truck design reveiw. hooklift/cargobox

Discussion in 'Trucks and Trailers' started by P.Services, Aug 10, 2008.

  1. P.Services

    P.Services LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,319

    before i go off and start to buy parts to build the truck i figure i will ask for opinions if it will work or not....

    im looking to buy a c7500 box truck (see link) and then remove the box. this will leave me with the bare frame and cab.

    then im going to have a 10' long enclosed box built (just like a little enclosed trailer but no axles) and mount it behind the cab. the box is going to serve as a tool box and have a bench seat to haul extra workers.

    behind the enclosed box im going to mount a stellar hook lift that will hold 14' bodies. im going to use a hook because i was told it doesn't need to hang over the rear axle as much as a roll off.

    so the truck chassis will have 10' of enclosed box and then 14' of hook frame making a total of about 24'-25' of frame needed behind the cab. im not looking to make this a heavy hauler truck, the most i want to have it haul is my ct332 track loader witch weights 13,000lbs. the truck will be like etw's and rockwater's but have a much longer box and be a hook.

    THE QUESTION----- Is the weight going to be to far back on the truck and make it ride very light in the front end making it unsafe to drive loaded?

    i know it will get light pulling a loaded body onto the truck but thats ok.

    link to a example of the starting truck.
  2. P.Services

    P.Services LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,319

    bump. no thoughts???
  3. BrandonV

    BrandonV LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,553

    let me just suggest one thing... rethink the c7500. though I love mine I've never had something so expensive fall apart so quickly.
    Two of my 4 doors don't open from the outside
    it squeaks
    paint is comming off the roof along the gutter area
    I've had fix a leak in the AC where a hose clamp rubbed through the aluminum piping (not a cheap fix)
    I've had to fix the electric window buttons in the rear doors
    front tires weren't mounted true and had to be replaced at 45k miles
    ALL THIS and it only has 50k miles on it! I have trucks w/ 100k miles on them that have held togather better than this, and this truck is "designed" to last for 500k eaisly! I learnt my lesson, the next time around I'm thinking pete or KW, sure this is a great looking truck but for the $$ they cost I'd expect them to hold together a little better.
  4. P.Services

    P.Services LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,319

    thanks alot for the reply, i have really thought about that and to be honest im looking at a c7500 only because its the cheap route, i can get one used for about 10 grand and then sell the flat bed and lift gate off it for 2 grand. my original plan was to use a pete 335 but i really dont have the cash for that. im trying to get this truck done for under $25,000.

    i bet in five years after all the money i sink into repairs i will be saying "dam i wish i woulda just bought a real truck and saved all that time and money"

    but then again i put 70k highway miles on a gmc c7500 8.1 gasser with no problems at all. hmmmm
  5. BrandonV

    BrandonV LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,553

    I think so, it will depend ironically on which motor it has. My c7500 has a cat and even though its a flat bed, the cat motor + the eaton fuller tranny make it heavier than my f750 w/ a 12" contractor dump that has a cummins and a allison auto... heavier by 1200lbs, which is a good help to counterweight all that you're going to have on the rear tires. Also you need to think about loading that hooklift, as a person who has had his front end off the ground more than one (tree spade) it's a un-nerving feeling.
  6. P.Services

    P.Services LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,319

    yeah im really worried about how its gona run down the road. my old boss with the 7500 gasser has a 26' deck on his truck, i was going to ask him if i can put my ct332 on the ass end of his truck with two big concrete blocks (to act as the hook and flatbed weight) and then drive it and see how "light" the front is. my other option is to add a air lift axle behind the rear, this would solve all my problems but i wanted to keep this truck under 26kgvw so anyone could drive it.
  7. BrandonV

    BrandonV LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,553

    or a hyd jack or something on the rear i've seen a lot of vans w/ something of those sorts, just for loading/unloading no axle = no gvw
  8. P.Services

    P.Services LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,319

    or even just a manual jack, the type that extends out and locks into place with a pin and then you crank it up. i could get within a inch or two with the ajustible pin and the rest the truck would sag.

    that problem is easy to solve, the road worthy is the real question. if the front is to light it wont steer or stop.
  9. BrandonV

    BrandonV LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,553

    only problem w/ keeping it 26k is that if the truck weight 15k (easy w/ the hooklift) and the loader is 13 you're already at 28k. mine is rated at 33k but I use it for towing.
  10. Gravel Rat

    Gravel Rat LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 9,544

    I sent you a PM the other day.

    Anyhow your going to have problems with a wheelbase that long and that much overhang with a single axle rolloff. I would go with a wheelbase designed for the hooklift and use belly boxes for storage.

    The GMC trucks are okay they are not as good as a Paccar truck. I would look for a International if your looking for something for a cheaper price.

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