troy built

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by fishnetman, Jan 19, 2004.

  1. fishnetman

    fishnetman LawnSite Member
    Messages: 33

    anyone ever use a troy-built 33"walk behind,or know anything about them.
  2. 65hoss

    65hoss LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,360

    Some of the older ones were pretty reliable. Not the best mower out there, but it will get the job done on small stuff.
  3. Lawn Dog2001

    Lawn Dog2001 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,032

    Ive owned two of them. They are great mowers to start out with, but they are not commercial. There will be some downtime on these machines.

    However they do cut well. I personally think my Troybilt 33s were the best mulching walkbehinds I ever owned(and I use only Exmark now so thats saying something).

    Some problems I had were constant drive belt slipage. The Vbelts used on the drive system and blade engament system are not heavy duty, so expect to replace them often. The spindles are not commercial quality and will wear out faster than a commercial unit.

    All that being said, they are not a bad machine to start out with. Please keep in mind I havent used one of these in almost 5 years. So I have no idea what kind of product improvements have been made.

    If you have any questions about these machines dont hesitate to PM me. The ones I had I tore apart and put back together so many times, I could probably build you one from scratch. :D
  4. craglawnmanor

    craglawnmanor LawnSite Member
    Messages: 136

    I bought one new in spring of 1994. It had an 8.5 HP Briggs I/C engine, and overall worked really well. The cut was excellent.
    Used it on some VERY hilly terrain, the only problem I had was dealing with the open differential......power went to the wheel with the least resistance, which wasn't always a good thing.
    I agree with Lawn Dog about belt slippage and replacement.
    Not a commercial piece of equipment, but it was adequate for the price. I haven't looked at one in a few years, so I don't know about the current models.
  5. mbricker

    mbricker LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 505

    I've owned 3. First one ran about 1400-1600 hours, engine pretty well shot, during that time replaced belts and caster wheels and idler pulleys, nothing major. Never had to replace spindles or bearings, they had grease fittings which I lubed about every 30-50 hrs. No hour meter, I just guessed.

    Second Troy was nearly totaled when lady ran into my parked trailer and truck, had a year on it, probably 300-400 hours. Had already replaced spindle bearings, and a couple of v-belts. This mower didn't have grease fittings on the spindles--don't talk to me about sealed-for-life bearings!

    Have had third Troy since mid-June and probably have 200-250 hours on it. If I've done anything to it, I can't remember it.

    No it's not commercial duty. I keep buying them because I have to have something that size and have to keep changing the cutting height because I mow different types of lawns. I priced Husquavarna wb's today and to get easily adjustable cutting height was going to run $4800. Troy cost me $1400 including sales tax. I figure if I'm getting 4 years out of them, like the first one, I'm not getting hurt.

    However, Troy-bilt went bankrupt and was bought out by MTD. I do not see any quality difference or construction difference in the new one from the first one. That might well change.

    They give decent cut, bag or mulch pretty well. Will handle slopes, but transaxle is just simple differential type, not independent power to each wheel. You have to hold it by muscle power to steer straight across a steep slope. No pressure lube, so I won't run on slope as steep as I did my first one.

    During slack time in next month or so I will repair the wrecked Troy, and probably sell it. Frame and handlebars were main damage, should straighten ok, new parts where needed. Deck did not take hit, neither did engine. Anyone interested in buying?
  6. twwlawn

    twwlawn LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 283

    I own two. The 1996 mdoel has the 8.5 B&S on it with 1731 hours on it, still going strong. Proper maintenance done, they will go. I have gone thru alot of belts, one spindle, tons of blades, one set of front casters, replaced drive tires once. Great mulching mower at 2.5 - 3 inch cutting height. The second one, 2002 with the 9 B&S with 378 hours on it. Changed out belts twice. Got the bagger for it. Bags and sucks up great at 3" - 3.5" height. Cutting higher than 3.5" you have blow out and does not suck up as well.
    These will be back up mowers this season, got a commerical mower, spring growth here is something else. PM me if you have any questions. Best of luck.
  7. mh1314

    mh1314 LawnSite Member
    from Texas
    Messages: 133

    If anybody is interested I came across a guy in Missouri that bought 30 units New Old Stock and is selling then for $950 plus shipping. Discounts on multiple units. PM me for e-mail address
  8. fishnetman

    fishnetman LawnSite Member
    Messages: 33

    do you think an eXmark metro 32 would be better option,how much more do they cost.
  9. 65hoss

    65hoss LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,360

    Yes, they are comm'l grade mowers. They cut great.
  10. Jason Rose

    Jason Rose LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,858

    Hey look at that, there ARE other people on here that LIKE the Troy Bilt 33" mowers. I have had one from about the beggining of my lawn service, like 1996. I finally sold it and traded in another one I bought used as a back-up last spring and got a new one. I can honestly say this machine was used and abused and I only replaced the drive blet once, the blade drive belt once and finally before I sold it I replaced the cog-timing belt on the blades as it was slipping. The Blades on the unit suck in my opinion, so I went on a quest to find some that had higher lift so I could bag better. I found that 36" blades for a Bunton walkbehind are the right legnth and amount of lift I needed, but the hole is round instead of, well, oval (i dunno exactly what kinda shape that hole is, round with 2 flat sides). I took a die grinder with a carbide rasp to the bunton blade holes and made them the same shape as the stock Troy blades. THIS IS AN AWESOME MULCHING, BLOWING, AND BAGGING MACHINE NOW. I can mulch through tall and thick and get very little grass left laying on top. Also with the stock blades I would always get a strip right in the center that would lay over and not cut well in thin grass or if i was running in 4th gear. With these bunton blades I rarely ever have the machine in any gear other than 4th.

    I heard someone say their drive belt slipped alot. The fix there is simple, undo the linkage from the drive handle, loosten the nut on it at the bottom and give it a turn clockwise. put the linkage back in the hole and pull on the drive lever, it should be tight feeling about a half inch from the handle.

    Any other questions about the machine, I could probably answer 'em. I will defend my Troy Bilt to the death here!

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