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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today I noticed on my Walker MT a gash in what I would call the blower housing. It was about an 1/8" wide and at least 3 or 4 inches long. You could see where the grass was stuck in the crack coming through. I'm assuming something metallic went through the blower and punched this hole in it. According to Walker parts manual this is called the blower scroll. My question is will I have to replace the whole blower assembly or can I just have the scroll replaced? I haven't closely inspected the blower wheel to see if it is damaged but if it is could I have these damaged parts replaced without having to bare the cost of a complete blower assembly. Could someone with knowledge of Walker mowers please help me out. I am not a mechanic and don't want to get taken advantage of when I take it in for repair. Thanks.
 

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hey I had the same thing today this happens a good bit, if you know a good welder and the fan is still in good shape take it off and have them patch it. we usually patch our
blower assembly at least once before replacing. the cost of a new one is about 280 bucks
this is caused by gravel, sand or anything like that.Mine was about 1/4 inch wide
by 4 in long but my guy was able to weld it like new as we are getting ready for leaf season any question give me a shout good luck Greg
 

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Yes, that should just be the scroll. It is listed under an attachment as it is case hardened.
 

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I have to replace mine about every 400-500 hours. On the new 10.5 inch blower, you can just replace the piece that is wore and do not have to buy the whole blower or whole blower housing. It was $60 if I remember right. I replaced it myself, took a couple hours to drop the blower and replace it and reinstall. I also had to replace my impeller while I was doing this because the blades were wore enough it was allowing them to bend and bind the blower up. I mow a lot of sandy/dry lawns so thats tough on them.
 

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Assuming the gash is on the upper portion of the housing there is no need to remove the blower. Remove the hydro belt and spring. There is enough room for any experienced welder. I just made this same repair this past sunday. Take a piece of metal plate, heat and bend to the contour of the housing. Then you can tac it in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I had my mechanic pull the blower today and weld the scroll. Unfortunately the crack in it wasn't just on the top so it had to be pulled. I ordered an extra blower scroll from Russo Power Equipment for next time. Thanks for all the replies and information.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Bringing back an old thread. I had the scroll welded. The weld lasted a while and then blew out again so I had a new scroll put on which seemed to be thicker and sturdier than the factory scroll. The factory scroll had a groove in it and the metal was thinner where the groove was. The new scroll was the same thickness all the way with no groove or indentation in the metal. I don't know if the scroll I got was case hardened or not but it seemed a lot sturdier(no grooves) than the scroll that came on the blower from the factory. Now the blower wheel is worn to the point the mower has lost suction and the housing not the replacement scroll has a couple small holes in it.

Has anyone had a blower assembly replaced by their dealer and if so what should I be looking at cost wise for parts and labor? My Walker MT is a 2007 with the 10.5" blower. Should I opt for the case hardened blower assembly being that it is sandy here where I live and if so does any one know roughly how much more the case hardened assembly would be. The machine only has 120 hours on it and I need some advice from more experienced Walker owners.
 

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The new scroll doesn't have any grooves in it. It is a solid piece. As they wear it starts out as a groove until it finally wears thru. I haven't bought a new complete assembly. I usually just replace the wheel or impeller and the scroll piece you are talking about since it is much cheaper. I am not sure of the price of any of these parts now since Walker's part prices have skyrocketed, but the last I remember was around $150 for both of these parts.
If your blower wore out in 120 hours I would definitely check out a hardened blower. I think it is only the case that is hardened and not the impeller though.
 

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power company dropped a bolt it sat 6 months until we did a clean up sucked up a 8 inch transformer bolt. Plastic intake shoot, blower, housing everything replaced including jack shaft 800 at dealer on power companies dime they actually paid it. the walker will suck up anything.
 

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I had to replace my starter on my 2000 Walker two years ago and it requires taking the blower out. (26 EFI) It is not that difficult unless you are really really mechanically disadvantaged. Take the deck off and run the mower up on car ramps and get busy. No special tools required outside of the normal socket set. It will save you significantly if you have the time to do the change out yourself.
I don't know what a dealer would charge for it but I am sure its not less than 100 bucks. Give it a try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I feel really stupid now. Dealer called yesterday and said the shear pin on the drive shaft for deck was sheared and the blades were not turning.

Blower wheel was worn but he said he had seen worse. He mentioned I could run it through the leaf cleanup season but would need to replace the wheel before next year. I also have some pencil eraser size holes in my blower housing that I have to get welded.

I don't know about trying to replace the wheel myself. Does anyone know the going price for a 10.5" blower paddle wheel? Or the price range for them?
 
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