Transporting shrubs/plants

Discussion in 'Landscape Architecture and Design' started by alpine692003, Jun 25, 2004.

  1. alpine692003

    alpine692003 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,502

    What do you guys think is the best idea on how to transport shrubs/plants to another location? I've never done this before but my regular customer told me she wants these 4 cedars moved to another location! They were planted about in MAY so the roots are still new I guess?

    Then there's another tree that has been there for a while, like a few years...

    What's the best procedure for transporting them? Should you do it when it's in fall? What should I watch out for? What can I or shoudn't I dO?!?!?

    :confused: :cool:
  2. GrazerZ

    GrazerZ LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 670

    If they are small enough, dig and move. If they are large, you'll have to ball the roots and burlap. whatever you do get your hands on some ROOTS 4-4-4 I think its called. tried this stuff when moving two 10' junipers about two years ago and did'nt even get any tip browning. We also will sometimes throw in the planting hole some soil moist around this time of the year.
  3. Loganwildman

    Loganwildman LawnSite Member
    Messages: 60

    Do you guys cover your plants when transporting? I've heard they can really dry out if you don't
  4. royallandscaper

    royallandscaper LawnSite Member
    Messages: 5

    Depending on how large the new cedars are and who planted them they should still have the burlap around them and should also still be in the cage which would make them very easy to transplant.
    With the older tree just make sure you get as large of a rootball as you can and I agree with the other post, use ROOT. I would suggest waiting until fall.

    To answer the other post, it's always a good idea to tarp any plants during transporting.

  5. Ice_Gargoylle

    Ice_Gargoylle LawnSite Member
    from indiana
    Messages: 60

    within 1-1.5 years planted you can just dig and replant. older stuff is much different.

    good rule to go buy, always trim or thin out or cut back some growth when transplanting anything, dig your hole before you transplant, water RIGHT after planting.
  6. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,969


    Anytime you can keep wind burn off your plants when transporting them is better. Milorganite is the best starter fertilizer because it does not burn roots and root hormones are also a big help.

    The big trick in transplanting is knowing the plants root structure. Size of the root ball will make or break a transplant.
  7. alpine692003

    alpine692003 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,502

    Ya ...

    1) The cedars that are planted like approx 2 months ago, they are okay to transport and should have burlap still wrapped around them. (Burlap decomposes I assume?)
    - so i dig around them, assuming they are still in burlap then dig the area I want and just plant these cedars in?

    - just in case, what happens if the burlap is not around the cedar? What should I do? Go out and buy burlap and wrap the cedar and plant them in the new area with the burlap I guess?

    2) I dont know what shrub it is, but its like 6-8ft high. It's a flowering shrub..
    - I guess I do the same as I mentioned?

    So I dig the area I want to replant them, put some starter plant fert in, then put the shrubs in? Is this the idea?

    Thanks guys
  8. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,969


    The first and most important thing you need to do is learn the names of the plants you are dealing with. Once you have the name (even if it is only the common name) you can research that plant for any thing you want to know about it. Botanical names of the plant are better for researching it on the web for free.
  9. D Felix

    D Felix LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,898

    Fertilizer is probably not a good idea, even if it's a low combination like 4-4-4. Fertilizer pushes new growth, which increases the demand for water, which is not good for anything transplanted. If you feel it is necessary to fertilize, use something that has no or very low amounts of nitrogen, and higher amounts of phosphorus. Phosphorus helps to stimulate root growth.

    There was a thread in the last week or two on transplanting a weeping spruce, check out that thread for more info on transplanting. I gave a fairly detailed description on how to transplant large(r) plants there.

    FWIW, I've transplanted many things in the past with no tip browning, and none of it had fertilizer incorporated when it was re-planted. I transplanted a 9-10' weeping Norway about 2 months ago, and saw it late last week. Not a single tip was browned.... Fertilizer really doesn't do much for the plant in the first year after planting anyway, so it's pretty much a waste of time, money and energy to use it when planting....

    Oh, and for tarping- It's a really BAD idea to NOT tarp a load, be it plants or mulch. Plants will get wind burn if they are not tarped, and will look like crap by the time you get to the job. Mulch will blow off of the truck/trailer and get you a leaky load ticket. Trust me on that one, I've had it happen..........

  10. PattiD

    PattiD LawnSite Member
    Messages: 7

    Do they still make anti-transpirants like Wilt-Pruf (basically seems like an Elmer's Glue-like film sprayed on the plant to reduce the respiration rate.) Do y'all think that might be of help?

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