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Weed control for me

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by Cathman, May 15, 2008.

  1. Cathman

    Cathman LawnSite Member
    Messages: 72

    DISCLAIMER: I am not a licensed applicator and plan to use any information for my home use only. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

    So, i have finally had the time to weed the flower beds around my pool and back of the house. I tried the weed mat crap last year....well i now know it doesn't work worth a crap, and i tried some thick crap. Lots o money wasted. I plan on mulching it this weekend but would like to figure out if there is something i can put down before i spread the mulch to slow down the weeds or prevent them completely. I have some boxwoods, jasmin for fill in cover, indian hawthorn, 3 sago palms, some fountain grass, and a few other things in there.

    The weeds i have the most trouble with are dandelions. I also have a few grassy weeds, but they are here and there. Have some other crap that is leafy but i have no clue what its called at the moment. I guess what i am looking for is the dandelion and broadleaf stuff mostly, the other stuff being controlled would be a bonus.

    So, what could i apply, if anything, that would slow this stuff down. I have decreased my watering, and that has helped some, but i would love to be able to water as i like and have a beautiful flower bed at the same time.

    Again, thanks for any and all help.
  2. Whitey4

    Whitey4 LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,448

    You have several options. You can repeatedly hit the weeds with glyphosate (round up), use a pre-emergent like Preen to prevent weeds from germinating, use a broadleaf herbicide like Ortho lawn weed killer, but anything you spray (with some exceptions) will damage other nearby plantings if the spray drifts at all.

    A couple retail products are ortho ground clear, a one a year pre-and post-emergent herbicide, but if it leaches it will kill nearby plants (even trees) if it hits the root zone. Then there is another "twice a year" round up product, forget the name, but it won't kill nearby plantings if they are established.

    I suggest picking a strategy, be VERY careful of off target application, and stick to your regular irrigation routine (iof it has worked well in the past). Depending on how anal you might be, and how large he bed is, you can also apply round up with a paint brush or sponge to the offending weeds.

    There are some chemicals that could be broadcast sprayed, but without knowing every variety of plant in the garden (some of these will be safe for many, but not all plantings) this is the best I can offer.... might get more opnins on this....
  3. ted putnam

    ted putnam LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,718

    Easiest, Cheapest route for you to take. First, spray beds with Round up or similar Glyphosate product. Buy the concentrate and mix yourself. Pre-mix sucks. I don't know if they still sell it but they used to sell 3 or 4 packets in a box called Round up pro dry. Each packet made a gallon of mix in a hand sprayer. Round up is a contact herbicide that only kills what it makes contact with as far as green leafy material. It will not leach in the soil, so in that respect it is safe. Spray in the early morning or late in the evening when winds are minimal to lessen the chance of drift. Use a piece of cardboard for a shield or cover plants with a sheet or drop cloth for protection. If their is a Lesco branch in your area, buy a bag of 0-0-7 bonded with Pre-m and spread in bed areas. One bag should cover 10-12,000 sq ft. Water this in and wash any off plants from the spreading process and then mulch your beds. You're done. Note: if no Lesco in your area Hi -yield crabgrass preventer works well too.
  4. Cathman

    Cathman LawnSite Member
    Messages: 72

    I use the round up in the open areas....leary about it getting on anything else and it does work pretty well...at least on what it hits at that time. My problem seems to be that i weed it by hand and with round up and a couple, 3 weeks later, new ones pop up. I have read some about the pre emergent things, but i have no idea what they are and how they work. Are these liquids or granules and are most safe to apply in beds?

    My biggest problem has been the jasmine (sp). It had been slow to take off, so i threw some general purpose fert in there (13-13-13) and WOW, it is growing like crazy and will soon be shapeable, but every other weed in there has gone wild. I cannot spray it with round up so i pull each dandelion by hand and i know i don't get the roots everytime.

    I do not have a local Lesco....one in Houston about 1.5 hours away, but i could make a trip there i suppose....the money spent would be well worth it to me, and the wife would get off me arse :cool2: . I have an ACE hardware that has a few things....will check into the hi-yield stuff....what is the active ingredient i need to look for?? I think Preen is Trifluralin or something like that....is that what i'm looking for?
  5. ted putnam

    ted putnam LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,718

    I'm not sure what the active ingredient is in Hi-yield. It's been so many years since I've used it. I'm thinking it's Balan, but I'm not sure. It and the Lesco product are granulars. Pre-emergents like Pre-M, Trifluralin and Balan are seed barriers. They prevent or disrupt seed germination.Try local Farmers co-ops. They are usually very helpful and reasonably priced. Hope this helps.
  6. Cathman

    Cathman LawnSite Member
    Messages: 72

    Ok, so i went a shopping today. Here is what i was able to find. Barricade (pretty cheap for a 50 lb bag), Snapshot TG 2.5 (very expensive but a 50lb bag), Dimension, and Portrait.

    The guy at the local landscape place said they use the Barricade because it is less expensive and the amounts of rain we usually have will wash away (dilute) the stuff pretty quick so you have to use it more often. He said the Snapshot is good stuff also, but referred me to the previous rain issue and cost of the Snapshot.

    No one at the store where i found the Dimension or Portrait could tell me anything about them.

    So, recommendations. Thanks for the directions so far gents, greatly appreciated.
  7. DeepGreenLawn

    DeepGreenLawn LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,372

    once you get rid of the existing weeds as long as you have a good thick layer of mulch this should take care of them. In the future you need to make sure that your not applying mulch on top of mulch though. As the mulch decomposes it will then create a new area for weeds to grow in.
  8. Marcos

    Marcos LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,720

    I'd go with the Snapshot.
    It's well worth the extra $$$.

    And after you buy a bag...you could e-mail these folks at Dow : http://www.google.com/search?source...8&rlz=1T4DKUS_enUS202US202&q=dow+agrosciences
    Beg and plead for them to send to you in the mail an el-cheapo plastic 'Snapshot tray' that can help you make more efficient use of your 50# bag of Snapshot.
    They'll probably do it...if they're not 'out' of them.
    They have deep pockets. :rolleyes:

    This 1 sq.ft. tray actually gives you a "visual representation" of what spread pattern you need to cover in your landscape; allowing the applicator to see physical examples of what 100 #, 150 #, and 200 # per acre actually looks like, if they follow the instructions carefully.

    If you decide later to plant flowering annuals or groundcover in soil that's been treated with Snapshot, just pull the mulch aside & make sure to "disturb" the soil quite well in that area, clear down to about a depth of 5-6" or so.
    (or...you could do the ol' "throw a sheet over the bed and apply the pre-emergent, then pull up the sheet" trick !!)
  9. (wi) Roots

    (wi) Roots LawnSite Member
    from 9
    Messages: 152

    Hire a Pro! There are too many variable to consider when working in flower bed with out inital I.D. any suggestion here will be limited on the info. Proper I.D. needed for your problems. With out the understanding on what make your problem persist in the first place will only give you minimal results here. Again, hire a pro, you will only be saving $$$ in the long run!

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