Google 'Richard B. Choate', his "Turf Irrigation Manual" is a must for anyone starting out.
Ditto, it is also rather archaic, but pound for pound, it's a great primer.it is a good book if you can stay awake.
I wonder if Carson and Ametek have special factories in Texas to manufacture 4" pit boxes? Leave it to the Texans to use a 4"! :dizzy:Stupid stuff like 2 valves shoved into a 4" valve box
Russ is doing damn good good with our 521 wand and your unit; we took your advice and went to my splice box with the Maxi cable and he found it. Put the toner on it and got it, sent him 24-volts from my portable transformer and proved it. The only odd thing, was his v.o.m. showed .33 amps, where our RM was showing it going the other way; never had that happen. :dizzy:how hard a find?
O.K., the RM clock reads amps, when we see a solenoid get down in the low twenties, we flag it for replacement. Are you tracking? When Russ put his v.o.m. on the solenoid in question, with field wires removed, he got 33 OHMs, which would indicate a good solenoid. However, we've found a cold solenoid will show readings in the 20-60 ohm range, which is within normal parameters, then heat-up and cause our RM to indicate failing solenoid. Testing a cold solenoid for ohms has proved to be a not good indication of the condition. We trust a $5,000.00 RM clock to tell us what's happening, but the issue of "cold" solenoids is what all tech guys should be aware of.somehow i'm in the friggin twilight zone here, i'm reading amps and ohms and bits and pieces of posts..........give this a minute
All solenoids are water cooled, but if the solenoid gets hot, the water cooling is moot and the fry begins.what doesn't make sense is the solenoid is actually water cooled, isn't it? never been around wm's before
It's a gift, and we are licensed to hijack. Glad things are going well for you.Quick update....first I must say that you guys are pretty good at going off on tangents and bunny trails lol.