Toro z master help

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by TazLandscapes, Jul 27, 2009.

  1. TazLandscapes

    TazLandscapes LawnSite Member
    Messages: 157

    ive done everything to this damn machine possible.I dont know how to check for voltage at the ignition switch.All it does when i turn the key on is click. but if i move the levers up or down the click either gets louder click or it clicks lower. so i bought a new relay and i moved them around but got nothing so i am gonna buy a new one for the neutral relay.i cleaned out the starter and put a new battery in do i go about checking all of these things that you have told me.

  2. chesterlawn

    chesterlawn LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 704

    Just trying to guess, that couldn't have caused to clutch to freeze up in the enguaged position could it? Or screwd up the pto switch.
  3. TazLandscapes

    TazLandscapes LawnSite Member
    Messages: 157

    i was wondering how i should check the voltage on the ignition switch and what should it read.And how do i go about checking the ignition coil.Or should i just replace the ignition coil.Iam getting frustrated with this machine its been in my garage for four months and its aggravating me right now.
  4. VegetiveSteam

    VegetiveSteam LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 296

    Sometimes you just can't fix them over the Internet. Sounds like it's time to take it to one of them there repair shops.
  5. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,029


    The above test shows there is ample voltage being supplied to the ignition switch and out of the ignition switch to the starter solenoid, Therefore unless there were signs of rust/corrosion on the "B" post on the switch or discoloration to the plastic backing on the switch I'd venture to say the ignition switch is working properly.

    Just for giggles, Turn the switch to the run position. With the seat switch still jumped, Put the control levers in neutral and apply the parking brake. Un-plug the small spade wire from the starter solenoid, Now use a screwdriver and jump across the BIG battery post on the solenoid to this small spade wire connector on the solenoid and see if the unit will crank over and start.

    As VegetiveSteam said, Sometimes these overly elaborate safety interlok systems can't be diagnosed over the air and even in front of a tech can still take quite some time in testing to diagnose.

    It's a shame your not closer where I could get my hands on it......
  6. TazLandscapes

    TazLandscapes LawnSite Member
    Messages: 157

    Restrorob i did what you said and i tried jumping the starter like you said. I did it about 3 times and the starter was turning over.the third time i almost had the mower turned on.should i look at hetting a new ignition switch first off and then should i look at the ignition module.

  7. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,029

    Elaborate here a little Mike, Did you almost have it cranked up and running ?

    Did you have it throttled up a little and the choke applied as you would any other time you crank it up ?

    I wanted to see if it would start and run by jumping the starter.....
  8. TazLandscapes

    TazLandscapes LawnSite Member
    Messages: 157

    When i jumped the starter i could hear it spinning inside the starter housing the third time i hit it with the screwdriver.It turned over like it was going to start up.
  9. ricky86

    ricky86 LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,139

    Try R/R advice again (exactly) but try putting a small amount of fuel in the carb (maybe a tablespoon) before cranking. Put the a/f back on in case of backfire. Reason being, maybe the fuel is getting a little old. If it fires off, I can help with a schematic of the start circuit. You will need a multi-meter. A test light won't cut it. Sounds like you might have multiple problems.
  10. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,029

    Even though the starter worked fine off the unit but did the above on the unit jumping the same way you did when it was off leads me to believe you have intermittent problems with the starter. Possibly a worn plastic shift fork, I've had two the last month come is with this fork worn and Kohler doesn't list it as a replaceable part.

    The fact that your getting 12 volts to the starter from the small spade wire on the solenoid with the key in the start position further confirms there is most likely a starter issue.

    Do you have another unit with the same starter you can swap to this one for test purposes ?

    If I remember you said this unit's been sitting 4 mos. ? If so I agree with ricky86 on the bad fuel and possibly other issues, You have a start circuit and a engine run circuit. Once the start circuit is repaired and working then the run circuit can be tested and repaired if needed.....

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