What are you replacing your spindle bearings wtih?

xela456

LawnSite Member
Location
Kansas City
the question as stated. Do you spend the extra dough for the high quality expensive bearings?
I have a 1996 or 1997 encore hydro walkbehind.
All the spindle bearings seem tight however i want to purchase backups and i've found a few options, i want your opinions though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spindle-Bea...271?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f268c9db7
these are a universal bearing with a rubber seal seems like a good price for a full set.

http://encorereplacementparts.com/E...uty-Spindle-Bearing-Replaces/M/B005WJ7QBU.htm
This seems to be the cadillac of spindle bearings with a metal seal it seems much more apt to survive the rough life of a bearing under a mower deck.

What would you do?

Also in greasing my spindles i'm a little confused. It is something i have always done religiously without thinking but here is what im wondering: If there is a seal on both the inside and outside of the bearings then how is the grease making its way to the ball bearings? should i pull the inner seal?
 

hal

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Kansas
Do not buy Chinese brands!!!!!! I bought a large quanity of them and they lasted about 1 month of part time use. Now I only buy American or Japanese (skf, nachi, timken......) and sealed with rubber type not metal.
 

herler

LawnSite Fanatic
I don't know what to tell you, OEM is obviously the best way to go because it's guaranteed fit.
That and I mail-order most of mine so we're talking anywhere from 2 to 30 days before the parts come in, usually 2-5 days, sometimes a week or two.
You need a spare machine or some kind of way you can leave machinery sit for some time while the parts come in...

That having been said I use Agricultural / Industrial specification (usually Fafnir / Timken) high speed bearings for spindles, heavy duty for pulleys (yes, did you know some of those $40 pulleys can be rebuilt with a $5 bearing). Not going to tell you that it's always a success story, some of it is trial and error and there's certainly research involved... I've had a few over the years didn't work out, but for the most part I've had good luck, the trick is to find the right one to begin with (which, seeing how labor is involved, I'd rather spend an extra 1/2 hour making sure I have the right part).

When I find a bearing that works I write it down by make and part number (example: fafnir RA100RR7 - these I don't think will fit yours) and which machine it fits (such as Toro 30197 - 30698). I keep these parts lists posted on my wall, I have them for bearings, oil filters, belts, spark plugs, other things as well.

Sometimes there isn't much of a discount, but as often as not I get bearings (and parts) for about half the price of OEM.
Sometimes better, a few times way better but anywhere from 10 to 90 percent off OEM list, I've gotten.
 
Last edited:

Patriot Services

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Tampa FL
the question as stated. Do you spend the extra dough for the high quality expensive bearings?
I have a 1996 or 1997 encore hydro walkbehind.
All the spindle bearings seem tight however i want to purchase backups and i've found a few options, i want your opinions though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spindle-Bea...271?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f268c9db7
these are a universal bearing with a rubber seal seems like a good price for a full set.

http://encorereplacementparts.com/E...uty-Spindle-Bearing-Replaces/M/B005WJ7QBU.htm
This seems to be the cadillac of spindle bearings with a metal seal it seems much more apt to survive the rough life of a bearing under a mower deck.

What would you do?

Also in greasing my spindles i'm a little confused. It is something i have always done religiously without thinking but here is what im wondering: If there is a seal on both the inside and outside of the bearings then how is the grease making its way to the ball bearings? should i pull the inner seal?

Only way to know about the seals is to disassemble and look. The inner seal can be removed. Many guys think they are greasing bearings when all they are really doing is filling the cavity and providing a small amount of heat transfer effect. Many new mowers have fully sealed non greasable that the engineers feel comfortable with the longevity. Stick to the usa made as they are manufactured to higher quality standard.
Posted via Mobile Device
 

herler

LawnSite Fanatic
Oh I didn't look at your links but looking at the Encore listing it seems to me they're using Stens 230-090 bearings (that's make and part number, Stens is the manufacturer, 230-090 is their part number), reason I'm telling you is I can take one look and tell you, 230-090 is a Stens part number because I know from experience (plus the picture has a Stens watermark, that helps).

Which, the 230-090 is actually classified a Heavy Duty bearing.
And unfortunately I also find most of Stens stuff to be a bit pricey.

Now I've ordered a lot of parts from Russo power, please don't fault me if it doesn't work out but generally speaking you should be all right with those guys, they're one of my main suppliers, I've ordered probably near a thousand dollar's worth this year alone.

Being the huge price difference I would take a chance with those Russo guys, they're usually pretty good.
 

ricky86

LawnSite Silver Member
Check TRW brgs. Use double sealed units. More friction but worth the trade off IMO. Also, what i do, is leave the top brg sealed, due to the effect of gravity. Remove one seal on the lower. And as someone posted, metal is a shield. And a poor one at that for the application. Aside from Timkem, I have yet to find a better quality brg than TRW. But, the quality of the grease you use is more important than the brg. Buy brgs from online gypsies claiming the lowest prices, well, you get what you pay for. Nobody is selling parts to save you money. They sell them to make money. :laugh:
 

Top Forums



Top