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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished measuring the exact fuel usage on a 72" Scag TT II equipped with a 40 hp Vanguard EFI/ETC engine.

These are the exact numbers: 8.7 gals ÷ 6 hrs = 1.45 gph

I found this amazing for that size engine. I actually looked for it to be in the 1.6 to 1.7 gph range based on all reports I've received from 72" mowers with the 37 hp Vanguard EFI engine. Evidently the electronic throttle control is helping more than I would have believed.

This is a new engine which is honestly not broken in, but supposedly has Vanguard full synthetic 5W-30 oil, of which I believe can also help with fuel usage.
 

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With my Ferris 3300 EFI 40 hp 61" I'm getting 1.6 hrs/gl. This was from tanks run dry and adding 5 gl exactly. My computation was 9.7 hrs @ 15 gallons. Looks like we're pretty close. I'm cutting moderate heavy fescue and some weeds, eastern KS. Had around 30-50 hours on motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I bet the numbers come down even a little more once it reaches 100 or so hours. Almost all engines do regardless of brand or type of oil in them. I could happily live with those numbers just as they are though.
I worked the engine hard, no easy cutting. You are right, for the amount of grass cut with those numbers, if it never changed, I would consider that number great.

The engine has not used a drop of oil that I can see.
 

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Are you getting more used to the difference in feel etc. when on the new machine?

I believe the Scag's come with the front baffle set in the middle position, which IIRC, leaves the cutting edges of the blades right at, or slightly above the lip on the baffles. I would try raising it one notch and see if the stragglers disappear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Are you getting more used to the difference in feel etc. when on the new machine?

I believe the Scag's come with the front baffle set in the middle position, which IIRC, leaves the cutting edges of the blades right at, or slightly above the lip on the baffles. I would try raising it one notch and see if the stragglers disappear.
I've heard operators speak about using anti-vibration gloves to help relieve soreness associated with running a mower. I noticed tired hands today, and I've never had this happen when operating a HyperDrive, or regular Super Z. The steering on the Scag takes more effort to operate than does the Hustler. My wife can handle the 1600 lb HyperDrive with no problem, I believe the Scag would be difficult for her to drive, and lifting the deck virtually impossible.

I need to check and see if there is any way to make the deck easier to lift. I believe the steering dampeners can be adjusted for easier movement of the steering levers, need to look at the manual.

You definitely get more accustomed to a different operating machine with time. Sorta of like that old adage of putting a frog into room temperature water and gradually increasing the heat until the frog is dead and never knew what happened. The same goes for basically anything with enough time involved.

The only thing I do not like about the mower at this point is the maintenance. Changing oil and greasing can be a little tricky. I would like for someone to give me an opinion on the easiest way to change blades on a Scag TT. I am accustomed to snatching a Hustler into the air and with an impact wrench changing the blades in a matter of minutes. I don't see it being that easy with the Scag, but would certainly be open to suggestions that can make the process easier and faster.
 

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You can both adjust the height of the steering levers and the pitch. That is on page 28 of your ops. That may help you get a better position that makes your hands or forearms less fatigued feeling after using it. You can also afjust the foot peg for the deck lift to give you better leverage, though that is rather limited in range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You can both adjust the height of the steering levers and the pitch. That is on page 28 of your ops. That may help you get a better position that makes your hands or forearms less fatigued feeling after using it. You can also afjust the foot peg for the deck lift to give you better leverage, though that is rather limited in range.
There are also 3 holes at the front of each steering dampener that I cannot find in the manual, but was told by Scag I could move to the lower hole, and it would ease tension on the steering. I have physically seen the three holes, but cannot find the adjustment in the manual. I've seen all the other adjustments, but not for the dampeners, which seems odd.
 

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There are also 3 holes at the front of each steering dampener that I cannot find in the manual, but was told by Scag I could move to the lower hole, and it would ease tension on the steering. I have physically seen the three holes, but cannot find the adjustment in the manual. I've seen all the other adjustments, but not for the dampeners, which seems odd.
I know that just prior to the year I bought my JD the dampers had three positions to choose from, but starting with my model year, they come with two. I have used both settings. The oem setting gives you more leverage so you get quicker response with a little less effort. The other one gives less leverage and slightly stiffer movement, which is great for my use and how I had mine set for years as it gave much better control of stick input on a little rougher lawns, You can see the original mounting hole as well as the optional one being used here, and maybe that will give you an idea as to which way you want to go-
Hood Green Motor vehicle Computer hardware Machine
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I know that just prior to the year I bought my JD the dampers had three positions to choose from, but starting with my model year, they come with two. I have used both settings. The oem setting gives you more leverage so you get quicker response with a little less effort. The other one gives less leverage and slightly stiffer movement, which is great for my use and how I had mine set for years as it gave much better control of stick input on a little rougher lawns, You can see the original mounting hole as well as the optional one being used here, and maybe that will give you an idea as to which way you want to go- View attachment 523825
Here is an old thread speaking about what I have seen, will make a photo to show the option.

Are you sure on that oil? Vanguards normally are running 15w50
I was told by the dealer that the mower came with Vanguard 5W-30 full synthetic, and that was all they recommended. The 5W-30 full synthetic covers a temperature range of below -20° to 100° F. I am attaching the Vanguard oil chart. Read the information on the right side of the chart, it is claiming the 5W-30 is good to 120°, of which I cannot believe.
 

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Here is an old thread speaking about what I have seen, will make a photo to show the option.


