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Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by level4designs, Jul 7, 2014.
lowes sells aethetcally pleasing dimmer swtiches, perhaps one for the pump motor
I'm thinking a new pressure switch might have been included in the motor-replacement job, and it needs to be adjusted upwards. A well this deep might be low producing, leaving them little choice but to run, then rest, while the water level recovers.
Guys trust me, he needs a cycle stop valve. Re-insert the original GPM nozzles (as appropriate for coverage, etc).
The cycle stop valve prevents this scenario. It will eliminate the short-cycling. A well tank cannot do this.
It doesnt appear to be a well-recovery problem.
what ISSSSSS short cycling (in reference to pumps)?
I searched it on google and one forum kept saying the cause of it is, over sized equipment, over size equipment, but imagine how I , the simpleton, tried to consider that:
perhaps they mean:
1. the motor is too big for the pump.
2. the pump is too big for the motor.
3. the nozzles are too big for the capabilitys of the pump and motor.
4. the capabilities of the pump and motor are too big for the GPM restriction of the nozzles.
Think of supply vs demand Rhett.
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which one is winning the match?
In this case, Supply is more than Demand.
A Cycle stop vavle will solve this short cycling problem by MATCHING supply to the demand in a stable way, as opposed to the current way which doesn't have the ability to STABILIZE it.
This is what that cycle stop valve will do. It will stabilize the supply with the demand, while satisfying the needs of both... ie, the pump "needs" flow to remain cool, while the zones "need" pressure to operate correctly.
Cycle stop valve. I sound like a shill for them but IT WORKS, and it works fantastically great.
I had a drip zone that would run causing the pump to cycle. I was told "add a couple of spray heads until it stops" but that's silly, because now the spray heads OVERSPRAY and puddle because the drip zone needs to run for minimum 30 minutes. Prior to the csv, the pump would cycle about 10 or 11 times, but now it runs continuously, which is what we want, until the drip zone finishes and the pump (eventually) turns off after its built up pressure to turn off the pressure switch.
Cycle stop valve. It'll work fantastically great for this situation. (ALL) Homeowner, you should install this if you have a wellpump/pressure switch setup.
Are you guys installing these CSV's inside and on systems where the well supplys the whole house also?
It isn't like the house needs higher pressure than the sprinkler system.
I'm not touting the CSV for now, because there is some presumption that the sprinkler system and well coexisted without any CSV in past years. The pressure switch settings need looked at, because they alone might stop any cycling, if they are adjusted higher.
I have a similar problem with a system. It is a 1/3 of an acre property with a 4000 square foot house on it. They have a 1.5 sub that makes about 30 gpm. None of the zones can be built big enough to keep the pump on. I am going to have the well guy pull the pump and install a CSV down the hole.