Trailer problem

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by DMS, Feb 4, 2002.

  1. DMS

    DMS LawnSite Member
    Messages: 22

    I am currently running (1) 52" Dixon ZTR and (1) 42" Dixon ZTR and I am having a problem with the deck catching where the gate meets the trailer bed. My former trailer was a 6.5'X12" utility with a 4' custom gate. I just sold it and am looking for a trailer where I won't have the problem with the deck catching. Right now I am considering getting a 16' tandem axle open trailer with a 2' or 3' dovetail and a 3' or 4' gate. Can anyone point me in the right direction.
  2. cajuncutter

    cajuncutter LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 626

    I would think a 4 foot gate would be plenty if you got a dovetail. I do not own a dixon I have a shortcut with a 52 inch deck. The only time I have that same problem is if I either have low tires or I forget to put my deck in transport position. Other than that I have no problems. I also run a 15 inch rim and the exact tire size I do not know but the tires I would guess are average in height. I do see some 16 footers with 16 inch rims and very tall 8 or 10 ply tires. I know I would have problems if I had that setup. Sounds like you are headed in the right direction if you are getting a dovetail. Good luck!!!
  3. Dove tail may not be the answer and a costly desision.

    You need to look at the tounge height first.

    The tounge should be higher than the back of the trailer.

    This will change the angle of the gate drasticly.

    1" of the incorrect tounge height can make you catch.

    This thread should have the answers

    A 16' trailer with a 4' gate will do just fine when set up properly.
  4. A landscaper trailer is about too low already to dovetail.
    Long ramps keep mowers from dragging.
    Plus they are easier to climb.

    Usually you can order 6' long ramps for no added charge.
    Just cut them in half and joint them with a pipe hinge.
    It's suspended with chain, so it rides up and over obstacles.

    The key to making it work is the little support legs on the last section.
    It keeps the ramps from buckling down when loading.

    Ramp support legs are unpopular on dovetails.
    Because on a dovetail the weight of the loaded trailer is transferred to the support legs and they get stuck.
    With this set up, when the trailer is loaded, there is no weight on the ramps but their own weight.
    They're never stuck.

    A dovetail trailer costs you about 2' of deck space.
    This doesn't.
    I designed this in '91 and have refined it since that time.
    It works great.

    I was going to patent it, and still have the "packet" of info to start the patent process.
    It's about an inch thick!

    This one I built is very heavy duty, but my Toro 580-D weighs 6,600#.
    It would work just as well or better out of lighter materials.
    Yours would have to look better too! LOL

    It's not a dovetail, it's a Scorpion Tail trailer.

    ramps, up.jpg

    SCAPEASAURUSREX LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 835

    Never heard it called a dove tail before ?? Thats' a term form fancy joinery of wood ..

    Anyhow.... Look into car trailers.... I got an 18' Haulmark enclosed car trailer that has a beavertail slope in back... Never have any problems getting over the joints... and its such a slight slope you dont really even notice it.... I have seen open car trailers too that have the beaver tail, but they usually have open centers and little or no sides, So it would have to be heavily modified to work.... Dont think there is a cheap solution... Do it right the first time and you wont regret it down the road...

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