Lawn Care Forum banner

Vendor Program Options

11K views 25 replies 4 participants last post by  Duekster 
#1 ·
Here are the options a supplier gave me for starting next year's program. Looking for input anyone can offer for the best startup program. I need the best bang for my $ and get the best results. We are only treating our monthly maintenance accounts and plan on getting a Z-Max for applications.


FEBRUARY/MARCH
EVADE .375% 0-0-7 (BARRICADE)
PENDIMETHALIN .86% 0-0-7
DIMENSION .22% 5-0-20
PENDIMETHALIN .86% 19-0-5 30%XCU
EVADE .375% 24-0-11 30%XCU
PIN-DEE 3.3 EC 2.5 GALLON
PRODIAMINE 65WDG 5LB
SPECTICLE FLO 1 GALLON

APRIL/MAY
24-0-5 40%XCU 2%FE
24-0-11 50%XCU 6%FE
18-0-18 50%XCU 2%FE 2%MG
TALSTAR .073% 18-0-6 40%XCU
PIN-DEE 3.3 EC 2.5 GALLON
PRODIAMINE 65WDG 5LB
SPECTICLE FLO 1 GALLON

MAY/JUNE (INSECTICIDE)
TOPCHOICE ( MOLE CRICKETS)
ALLECTUS .225% 0-07 (CHINCH BUGS)
TALSTAR 0.073% 0-0-7
TALSTAR 1 GALLON (AS NEEDED)

JUNE/JULY
24-0-5 40%XCU 2%FE
24-0-11 50%XCU 6%FE
18-0-18 50%XCU 2%FE 2%MG
TALSTAR .073% 18-0-6 40%XCU
TALSTAR 1 GALLON (AS NEEDED)

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER
24-0-5 40%XCU 2%FE
24-0-11 50%XCU 6%FE
5-0-20
9-0-19 AS 50%XCU 4%FE 2%MN 2%MG

OCTOBER
EVADE .375% 15-0-15 50% XCU(BARRICADE)
18-24-12 25%XCU STARTER FERTILIZER
SIMAZINE 4L 2.5 GALLON
SPECTICLE FLO 1 GALLON

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER
EVADE .375% 0-0-7 (BARRICADE)
FERTILIZER (QUICK RELEASE 3/4 N PER 1,000)
SOIL AMMENDMENTS IF NEEDED (LIME, SULFER, GYPSUM)
 
See less See more
#2 ·
That's a lot of "cides" especially preemergent herbicides. By growing the grass thickly and steadily through regular feedings, much of that is not needed. I use Gallery DF, medium rates of Dimension 40WSP and low rates of Specticle when needed. I used to use simazine as a soil active post emergent on certain weeds. Too many preemergent herbicides can backfire by pruning the turf roots and thinning out the lawn.
 
#3 ·
That's a lot of "cides" especially preemergent herbicides. By growing the grass thickly and steadily through regular feedings, much of that is not needed. I use Gallery DF, medium rates of Dimension 40WSP and low rates of Specticle when needed. I used to use simazine as a soil active post emergent on certain weeds. Too many preemergent herbicides can backfire by pruning the turf roots and thinning out the lawn.
Per your's and others suggestion I quit using the usual pre's. It does seem I will have to go back to using some pre on certain bermuda lawns to fight the crab. I will begin using Gallery on higher end lawns with broadleaf pressure.

Did you quit using Simazine because you felt it prunes the roots? I didn't think it was that much of a root pruner?
 
#4 ·
Warm Season Grass -- I often use a split app of DIMENSION.

I use 1/2 of the recomended annual rate for previously treated yards in the fall. Then two 1/3 Apps in late winter (FEB~March) and 1/3 again in May. This keeps me below the max annual rate in in the middle range too.

I find that in the second season that I can spot treat weeds.
If I fertilize well in the Fall, I often can just do organics and mircos including iron in the early spring. Fertilize lightly in late spring and early summer. Higher feedings in Sept and October.
 
#5 ·
Per your's and others suggestion I quit using the usual pre's. It does seem I will have to go back to using some pre on certain bermuda lawns to fight the crab. I will begin using Gallery on higher end lawns with broadleaf pressure.

Did you quit using Simazine because you felt it prunes the roots? I didn't think it was that much of a root pruner?
I stopped because the DOA put that on their special restriction list. Otherwise, I had been using either that or atrazine as the main soil active herbicides for almost 20 years. A bad experience with Surflan taught me about using orange herbicides on warm season turf. Simazine or atrazine does not cause nearly the damage that an orange herbicide does. What else can safely be used over a newly plugged or sprigged St Augustine lawn.
 
