wet soccer field

Discussion in 'Sports Field Management' started by Keegan, Oct 20, 2015.

  1. Keegan

    Keegan LawnSite Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 607

    About 6 years ago one of my accounts had a new regulation size soccer field built by a demolition contractor that never built an athletic field before and probably haven't since. The soil that was brought in is horrible. After using organic methods the situation has improved but it is nowhere it should be. I've overseeded and don't get much germination. The field does not not drain. THe manager of the school likes to water often. I've told them many times to back off on the watering but it has fallen on deaf ears.
    Any thoughts on how drainage can be improved?

    :hammerhead:
     
  2. foreplease

    foreplease LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,969

    What type of soil and how is surface drainage? It is difficult to work with people who want something to fail, meaning the manager you mentioned.

    If it is a heavy clay based field a soil test and a close look at calcium levels may yield recommendation that would help water drain down through the soil profile. Drain tile in the worst areas is probably needed. Deep tine aeration would help dry up the top 8" or so.

    Photos would help. What organic methods have been used? Getting a good stand of grass growing and mowing it frequently can effectively help mine water out of the field.
     
    heritage likes this.
  3. Keegan

    Keegan LawnSite Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 607

    The field is pitched to the sides. But near the goals on both ends water will stay. The soil is loam and some clay and very little sand. It has always been extremely compacted since installed. I use all organic fertilizers, worm castings, liquid bacteria with yucca, core aerate about 3 times a year. I do not have control over the irrigation system.

    The calcium is 76% from the test a few years ago.
     
  4. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,793

    I would say go with a half organic product--best of both. Say half urea and half Milorganite, 50 pounds each; you need potassium at a ratio of about 1 seventh; so add about 14 pounds of muriate of potash, to above 100 pounds.

    If it is irrigated too much, I don't see how the seed can fail--be sure to use a high-quality disease resistant perennial rye--no cheap 1970s technology seed. Apply at least 10 pounds seed per thousand sqft.

    Can you move the goals and repaint the lines every month--the purpose being to even out the goal-mouth wear.

    Keep working on the excess irrigation problem--keep talking. Point out that irrigation should be stopped 48 hours before a game so the soil becomes more firm for better footing--ball rolls straight and fast.

    You need to think of a way to restore the field,s crown--it must drain.
     
    hort101 likes this.
  5. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,793

    hort101 likes this.
  6. ZombieCutter

    ZombieCutter LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,196

    Bring up injury potential from a wet field as well.

    Nothing gets a Sports Complex motivated like threat of Lawsuit.
     
  7. nsejda

    nsejda LawnSite Member
    Messages: 39

    Take in consideration the turf in front of the nets get beat on the most out of any part on the field. From goal keepers standing to players crashing the net. It's going to be hard keeping grass healthy there. I would try top dressing and see how it goes. Make sure you brush the sand into the grass or it won't look to great.
     

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