this a try and see what how it works. I'll also try to post some pics of these yards before and after.
 

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If you can spray compost tea while the cores are still open and after you have overseeded it great. It is rare that we are able to get compost tea literally down into the soil. It will coat the seed as well and make a healthy stand of turf.

What you should try on one yard is pre germinated seed in compost tea. Stick the seed in a bucket with compost tea and an air bubbler for 12 hours, then take it out and let it dry, then go spread it. Throw the leftover tea on your garden

BANG instant lawn, you will be amazed, it works REALLY well especially for KBG that can take a month to germinate, do 2 or 3 rounds of soak and dry, apply to lawn and water BANG instant KBG lawn. Fescues and ryes you can usually only do it once because they germinate so quickly

The issue with KBG taking so long to germinate is that it usually gets washed away by a couple big thunderstorms or all ends up in one corner of the yard
 

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sorry our turf is your weed...............
I must say though, I just got back from florida and that is one good looking weed when it makes a turf. It seems like even the plots that didn't look like they had any treatments done that they looked just as green, is this the case of St. Aug or is it just me? Then again, the "weed" that we have here stays green no matter what... maybe that is one of the benefits of having turf made of weeds?
 

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BANG instant lawn, you will be amazed, it works REALLY well especially for KBG that can take a month to germinate, do 2 or 3 rounds of soak and dry, apply to lawn and water BANG instant KBG lawn. Fescues and ryes you can usually only do it once because they germinate so quickly

The issue with KBG taking so long to germinate is that it usually gets washed away by a couple big thunderstorms or all ends up in one corner of the yard
Bill-

Can you elaborate on this procedure? I will be overseeding/composting this fall, and we use a KBG/Fescue blend. I will be doing about 1 1/2 to 2 acres so I'd love any procedure that will cut down the KBG germination time.

Everybody on these forums talks about the importance of water,water,water after seeding or overseeding. That's great if you are doing a small area or have irrigation. For those of use who are seeding large areas without irrigation, watering is impossible. We are totally reliant on Mother Nature!
 

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Dooger there is no water source on the property? Germination relys on consistant water. If you had water, you could rig hose sprinkler system to get established and then rely on M.N. for water. I wouldn't seed unless I had a way to water it.
 

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Unless you get the product where it needs to be (root system), you're pissing in the wind. Mechanical aeration/slit seeding, etc is the only logical way to go. Keep in mind --there are NO "miracle" prducts -- especially if you just lay 'em on top of some guy's lawn...then hoping the Good Fairy will visit you.
 

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“Plugging” or core aeration is intended to alleviate compaction. It is an ideal time to add amendments after this process. The theory is the amendments (compost) have a direct path to the root zone of grass. I am not certain to the claims of beneficial microorganisms being released to the surface from the plugs. Is the survival rate that high from ultraviolet exposure? “Slitting” is intended for over-seeding. The flails/blades do not penetrate the surface as the plugger allowing the seeds to remain in place and germinate.
 

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BANG instant lawn, you will be amazed, it works REALLY well especially for KBG that can take a month to germinate, do 2 or 3 rounds of soak and dry, apply to lawn and water BANG instant KBG lawn. Fescues and ryes you can usually only do it once because they germinate so quickly

The issue with KBG taking so long to germinate is that it usually gets washed away by a couple big thunderstorms or all ends up in one corner of the yard
Bill-

Can you elaborate on this procedure? I will be overseeding/composting this fall, and we use a KBG/Fescue blend. I will be doing about 1 1/2 to 2 acres so I'd love any procedure that will cut down the KBG germination time.

Everybody on these forums talks about the importance of water,water,water after seeding or overseeding. That's great if you are doing a small area or have irrigation. For those of use who are seeding large areas without irrigation, watering is impossible. We are totally reliant on Mother Nature!
 

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I would never seed a yard without water - 4 x a day 11am, 2 PM, 4 pm and 6 pm - 10 min cycles (heat of the day - this is when the seed dries out) - keep the seed moist not wet. For large properties make sure the homeowner knows that without water (irregation or rain) it will not come up to meet anyones standards. You can straw it (helps - but I would not do it), but really I would walk away from this business. I actually have a print out with the hoses, timers and sprinkler that I REQUIRE the homeowner buy if they do not have an irregation system - that's right I require it or I walk away - I have a reputation to uphold! I get results because I know what it takes - not because of luck or IF it rains. Rain or no rain I get full lush yards of grass.

Compost top dressing works GREAT (REALLY GREAT - LIKE THE ULTIMATE) in our area. Just a dusting of compost over a slice seed job works - unbelievably well. We are talking even a 1/3 to 1/2 yard per 1000 sf. Many other soil ammendments need to be added - like mycorrhizae (ICT Hydroseed has it) to insure you get proper root development over the winter. Top dressing is tough if you don't have a tool (hydroseeder or topdressing machine) to do it you need to use a wheel barrel (that tilts), lawn rake and blower.
 

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Can't have too much compost.

Letting a layer of compost work on the soil for a few weeks may make plugging easier, especially on a low OM clay.
Then putting more into the holes afterwards will get the action deeper in the soil.
I put down new sod in a lawn last fall. When we arrived at the property the soil look dead. No color almost gray in color. I said we need to bring in some top soil or compost, but the homeowner was very excited to have a instant lawn. I said ok and hoped for the best. Looked great last fall and even better this spring. Looks like s#$T now. Very light green and thin. We have been mowing and he has been doing the chems and water and it has just lost it. I wanted to put down spagham peet moss or compost now. The plug it in a few weeks. Then slit seed a week later. A lot of work yes. Does this sound like a good idea? Should I get a soil test?
 

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ICT Bill-

Hope you'll respond to my post about more info about soaking grass seed with CT. We've all been taught to keep planted grass seed constantly moist until germination, never let it dry out. How does your procedure work if we're letting the KBG dry out 2-3 times?? Won't that effectively kill the seed?
 

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54 basically you just wet it and let it set for a while some folks use a tea or some roundup to help pre germinate there seeds, some do it in the bags and others have a elaborate system of tanks and cooling systems with aeration. long and short you will need to get the enzyme off the out side of the seed and get it wet and keep it wet for a while to get a head start. the way i have seen it done was a large tank with air stones and they just poked holes in the bags and let them sit in the water with some special additives. bills tea will work great as a pre treat and it will also help to get the benefitals going from the start.
 
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