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What blades do you buy???

Discussion in 'Hardscaping' started by Plant Buyer 83, Jul 30, 2007.

  1. Plant Buyer 83

    Plant Buyer 83 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 176

    What blades does everybody use??

    Are the "premium" & "ultra supreme" blades worth the extra $$ or is the plane old general purpose blade just fine.

    I recently started working for a large landscape company and do the purchasing for the company and before I started they had been buying the regular old all purpose blades. Now I have to buy them so I'm, wondering do I stick with them or go all out and get the best blade they have or somewhere in between??

    Application: pavers, blue stone, concrete, etc.

  2. carcrz

    carcrz LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,085

    Oregon Hi-lifts & Gator Blades
  3. STL Ponds and Waterfalls

    STL Ponds and Waterfalls LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,174

    Yep for a mower! He is asking about diamond blades for cutting stone etc. I can't advise for the top dollar blades. I buy the $100 cheapies and they work just fine for me.
  4. Grn Mtn

    Grn Mtn LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 863

    good question, I've wondered that myself. I have been using the ones United Rental sells for $100-$150, Wet only 10" segmented for my MK1080. I get okay milage out of it, say 3-4 jobs worth (mine designs tend to require many cuts)
  5. carcrz

    carcrz LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,085

    Oops. Sorry :drinkup:
  6. zedosix

    zedosix LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,665

    Pay the extra and they will last very long. I buy my 14" diamond blades for 400 a pop.
  7. Mike33

    Mike33 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,649

    Every one is going to laugh, but here goes. I bought mine from my local rental store in 02 for 165.00. I just replaced it last year and the price was the same. I only cut with this saw caps on my walls and i have built a ton of walls. Also im the only one using it. I told my guy at the rental store the mileage i got from it and he said there blades was quality, ill second that. Funny thing is i get these damn tell-marketers calling me wanting to sell me 3 blades at one time, hell at that rate i"ll be retired before im on the third blade.
  8. Grn Mtn

    Grn Mtn LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 863

    cutting curves seems to really kill the diamond grit fast.
  9. ChampionLS

    ChampionLS LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,066

    Alright! Paver Class is now in Session. :cool2:

    Here are some facts you should know about Diamond blades:

    Diamond blades are specially designed to cut through specific materials. They are also designed to be used Wet, Dry or a combination of both. The cost associated with diamond blades are the amount of actual diamond content. A more expensive blade WILL last longer and cut faster if used properly and used to cut only the material is was intended for.

    Types of Diamond blades :

    Soft Bond - The Diamond segments of the blade are made up of a soft steel matrix that wears away quickly, exposing new diamonds as it cuts. This is meant to cut HARD concrete, Concrete pavers, Concrete with Rebar, Granite etc.

    Hard Bond - The Diamond segments of the blade are made up of a hard steel matrix that wears away slowly, exposing new diamonds as it cuts. This is meant to cut SOFT concrete, Green concrete, Wall block, Clay brick, Bluestone and Limestone.

    Anything you intend to cut that's over 6000 PSI compressive strength is considered a hard material. (Concrete pavers are between 9000 and 12000!) You should almost always use a Soft Bond blade for cutting Pavingstones. Cutting retaining wall blocks or caps really won't hurt the blade, because most are on table saws, and you have adequate water to flush the fines away. Never use a blade intended for wet use dry. Alternatively, you can use a dry blade wet if needed.

    Now get to work! :drinkup:
  10. twj721

    twj721 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 619

    Oregon low-lifts & Gator Blades

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