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Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by weeze, Jan 17, 2012.
found info i needed here:
my stihl br600 and the kawi fx engines the valves get out of adjustment pretty quickly. it's only been about 100hrs on my stihl and they were loose. it's been 200hrs on the kawi and they are loose.
my honda trimmers and pushmower i checked after 10 years for the first time and they were still perfectly in adjustment.
i guess noone else can figure it out as good as honda when it comes to engines.
next mower i get will have a kohler engine and then that will be the end of valve adjustments.
if only honda would make ztr engines and blowers. then we'd live in a perfect world.
Don't know if it's big enough for you......
yeah i've seen those. they are a little underpowered and i don't think they are full on commercial engines. maybe they are i dunno. doesn't look like it if you look at the air filter.
it is the GX series so maybe it is commercial. it's 22.3hp. the kawi i have now is only 23.5hp so not a huge difference. maybe i'll replace the kawi with the honda when the time comes if it's possible to even fit it on my mower. problem is that honda is horizontal shaft. i need a vertical shaft.
what i meant is mowers should come with honda engines on them when they are new or at least have that as an option. a 34hp commercial honda mower engine would be killer!
i found this one but it's only 20hp.
I have never had a valve cover off any Kawasaki engine I own, one has over 1300 hours on it.
i know on the older ones we never did the valves. they were on tractor mowers though.
the one i have now bent a pushrod at 299hrs. they said it was because the valves were out of adjustment. it was replaced for free under warranty though.
i checked the clearance on mine and it was at about .005" on each valve. it's supposed to be from .002" to .004" so they were all a tad loose.
to be honest i think these newer kawi engines are pieces of crap. it's like they are built in china or something. the oil drain thing is rediculous. made of plastic. it's loose already and they said you have to remove the motor to replace it. it's still working but barely. also the oil fill tube is plastic and justs sits down inside the engine block with 1 o-ring to keep oil from coming out. my guess it's only a matter of time before one day oil will start squirting out from the base of the filler tube. one of the tabs on the fan cover broke off in the first season of use.
they just dont' seem to be well made to me. i'm sure the insides are ok but everything else completely sucks.
My 16 hp with 1300 hours has excessive end play and the starter is starting to clash. Im going to tear it down and hopefully I can just get buy with a 110$ lower case. Your right, I think these engines should last at least 2500hours. I have never had dirty oil in my engine.
What I liked about it was that it comes with a cast iron sleeve.
This is the thing I don't under stand........ How much horse power do you really need ? Here is the thing, we have 5 exmark lazers that have 3 different engines.
A ch25, @ 25 HP... a ch740 @ 27 HP and a fx 801 @ 29 HP. All on 60 inch units.
Is there some kind of mathematical formula with the alphabet thrown in that says you need "x" amount of HP ?
I think that would be great if they would have the Honda as an option ( ya hear that Exmark ) If I had my way, there would never be a B&S or a large Kawasaki
on any of our equipment....It make me cringe when I see our newest GV leaf loader with the B&S......Time will tell.
yeah i dunno about the hp and they keep changing the ratings every year so who really knows? my kawi is 26hp but on the newer models it's labeled as 23.5hp. it's the same engine.
my next mower i'm gonna go with a kohler engine. they seem to do better on gas than a kawi and you don't have to adjust the valves.
i think they all last about the same length of time. kawi, kohler, B&S vanguard, etc.
With air cooled engines, the expansion and contraction in the run/stop cycle is much greater than in a liquid cooled engine.
My experience with A/C engines ranges from VWs to lawnmowers. With VWs, adjust valve every oil change, and use straight weight 30 oil. No ifs, ands, or buts.
It could not hurt to CHECK the valves. Then if they need adjustment, you could bring the valves into spec regardless of mfgr guidelines.
Adjusting valves [if there is a fairly simple lock nut/bolt] is fairly simple. So, why not adjust valves, regardless of mfgr recommendations?
Also, with the leaning of the mix [for emissions] the cooling capacity of the engine to coolitself is diminished. So shortened CHECK intervals would not be out of line.
We used to rely on rich A/F mix to help cool engine. Can't afford that now.