Using permeable base under nonpermeable pavers

Discussion in 'Hardscaping' started by YardscapesNEPA, Feb 14, 2018.

  1. YardscapesNEPA

    YardscapesNEPA LawnSite Member
    Messages: 5

    What are you guys thinking about what Unilock has been promoting at their contractor workshops? Is this the new way of doing it or are you guys staying with the tried and true 3/4 minus and sand base? I'm thinking about starting to try it and see how it works. It makes sense, just wondering what other peoples opinions are?
     
  2. sven1277

    sven1277 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 698

    We've been doing it for about 3 years now also at the recommendation of unilock. Really like it. Haven't had any adverse effects from it. Extra cost of material is offset by the reduced compaction labor and piece of mind with higher compaction rates.
     
  3. TColemanP

    TColemanP LawnSite Member
    Messages: 63

    We do what they recommend as well. No issues thus far. Plus our rep completely stands behind their recommendations so if we had an issue I’m confident they would compensate us for it.
     
  4. YardscapesNEPA

    YardscapesNEPA LawnSite Member
    Messages: 5

    Are you guys still using 7,000 compactors with this system? We're running a Wacker 3050 reversible in 2" lifts, is it still necessary to achieve proper compaction?

    Also are you still using standard plastic edge restraints? Are they holding in the 3/4 clear?
     
  5. sven1277

    sven1277 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 698

    We have that plate also. We'll run it over 6-8". No need to run it over 2" with that size plate .For edge restraints, try using 24" #4 rebar .Use the spoke driver attachment in a Rotary hammer
     
    hort101 likes this.
  6. PLLandscape

    PLLandscape LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,593

    I've been seeing and reading this myself. Just some curiosity questions for anyone using the "new" method of clean stone for traditional paver installation.

    So they call for an open graded 3/4" base stone with a 1/8"-1/4" bedding layer. That bedding layer is replacing the sand from what I understand.

    - Are the voids in the 3/4" base large enough for the bedding layer to "fall through" over time or no?

    - With traditional paver methods the bedding sand worked its way up between the voids of the pavers during compaction. With a more coarse open graded bedding layer do you loose that effect? Are you just filling sand from the top down now? Do you use regular bedding sand to fill in some and then poly?

    Just trying to wrap my brain around this because I like this new install procedure for pavers but want to make sure I get it right.

    Thanks for any responses.
     
  7. CorridorLawnCare

    CorridorLawnCare LawnSite Member
    Messages: 120

    @sven1277 @YardscapesNEPA I have also seen people move to troweling a concrete edge with this new system as well, have you ever tried that? Worried about cracking, but 12" spikes also don't hold nearly as well in the clean stone...
     
  8. sven1277

    sven1277 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 698

    We've done a couple of things. Wrapped geogrid around the plastic edging so it extends under the pavers, using the paver weight to hold it in place. You can't saw cut in place with this method, however. Another option is using 2' rebar instead of the normal spikes. You can buy a driver bit that mounts in a Rotary hammer to ease the work
     
    hort101 likes this.
  9. Mitty87

    Mitty87 LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,130

    Anyone know where the best explanation of this method can be found online?
     
  10. Captain Armortec

    Captain Armortec LawnSite Member
    Messages: 21

    I know this method has been kicked around in ICPI committees but my understanding no endorsement of it has been approved.

    What is the perceived cost/structural advantage of this method versus ASTM2940 road base + sand?
     

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