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Turf Tracer HP Drive Belt - Help Changing

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by Darryl G, Jun 4, 2005.

  1. Darryl G

    Darryl G Inactive
    Messages: 9,500

    Well, it looks like it's time to change the belt for the hydro drive system on my 2002 Turf Tracer HP with about 400 hours on it. It doesn't look like the kind of thing I want to do out in the field. I changed the one on my Lazer HP earlier this spring, but the Turf Tracer is set up different, since it has the manual blade clutch.

    So I was wondering if someone could give me a list of what I need to do, hopefully in the right order, and any pointers for making the job easier. I'm no mechanical genius, but it's the sort of thing I'd like to do myself. And I don't want to just start taking things apart without a service manual.

    Do I need to take the three stacked pulleys off, or is there a way to sneak the new belt in there after taking the other two belts off and the PTO arm thingy, which is obviously in the way?

    Any help would be appreciated.


  2. topsites

    topsites LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 21,653

  3. nov141992

    nov141992 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 19

    I also have a Turf Tracer Hp and have wondered how to change the hydro drive belt. I have the Exmark owner's manual but it doesn't give any procedure on how to replace it. It sure doesn't look easy.

    Daryll have you figured it out? if so please let us know. If any one else can answer Daryl's original question please do. 400 hours seems early to be needing to replace it, how frequently have others had to replace it?


  4. Darryl G

    Darryl G Inactive
    Messages: 9,500

    Nope, haven't figured it out yet...it's still holding together.
  5. Premo Services

    Premo Services LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,516

    I had to replace my pump belt this spring. It is a pain in the Azz to do but I e-mailed exmark service techs on their site and they emailed me directions on how to do the procedure.

    Here it is.... straight from eXmark tech dept


    TOOLS REQUIRED: 1 - ½” and 2 - 9/16” END WRENCHES
    3/8” RATCHET, ½ and 9/16 SOCKET
    Small Vise Grip

    1. Position the unit in the area it will be worked on.
    2. Raise the unit 4 - 6 inches off the floor and secure using two jack stands.
    3. Remove the spark plug wire or wires.
    4. Remove the front deck belt shield.
    5. Remove the deck drive belt from the cutter deck sheaves.
    6. Remove the deck drive belt from the clutching arm sheave and position it below the brake drum.
    7. Remove the clutching belt from the engine sheave, this will allow the clutching arm to be pivoted towards the rear of the engine deck, giving you the necessary gap to remove the deck drive belt between the brake band and the brake drum.
    8. Engage the cold start kit.
    9. Make sure the blade engagement arm is in the engaged position and remove the clutching belt over the top of the clutching belt sheave, then slide the belt between the sheave and the pump drive idler arm spring.
    10. Remove the 3/8 whizlock nut and flat washer from the blade engagement bellcrank, under the left rear corner of the engine deck. This needs to be removed, and the bolt pulled out flush with the arm, to give clearance for the pump belt to be removed from the left side pump pulley.
    11. Remove the 5/16 x 1 HHCS retaining the clutching arm pivot pin, under the right rear corner of the engine deck, and remove the pin which allows the clutching arm to be lowered, until it rests on the skid plate.
    12. With the cold start kit still engaged, remove the belt from the right rear pump sheave and the engine sheave.
    13. Disengage the cold start kit and secure the chain so that the split ring can be removed from the chain. Note which link it is secured to and then carefully release the chain, allowing it to come through the engine deck.
    14. With the two 9/16 end wrenches, loosen the nut on the top side of the engine deck, that secures the pump drive idler arm to the engine deck, until the nut is flush with the top of the bolt.

    TDS 974
    Page 2

    15. Note the routing of the belt and you should now be able to remove the pump drive belt over the top side of the idler pulley.
    16. Install the new belt around the engine sheave and the right side pump sheave, make sure the belt is on the inside of the belt guide at the engine sheave. Run the cold start kit chain back through the hole on the right side of the engine deck, make sure the pump drive spring is in place, then pull the chain outward as far as it will go and secure the chain using a vise grip or by some other method. Install the split ring onto the link it was previously removed from.
    17. Retighten the pump drive idler arm bolt and position the belt on the left side pump sheave. Release the cold start kit and check to be sure the belt is properly routed and on the inside of the belt guide. Make sure the cold start kit functions correctly.
    18. Reinstall the clutching arm pin, making sure it is properly installed into the upper guide plate, and secure with the 5/16 x 1” HHCS.
    19. Reinstall the nut and flat washer on the engagement arm bellcrank.
    20. Engage the cold start kit.
    21. Reinstall the clutching belt, leaving it off the engine sheave until after you’ve reinstalled the deck drive belt.
    22. Release the cold start kit.
    23. With the blade engagement lever in the engaged position, slip the deck drive belt between the brake band and brake drum, and then between the brake drum and the skid plate. It will be necessary to disengage the blade engagement lever to slip the belt between the brake drum and the rear portion of the skid plate, to get the belt into the sheave.
    24. Install the clutching belt onto the engine sheave.
    25. Route the deck drive belt around the cutter deck sheaves, referencing the belt routing decal, if necessary, making sure the belt is in the clutching arm sheave after installation. Reinstall the cutter deck belt shield.
    26. Reconnect the spark plug wire or wires.
    27. Remove the units from the jack stands and test run the unit.
  6. Darryl G

    Darryl G Inactive
    Messages: 9,500

    Well it's time to change it again...or maybe still. The funny thing is that I don't remember every doing it back in 2005 when I wrote my original message...I don't think it could have lasted this long and still not broken.

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