#6 ·
I will take any advice I can get. Do the split Pre-M apps and more freqent fertilizer apps usually give a better result. We are going to be fighting a weed problem left by our last chemical guys. Most of our commercial propeties are Bermuda and most of the residentials are St. Augustine. I only have a couple of Centipede properties. We are taking soil samples at all the properties next week and will start from there. I was advised of using a long lasting Pre-M, granular fertilizer, fungicide and post apps when needed.
 
#9 ·
Postemerge now to kill what is going to be adding to the seed bank. Your preemerge has to start now and be pretty intensive for the first 365 days. What kind of weeds am I looking at in the pictures?
 
#10 ·
Another property. Anyone care to point me in the direction of how you would takle these weed infested properties. Go after them with Pre's in the early Spring or try to take them out with Fall Post?
The drain in the 2nd pic makes me think this is an area that is prone to excessive moisture and the weeds that go along with it. Although it may not be possible try to correct this. If it is not correctable let the customer know this area will be difficult to control weeds that inhabit wet areas.
 
#11 ·
Greendoctor, that's mostly bitterchamber, buttonweed, some crabgrass and dollar weeds.
You think a Medium rate of Celcius + MSO would do the trick as a Fall Post?

ArTurf, there is a drain there but that area doesn't hold water at all. 60% of the entire lawn looks like that area too. That was the worst of front yard, but I had to crop the picture to get it to upload.
thanks guys
 
#12 ·
Add 4 oz per acre Dismiss and plan on applying the high rate of Gallery DF near this application. None of the preemergents your vendor is selling are strong on broadleaf weeds.
 
#14 ·
That I could not tell you. The closest to dormant turf I deal with is grass that has not had a full day's sun for over a week and temperatures below 80 in the day. I would be cautious because herbicide tolerance is based on grass growing out of any injury it might receive from an application. What kind of weeds are you targeting that are still around while the St Augustine is trying to go to sleep?.
 
#15 ·
Thanks. Would Gallery be your go to PreM to start with now... and in the Spring too?
I'm meeting with the GM at JDL tomorrow to look at prices for the program they recommend for our area. I know these guys are sales people and will "recommend" what's going to make the most profit for them. I will get prices on Dismiss and Gallery too. That's why I was here to find who has the best real world suggestions for getting rid of the current weeds and setting myself up for success in the Spring.
 
#16 ·
Yes, in fact, given the spectrum of weeds you are faced with, I would make up an ugly Martini consisting of Gallery, Dismiss and Celsius. How bad is the crabgrass? If it is a problem, an approved tank mix is the medium rate of Dimension. Dimension and Gallery is what I use on lawns that are known to sprout all kinds of weeds after Christmas. Those lawns so treated get through the Holidays without problems. You would do well to apply another preemergent 3 months from now. In semitropical areas, most preemergents last about 21/2-3 months before they are done.
 
#17 ·
That I could not tell you. The closest to dormant turf I deal with is grass that has not had a full day's sun for over a week and temperatures below 80 in the day. I would be cautious because herbicide tolerance is based on grass growing out of any injury it might receive from an application. What kind of weeds are you targeting that are still around while the St Augustine is trying to go to sleep?.
I am trying to get rid of some wild violet. Was thinking about a mix of Dismiss & Metsulfuron, 4oz & .50 per acre rate. I realize I should have gotten it earlier but missed it.
 
#19 ·
Thanks Doc. The crabgrass isn't as big of a problem as the chamberbitter and button weed. Can any of these be applied to overseeded rye turf areas? All of the rye has been up for a few weeks and we have already applied fert, but don't want to kill off any of the rye.
 
#20 ·
If you are treating rye, no Celsius. Low rates of Dismiss and Three Way type herbicides only. Gallery is still ok after all of the rye has emerged.
 
#22 ·
If you do not want to monkey around with mixing your own, a good one is T Zone. Labeled for actively growing rye/dormant bermuda. Add the Gallery DF to that.
 
#23 ·
Anyone have a suggestion for what to use for wild violet in near dormant St Aug?
A softer mix would be just MSM. I would be careful of things likely to cause contact injury to the desirable turf. Violets can take the cold, yes? You could wait until the St Augustine is fully dormant then go nuts.
 
#26 ·
You can apply Pre-emergent any time but there are various windows for different weed concerns.

Poa is winter weed grass concern so I try to get in late august to Sept.

I apply Dimension 3 times a year, read Lable about a split program but I hit Sept, and split in Feb, May.

I have applied a 3 way on a really weedy lawn ( broad leaf) and there was some effect but not as much as you would have in the late winter spring.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top