Toro 44" #30111

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by john gov., Mar 26, 2005.

  1. john gov.

    john gov. LawnSite Member
    Messages: 13

    I figure there must be a bearing worn out on my center pulley. I have removed the four bolts that hold the assembly together, the blade retaining nut, and the top nut. I still can't pull it apart. Before I buthcher it can someone tell me what I missed.
    Thanks in advance for any help on this.
    John Gov.
  2. topsites

    topsites LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 21,653

    Ok, I have a 48" fix-deck Toro and if yours is a floatdeck there maybe similarities and differences, dunno.
    I replaced both the center and outer-right ball-bearings to the BLADE-spindles / blade- axles. The left one I paid to have it done but it costs 80 dollars labor and once you get good at it, 2 hours does the job BUT the first time took me 8 or 10 hours and I had to have some help because the job fairly boggled my mind.
    Some things of note:
    I have 6 nuts + bolts that hold the assembly to the deck, but yours may be a float-deck, things are different? First thing I hear say is do not remove the assembly but take off blade and pulley ...
    In my case, the assembly AND pulley are made of like titanium or some other hard but brittle metal - beat on that with a hammer and you will crack or break the part (I did, the first time - thou it got the pulley off, lol). So after I bought a new pulley then I had to figure out a way to beat on the inner bearings without hurting or touching the assembly/pulley.

    First thing I did is spray the whole thing with lube/wd-40/rust-remover or similar and chill for 5-10 minutes and I sprayed the assembly several more times during the procedure as the axle-shaft and bearings are REALLY stuck in there. I never did my float-deck, so I dunno if they're as stubborn.

    There are about a dozen things on the fix-deck that if you do not remember, you will get skru'd. One such thing is a hexbolt on the side of the pulley, it secures a 3/16" key to keep the outer axle-shaft from spinning inside the assembly (dunno if is same on float-deck, but check for little hex-bolt(s) anyway). You will also need a new key, I bought a foot of 3/16 key stock at NAPA, then grind off the small part you need (+ supplies for next time).
    Another thing is I did not remove the assembly from the deck but remove the outer bladeaxle-shaft by beating on it with a socket (it will ruin the socket) and a big hammer until it plops out underneath BUT you may not have that, dunno ... Reason is the deck keeps the assembly in place for you, then once axle-shaft is out I removed the nuts/bolts and headed over to the vise.

    Then I beat like mad on the bearings and even got a bigger hammer but 30 minutes later I was no further ahead ... The one thing stumped me was a circlip, a round clip about 2-inches in diameter for which you need a special tool (looks kinda like scissors but has two prongs at end) thou you might can try it with a screwdriver, getting it back on will be almost impossible without the clip tool. Anyway, check for that special clip at either end of the bearings. This needs to be removed, heh.
    Once I got that out, I still had to beat on the inner race with a 1/2" socket extension and a big hammer for a bit, thou it slowly came out.
    I might also note I made extensive use of that BIG table-mounted vise, while being careful NOT to clamp the titanium assembly too tightly. Most the time I just snugged it so it wouldn't fly away. After the bottom bearing was out, there was a separator, and then the top bearing was easy in comparison.

