Using Exmark/Toro for curative fungicide treatments.

Marine03112

LawnSite Silver Member
I have never used fungicides ever. I was always told that there a waste of money for a homeowners lawn, as you would need to make several trips in a month to get control. Well as the last two years shown, disease is becoming a problem in Northeastern PA, and Southeast PA. Dollar spot, Brown Patch, Pink Patch, and last season Pythium blight. I am reconsidering whether I should offer it, or what i can use as a curative to stop an outbreak and save a client. So Guys spraying at .38 or .50 per thousand how do you all do it? I would offer fungicides if i was confident that it would get good results. On another note i do sell a ton of aeration's due to fungus damage. SO please i would love to get some guidance here. I really hate how some of my lawns look. I have heard this product does well. https://www.ictorganics.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/products.productDetail/productID/6/index.htm

Also my salesman likes using Eagle.
 

lawndude28

LawnSite Senior Member
I do it low volume and haven't had much problems. The agitator in the Toro helps, but fungicides have a tendency to stink. have to do 3 treatments 3-4 weeks apart. Make sure the customer knows it suppresses fungus but that doesn't mean they won't have any. I run ppz, and t-storm.
 

jlbf0786

LawnSite Senior Member
Location
Charlotte, NC
I have never used fungicides ever. I was always told that there a waste of money for a homeowners lawn, as you would need to make several trips in a month to get control. Well as the last two years shown, disease is becoming a problem in Northeastern PA, and Southeast PA. Dollar spot, Brown Patch, Pink Patch, and last season Pythium blight. I am reconsidering whether I should offer it, or what i can use as a curative to stop an outbreak and save a client. So Guys spraying at .38 or .50 per thousand how do you all do it? I would offer fungicides if i was confident that it would get good results. On another note i do sell a ton of aeration's due to fungus damage. SO please i would love to get some guidance here. I really hate how some of my lawns look. I have heard this product does well. https://www.ictorganics.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/products.productDetail/productID/6/index.htm

Also my salesman likes using Eagle.

I use alot of propaconizole for prevention. It seems to work and costs a good bit less than the alternatives.
 
OP
Marine03112

Marine03112

LawnSite Silver Member
I do it low volume and haven't had much problems. The agitator in the Toro helps, but fungicides have a tendency to stink. have to do 3 treatments 3-4 weeks apart. Make sure the customer knows it suppresses fungus but that doesn't mean they won't have any. I run ppz, and t-storm.
What tips are you running? Whites? Or blues?
 

oqueoque

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Jersey
Ha
I have never used fungicides ever. I was always told that there a waste of money for a homeowners lawn, as you would need to make several trips in a month to get control. Well as the last two years shown, disease is becoming a problem in Northeastern PA, and Southeast PA. Dollar spot, Brown Patch, Pink Patch, and last season Pythium blight. I am reconsidering whether I should offer it, or what i can use as a curative to stop an outbreak and save a client. So Guys spraying at .38 or .50 per thousand how do you all do it? I would offer fungicides if i was confident that it would get good results. On another note i do sell a ton of aeration's due to fungus damage. SO please i would love to get some guidance here. I really hate how some of my lawns look. I have heard this product does well. https://www.ictorganics.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/products.productDetail/productID/6/index.htm

Also my salesman likes using Eagle.
Have looked into granular Headway G, Heritage G, or Cleary's 3336 ?
Always wondered how much aerators spread disease from lawn to lawn, if the soil is not removed from the aerator between jobs? And would it need to be sterilized also? I've never did either to the aerator.
 

RigglePLC

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Grand Rapids MI
Warm humid nights, cause a lot of fungus infections and spread. Warm night rains--bad news.
Likewise--avoid low cost seed, which is not disease-resistant. Over seed with disease resistant seed where possible. Not usually possible with zoysia.
Do what you can to reduce average humidity--and promote prompt drying after rain or sprinkling. Avoid watering every day. Water before 3 pm so grass never goes to bed wet. Or, water early in the morning when the grass is already wet with dew.
Particularly for brown patch in southern lawns--avoid nitrogen during hot weather. Stay with mainly spring and fall.
 
OP
Marine03112

Marine03112

LawnSite Silver Member
Ha


Have looked into granular Headway G, Heritage G, or Cleary's 3336 ?
Always wondered how much aerators spread disease from lawn to lawn, if the soil is not removed from the aerator between jobs? And would it need to be sterilized also? I've never did either to the aerator.
ya i keep forgetting about granular material for fungicides. Thanks for reminding me. Brown Patch is starting to rear its ugly head atm. also for my summer apps going to use 18.0.6 50 percent xcu with three percent iron. Iron i have seen has helped with fungus.
 

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