I was told by the dealer that the mower came with Vanguard 5W-30 full synthetic, and that was all they recommended. The 5W-30 full synthetic covers a temperature range of below -20° to 100° F. I am attaching the Vanguard oil chart. Read the information on the right side of the chart, it is claiming the 5W-30 is good to 120°, of which I cannot believe.
Hmm yea I've seen that chart, but was always told (at least in our geographic area) 15w50. Maybe they are recommending because of your area. But the chart suggests 15w50 if the motor is used for 'continuous' use applications, which would be mowing. And if you are southern, 15w50 should be a better choice (per the chart) as your temps won't be as low?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hmm yea I've seen that chart, but was always told (at least in our geographic area) 15w50. Maybe they are recommending because of your area. But the chart suggests 15w50 if the motor is used for 'continuous' use applications, which would be mowing. And if you are southern, 15w50 should be a better choice (per the chart) as your temps won't be as low?
I am only 15 miles from South Carolina, meaning it gets extremely hot in my area. I am with you and will change over to 15W-50 when hot weather arrives.
 

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I've heard operators speak about using anti-vibration gloves to help relieve soreness associated with running a mower. I noticed tired hands today, and I've never had this happen when operating a HyperDrive, or regular Super Z. The steering on the Scag takes more effort to operate than does the Hustler. My wife can handle the 1600 lb HyperDrive with no problem, I believe the Scag would be difficult for her to drive, and lifting the deck virtually impossible.

I need to check and see if there is any way to make the deck easier to lift. I believe the steering dampeners can be adjusted for easier movement of the steering levers, need to look at the manual.

You definitely get more accustomed to a different operating machine with time. Sorta of like that old adage of putting a frog into room temperature water and gradually increasing the heat until the frog is dead and never knew what happened. The same goes for basically anything with enough time involved.

The only thing I do not like about the mower at this point is the maintenance. Changing oil and greasing can be a little tricky. I would like for someone to give me an opinion on the easiest way to change blades on a Scag TT. I am accustomed to snatching a Hustler into the air and with an impact wrench changing the blades in a matter of minutes. I don't see it being that easy with the Scag, but would certainly be open to suggestions that can make the process easier and faster.
The way I do it is wrench on bottom of bolt held by my left hand and m18 impact on top. Mower driven up on trailer ramp so I have more access to center. Hopefully you have longer arms..
 

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I remember when they used to recommend 10W-30 or 10W-40 for vehicles for summer use. Now they say to use only 0W15 or 0W-20 in an awful lot of them, but now it is full synnthetic only, and all these vehicles are doing just fine summer or winter, long trips or short ones. The difference being the oil is now full synthetic. If Vanguard is recommending 5W-30, that is what I would stick with. They designed it and have to warranty it, so they ought to know IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I know that just prior to the year I bought my JD the dampers had three positions to choose from, but starting with my model year, they come with two. I have used both settings. The oem setting gives you more leverage so you get quicker response with a little less effort. The other one gives less leverage and slightly stiffer movement, which is great for my use and how I had mine set for years as it gave much better control of stick input on a little rougher lawns, You can see the original mounting hole as well as the optional one being used here, and maybe that will give you an idea as to which way you want to go- View attachment 523825
This is the steering dampener adjustment on the Scag TT II. The lower hole supposedly reduces force on steering
levers.
Light Motor vehicle Hood Automotive exterior Bumper
 

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Is it more the linkage setup that causes the feel difference between one pump and another or is it the brand of pump? My exmark x series has Parker hydrostatic units and it's extremely stiff to the point of being a little bit tiring to drive and a little bit disconnected filling compared to my Ferris is 3200 which has hydrogear hydrostatic units and it drives extremely easily and feels very instantaneous much closer to what I consider the golden standard for ZTRs which was the way Dixie chopper classics hydros felt that I ran for 20 years.
I much prefer an almost effortless feel to hydraulics versus the way they do a lot of them nowadays where they feel stiff I guess trying to make it easier for people to drive smoothly?

I also used my buddies John Deere zTR for a week when my mower was in the shop one time and I would put it somewhere in between the way my Ferris feels and the way my exmark feels. I hate using my exmark now after using the ferris for a while because it just feels like I'm working hard just to drive it where with the ferris it's not as effortless as Dixie choppers were but it's a whole lot closer than anything else I've driven.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Is it more the linkage setup that causes the feel difference between one pump and another or is it the brand of pump? My exmark x series has Parker hydrostatic units and it's extremely stiff to the point of being a little bit tiring to drive and a little bit disconnected filling compared to my Ferris is 3200 which has hydrogear hydrostatic units and it drives extremely easily and feels very instantaneous much closer to what I consider the golden standard for ZTRs which was the way Dixie chopper classics hydros felt that I ran for 20 years.
I much prefer an almost effortless feel to hydraulics versus the way they do a lot of them nowadays where they feel stiff I guess trying to make it easier for people to drive smoothly?

I also used my buddies John Deere zTR for a week when my mower was in the shop one time and I would put it somewhere in between the way my Ferris feels and the way my exmark feels. I hate using my exmark now after using the ferris for a while because it just feels like I'm working hard just to drive it where with the ferris it's not as effortless as Dixie choppers were but it's a whole lot closer than anything else I've driven.
I consider Hustler's HyperDrive system as the gold standard, effortless steering but still an excellent feeling of complete control.
 

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Hustler Hyperdrive is effortless with complete control. Not jerky or stiff, it's just complete finesse with feather light control. You can control the levers with 2 fingers. I've never feel any tired or numb hands after over 2000 hrs. running Hustler mowers.
 
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