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Udor Kappa 15/12 Pump Leaking... Please help!!!

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by designerlawns, May 3, 2011.

  1. designerlawns

    designerlawns LawnSite Member
    Messages: 10

    Could really use some help please!!! We have an Udor Kappa 15/12V diaphragm pump used to spray lawns that leaks from the pump body (I believe). Even when it is not turned on... there is a steady leak now. Diaphragms do not appear cracked. I have been researching this online for 2 days & can find no info about leaks, so any assistance is greatly appreciated!!! Thanks...
  2. designerlawns

    designerlawns LawnSite Member
    Messages: 10

    Dang!!! 2 weeks... 65 views... but no one has any advice??? I have searched other posts & know u all r very smart, so PLEASE help a poor girl out!!!

    Update... took the pump apart, cleaned, inspected for damage, changed oil, replaced all diaphragms and o-rings, & torqued bolts to specifications. Just put it all back together today & the second I hook hoses up & let water flow... it friggin still leaks from the same spot?!?! Seems to leak from top backside of where the left pump head attaches to the pump body, & it is a pretty steady leak. I am lost & frustrated... any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!

    Thank so much...
  3. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,551

    So sorry Designer,
    wish I could help you. I have experience with Hypro, not Udor.
    I do have two suggestions; if the case is aluminum, sometimes corrosion eats away until the O-rings do not seat properly. Difficult to cure, of course. Fatter o-rings? Double O-rings? Build up weak area with epoxy? Silicone sealer?

    Or the case itself could have a thin spot. With luck some silicone or RTU sealer might cure this, (Epoxy putty might solve this also.) Check all the flat surfaces to make sure they are flat and seal aroundth diaphrgms. Check all o-ring grooves to be sure they are intact and contiguous.
    Don't give up. This may take some persistance.
  4. designerlawns

    designerlawns LawnSite Member
    Messages: 10

    Thanks Riggle!!! much appreciated & this gives me a few more things to look for. pump is aluminum... will definitely check all o-ring areas again. that is where i was thinking the problems is but I thought changing them all would solve the problem. I won't give up... I am way too obsessed now!!! lol...

    One other question... generally speaking. the bolts that screw the heads on the pump body, should they be snug in the non-threaded holes of the head??? I know they will screw in tight to the pump body but some screws are snug & have 2b screwed thru the head hole while some will just drop completely thru it???

    thanks again!!! :drinkup:
  5. Falcon50EX

    Falcon50EX LawnSite Senior Member
    from GA
    Messages: 994

    How much is the pump to replace first?

    Is it leaking from the mating surfaces?

    Did it freeze over winter?

    RTV will work but you may never get it apart again.

    The corrosion idea is a good one just a little white film / powder on the groves is the start of corrosion.

    If you take the mating surfaces to a machine shop they can tell you if the surfaces are truly flat. you will have a hard time with this because you probably do not have a surface that is truly flat to gage it my.

    Do not double up on the O rings.

    Have you tried to call the manufacture?
  6. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,551

    Designer, I suspect your suspicions are correct. No, the non-threaded holes should not be snug. The bolts should drop through, and not be stopped by corrosion. Such binding may prevent tight mateing of the surfaces. Have those holes drilled out or drill them out. New bolts may help (easier) if the old are coated with corrosion.
  7. ted putnam

    ted putnam LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,671

    I have a UDOR RO-70...not a 12v. I have had to replace head before because of hairline crack that did not start at an edge It took me a while to figure out where it was leaking from. The aluminum heads on mine are rubberized and this makes finding damage sometimes difficult.
  8. designerlawns

    designerlawns LawnSite Member
    Messages: 10

    Pump is about $400 to replace... I am just really stubborn & determined to figure out the problem if I can. I hate to give up, unless I truly have to.

    Pump was recently given to us but had antifreeze in it during winter so I assume it did not freeze. As best as I can tell, it is leaking from btwn the mating surfaces. Looks to be back top of left pump head where there is an o-ring & also bolt. Prob bc of the o-rings not properly sealed or bc the surfaces are not coming together perfectly.

    this Kappa 15 also has aluminum heads that are rubberized... so yes, it is very hard to see any damage. if there is any little crack anywhere does that automatically mean pump is done???

    also... what cleaning solutions do you use to cleans ur pumps???

    Thank you all so much for the info & ideas of where to look for problems. Took the day off 2day from working on pump to clear my head & will jump back in tmrw!!!
  9. ted putnam

    ted putnam LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,671

    No, it will mean that particular part(usually the head) is done. A head for mine was about $130. The pump is around $900 I believe. If I bought my pump part by part it would cost me about $4000. SUX
  10. SmartLawnCare

    SmartLawnCare LawnSite Member
    Messages: 17

    Did you ever find the leak? And what cleaning solutions would anyone out there suggest, especially for the crankcase?

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