walker gear boxes


LawnSite Member
Hello, just wondering how to change the gear box oil, how often it should be changed, and how full the boxes should be? Also how often should i change the hydro fluid, and how can i do that? Thanks for everyones help!!!


LawnSite Member
New Zealand
G'Day Mate...
I take it you are refering to the deck gear-boxes.
Walker state that these units do not require scheduled servicing,that being said,I prefer to swap out the oil in my gear boxes every year.
I just remove the decks from their carriers, unscrew the cover plates on the two blade drive gear-boxes and stand the deck up on it's end.This permits the oil to drain out and into the container you've placed under them.
Once the oil has drained,flush them out and refill with SAE E.P. 90W gear oil so that the horizontal shaft in the box is submerged.
Leave this air space as these boxes are'nt vented.

If you are asking about the Tractor P.T.O Box,there is a plug in the bottom of the box that requires a a allen head key to remove it. Drain the oil, put back the plug and refil with the same oil as used in the deck g-boxes.Pour this in through the dip stick stand pipe.Dont over fill the rascal...

If you you want to change out the Gear Axle oil,dump it out of the drain hole,reinstall the plug and fill through the breather vent until it flows out of the oil level plug.Use S.A.E 80-W90 (APIGL-5) gear oil.

Now for the Hydros....Remove the lower drain plug and the air bleed plug (next to the clear resevoir on top of the hydro) and drain the oil.CLEAN dirt from around plugs and cap BEFORE removeing them.......these hydroscan be buggers are VERY dirt sensitive.
Replace the lower plug and refil the transmission through the bleed hole until it is as full as you can get it.Rotate the wheels a few times to allow trapped air to vent and refill if required.
Replace the plug and fill the clear resivoir to the lowest (COLD) mark and refit the cap.

The key to long hydro life is CLEANNESS.
Check the level in a day or so.If the oil looks black (dark) or smells burnt at any stage, replace it with fresh stuff.

For what its worth,I only use Mobil 1 synthetic(15W50) and have had no probs. This is what walker recommend and it works for me.

Enjoy your machine........



LawnSite Fanatic
N.E. Wisconsin
That last response was as professional and complete as I have ever seen. Great way to break into Lawnsite, Welcome Jim.

Its also good to see another Walker owner.


LawnSite Senior Member
Qld Australia
g'day jim had walkers in nz way back, dont walkers still have breather holes on gear boxes ? pulled hydo apart once and if not lined up by one mill will play up.


LawnSite Member
New Zealand
Thanks for the warm welcome Mow Ed....:)
I've been running Walkers for almost 6 years now and I love 'em.Bought my first liquid cooled unit a month or so ago and shes looking good so far.....

You're right about the gear axels being vented easycareacres,it's only the deck boxes that are sealed tight.

Regards from Down Under..



LawnSite Member
To true about that being a good post kimberjim, well written! Welcome to lawnsite :)

(why is it that most of the new zleanders on these forums are called Jim lol)

Russel You're from New Zealand? Ah, now that explains a lot hehe!



LawnSite Member
On a related note, on both of my Walkers, the Gear Axle breather vent is easy to access on one site, and underneath the parking brake assembly brake actuator mount. How does one get to the breather vent? Is it necessary to remove the whole actuator/mount or something else?


LawnSite Member
To answer my own question, this is what I determined.
In order to get to the breather vent, it is necessary to move the parking break actuator mount. First, remove the L-shaped piece (the brake actuator arm) that holds down the transmission lock pin (plunger) and remove the pin. Second, use a 15/16" socket on the gear axle plunger bushing and turn or remove the parking break assembly. At it is possible to open the breather vent using a 7/16" socket. Finally, use a 1/4" hex wrench to open the oil level plug, and then fill from the vent with gear oil until it starts to come out of the oil level plug. Also, the rubber pieces around the pin, which are the O-ring seals (1/4 x 3/8) and Rubber Dust Shield (5/8 x 3/8 x 1/32), were deteriorating, so they were replaced.

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