valve supposed to have a slow drip?

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by Ed G, Oct 14, 2006.

  1. Ed G

    Ed G LawnSite Member
    Messages: 140

    After installing valve manifolds to main line, I turned the water on to check for leaks in main line connections.

    There is a slow drip coming out of the output side of four of the seven valves I installed. These are Hunter PGV Jar Top valves (1" thd).

    This normal? Couple of them continue to drip even when the water is shut off.

  2. Flow Control

    Flow Control LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,267

  3. Ed G

    Ed G LawnSite Member
    Messages: 140

    Good one!

    Seriously, Is this normal? I would to set the valve boxes and nearly finish this job today.
  4. SprinklerGuy

    SprinklerGuy LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,778

    Not normal....but it does happen to me alot also.

    Open them manually with the solenoid and flush out whatever grit got in there....should stop.

    Put your hand over the end of the valve or you will get muddy....and open the solenoid slowly and it won't jump will slowly open.....good luck.
  5. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,496

    As Tony has already stated, not normal Ed. Your valves are experiencing "weep-by" most likely from sand/debris that didn't get totally washed out of the main line. Flush them out good and they should stop weeping.
  6. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,794

    I never use the solinoid to flush a valve, because you tend to move the sand particles from the diaphram up into the solinoid.

    Instead I use the manual bleed if the valve is equiped. I also like the Rainbird DVF series for their screened solinoids and captured plunger.

    I want some pictures Ed, its a boring saturday.
  7. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,496

    On any type of retro project where the main line has been compromised upstream we always flush the main line out before continuing it or setting valves. Sometimes we have to construct a "blow-out" device out of scrap pipe but it's well worth having a clean main line to start setting valves on.

    We always COMPLETELY flush each zone before installing nozzles. One major error I constantly run into on our large contracted zones is lack of adequate zone flushing. Contractors will turn on the valve and assume that all the heads are adequately flushed. Problem is that with no nozzles in place large zones will adequately be flushed in the heads nearest to the valve but not downstream because too much water is escaping all heads, reducing pressure. We will then install nozzles on heads nearest the valve and then re-flush the zone working down to the farthest heads from the valve. On extremely large zones we might have to do this 3-4 times to adequately flush the zone. But... It guarantees that no nozzles will be clogged.
  8. jeffinsgf

    jeffinsgf LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 641

    Do you have the bleed valves closed all the way? May be too simple a solution, but no one else had asked yet.
  9. NC_Irrigator

    NC_Irrigator LawnSite Bronze Member
    from NC
    Messages: 1,445

    Are you and i the only ones that are flush freaks? ha I see pipe burrs and trash on these other guys work lots!
  10. jerryrwm

    jerryrwm LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,274


    What kind of valves are you using? The solenoid and exhaust port are 'above' the diaphragm as is the bleed screw port.

    The exhaust port under the solenoid goes to the downstream side of the valve and that is where the sand and debris gets into the solenoid port. Think about it. When opening a valve for servicing, how much debris do you see on top of the diaphragm? None if the diaphragm is not ripped or deteriorated.

    Just a clarification of operation.

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