    To put the new bearings back in:
    First I took a clean rag and sprayed it vigorously with wd-40. I then took the rag and first coated the outer races of the new bearings with lube. Next I took the rag and meticulously cleaned out the inside of the assembly, which also coated this with lube.
    I tried using a block of wood to pop them back in but the fit is too tight and the wood just splinters, so then for the top-bearing I got an old mowblade for a flat surface, put the bearing in place on top of the assembly (held by the vise) put the old blade on top of the bearing, then hit the blade with a hammer. Beating gently at first and pay special attention that it goes in evenly, if it gets a little uneven you can compensate for that by beating on the high side (keep the old blade in between hammer and bearing). And only beat as hard as you need to, if it goes in real slow - Perfect ! Oh yeah, lol - make SURE you put the bearing in facing correctly, please. I do not know how to remove a bearing without ruining it, hate to see a new bearing seated wrong-way around. Ok so this seated the top bearing nicely but the bottom bearing (in my case) is recessed and the blade-trick does not work.
    So I took one of the old bearings and with a screwdriver, a hammer and a couple metal punches dissasembled the old bearing, took about 10-15 minutes. Threw the balls and crap away BUT kept the outer race!
    Then I used the outer race of the old bearing to seat the new bearing PLUS the old blade on top it all, plus hammer. Now you have to be careful you can only go so far or you will seat the old race partially as well, it is recessed that much! Once I got the new bearing to the point I could go no further, I again used the 1/2" socket extension and carefully beat on various points of the outer race of the new bearing with extension + hammer. Phew!

    Back to the mower, I hand-screwed the assembly back onto the deck.
    Then I grabbed the wd-40 soaked rag again and cleaned the axle-shaft and INSIDE of the pulley with it, then took axle-shaft and while the deck was being held by a jackstand, slid it in from underneath. Now comes more fun, the shaft kept wanting to slide out.
    So I took the long blade-bolt and pushed it through and then placed a hydraulic jack under the blade-bolt as I lowered the entire deck onto that, this kept the crap from sliding back out as the deck was pushing the blade-bolt onto the hydra-jack.
    Now grab the pulley and make sure to align the key-marks on the axle-shaft and beat on it *lightly* to get it started. The blade-bolt SHOULD be pushing through everything but I had to beat things a little more until the top of the thread JUST came out the top of the whole assembly enough where I could get a washer and 4-5 turns of the nut on. Then I pulled the hydra-jack out and put the jackstand back in place to hold the deck up.
    Next, I used an air-powered impact-wrench on top AND a socket+wrench underneath and with an easy trigger-finger and low-torque setting slowly popped the nut on down the blade-bolt which compresses the shaft back into the pulley.
    You could, in the absence of air, use two socket-wrenches or a BIG nasty hand-wrench but you will likely need an extension (or two) and I might recommend 1/2" drive for the socket as well. This might take a little longer but is probably easier on the blade-bolt - The air-impact method has a nasty habit of partially stripping the blade-bolt (yes, I need a new one), but it sure was nice to just trigger it all together.
    Once the axle-shaft is seated, remove the blade-bolt again. You now need to finish tightening the 6 (or 4) nuts/bolts to tighten up the assembly and ensure it really IS seated by attempting to move everything up-and-down and sideways. If there is play, you need to fix that.
    If it does not move, then insert the key and re-tighten the hexbolt. Check the entire assembly one more time, there should be NO play. Now you can put the blade on the bolt, pop-pop-pop the nut, you're done.
    Test the mower by starting it and running LOW rpm as you either:
    Engage the blades hydraulically and watch and listen!
    Or slowly engage the blades manually with the lever while watching and listening.
    If everything seems ok, turn up the throttle slow and easy and keep watching and listening until you get full throttle, then let it run for 5-10 minutes while you clean up tools, etc.

    Fun, fun, fun - 3 hours, second time.
  3. john gov.

    john gov. LawnSite Member
    Messages: 13

    Sounds like you had some fun replacing your bearings. I thank you for your detailed and entertaining response. Only sad thing is once I start with the hammer things just always seem to go bad. I'll have to wait until I feel up to a loss before going back out to the shed with my hammer; got a little time before that mower has to be running.
    John Gov.
  4. john gov.

    john gov. LawnSite Member
    Messages: 13

    I got the pulley assembly out and found the top bearing was blown out but now the race is left in there and I can't get that out. Nobody seems to have a puller that's small enough and strong enough to get it. I put a large amount of heat to the housing and went at it with a 9 pound hammer and chisel. Didn't do a thing. Can't seem to get the bottom housing off either. I was ready to buy a complete new pulley assembly but they are not available as an assembly. I got to think on this some more.

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