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Weed/Grass Control Recommendations?

Discussion in 'Organic Lawn Care' started by TC Lawns, Jun 18, 2008.

  1. TC Lawns

    TC Lawns LawnSite Member
    Messages: 57

    One of my commercial jobs is a new constructon bank that has 2 types of grass. The landscaper that installed the flower beds used pinestraw instead of mulch. And it lets alot of weeds/grass in. The front piece of grass is a large 3 arce area along a big road with that type of grass that grows in medians and on the side of the interstate. There rest (new grass) is bermuda. The beds have large weeds and sawgrass growing up throught them in the middle, and around the edges have bermuda creaping up through the pinestraw. What is the best storebought or homemade mix that will take care of all of these weeds and grasses without harming the plants in the beds. I have used the Ortho concentrated stuff in my sprayer, not great, but better than nothing.
  2. Marcos

    Marcos LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,720

    Did you know that you posted in the organic forum ?
    The folks normally in this forum...I'm sure...would likely suggest that you find some specific name brand that contains up to 20% vinegar, and spray directly onto the weeds... WITHOUT touching the desirable plant material with it.

    Non-organic methods could include what is called 'over the top' selective herbicides that are designed to take out, for example, monocots (grassy weeds) without affecting many types of woody ornamentals...so long as the label is followed.

    Is it your desire to do this project organically, or not ?
  3. TC Lawns

    TC Lawns LawnSite Member
    Messages: 57

    oranically?..NO...sorry i posted this in the wrong one. I will repost in the other one. I just want them dead, and to have to spray as little as possible. What brand "over the top" chemicals are good. And what are they called?
  4. Marcos

    Marcos LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,720

    Check out this label for Fusilade II from Syngenta :


    It's got bermudagrass on it for sure.
    The median usage rate is 0.5 oz per 1000 sq. ft.

    Pay attention to the phytotoxicity %'s in each table on the label, to get a general idea of how dangerous it would be to spray around your specific plant materials.
    Also....keep in mind, droughty.... and / or hot, miserable conditions where plants are under alot of STRESS is not a real good time for ANY 'over the top' apps.

    The last time I bought Fusililade (in Ohio) it was about, maybe $65-$70 / qt.
    (But a qt maybe lasts me a year or two!)
    I imagine it could be somewhat higher now.

    By definition on the label...a whole quart should cover 64,000 sq ft, or 1.47 acres of landscape.
  5. treegal1

    treegal1 LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,911

    wrong post??? hope that does not happen at mix time:laugh:oops wrong label, now you have a three headed......
  6. DeepGreenLawn

    DeepGreenLawn LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,372

    the best control I have found for bermuda in the beds is a good edger. Run it along the bed line and it will keep 90% of the bermuda out. Other than that, you might as well be VERY careful with some good roundup and knock it out. If it is in the flowers/bushes already try a brush and "paint" it on
  7. k911lowe

    k911lowe LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 526

    roundup pro for sure.have been fighting bermuda for a long time, edges need spraying about every 2 weeks.bermuda or hybrid bermuda is all that grow her from april to august.
  8. treegal1

    treegal1 LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,911

    is this grass fire proof?? how about a fatty acid(scythe) that will kill them in short order. also the soil PH, could it be altered to make this grass less aggressive?

    it sounds like a possible candidate for Florida turf???
  9. DeepGreenLawn

    DeepGreenLawn LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,372

    The only natural control for bermuda grass I have found is shade. That is the one area that it will not last. Even then it will grow where it can but you can't get a full stand in partial-full shade. Fireproof? Probably, it is an aggressive grower both above and below ground. You have to kill the whole plant, roots and all or it will come back and one plant can just multiplies off of itself. I am surprised you don't have it down there. But it seems to not be as widely used past Macon, central GA, for whatever reason. Not sure why.

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