Separate names with a comma.
Missed the live Ask the Expert event?
Catch up on the conversation with Ken Hutcheson, President of U.S. Lawns in the Franchising forum plus sign up to receive a FREE eBook on how to grow your landscape business.
Discussion in 'Original Pictures Forum' started by KC lawn guy, Feb 10, 2010.
wow thats expensive.
here is ours, when i was shopping around i had originally planned on buying a 18 or 20' long enclosed, but after going inside one i knew we needed something bigger so i bought the 24' long. 8.5' wide i think is a must b/c if you have a bagging unit on a ztr with stuff hanging on the walls, you'll have just enough room to walk in between.
i am currently working on the inside, have the trimmer and blower racks up, trimmer line holder and spare tire mounted. I still need to make the front workbench and mount up some cabinets along with shovel holders and install the rest of the e-track, when its all done ill post up some pics.
That was after tax and included a 3.5 inch drop hitch and ball and a trailer brake controller. I thought it was a good price, cheapest around here at least.
Posted via Mobile Device
heres some old pictures of mine.. i haul a 48" exmark walk behind and a 60" bad boy in it now and i definitely wish i had more room.. i would go 8x16 just for the convenience of being able to walk around stuff
Also was not saying it to be mean. I want to get one that seems like alot tho might stick with open. But its a really nice trailer i hope it serves you well.
I know that this is an old thread, but it has a lot of great ideas!
I would like to know if anyone has had their trailer wired with its own electrical system?
In my 6X12, I have to have the lights of my truck on, in order to turn on any lights INSIDE my trailer.
What I would like to do is wire it so that I don't HAVE to have the truck lights on.
I am also planning on installing a couple of work lights on the exterior of the trailer as well.
Wiring the lights themselves is not a problem for me, it is just figuring out where the actual power will come from, and how to keep it charged...(kinda how an RV trailer would work).
Any input would be GREAT!
Thanks in advance!
Chuck - Do you have an rv type plug (7 pin) - if so - there is a hot wire in that that you can raw power off of. If not - One way that I have seen it done is get a pair of quick connectors that run from the battery to the back of your truck. Then you can plug up to that connector with one mounted to the trailer. If that doesn't make sense - I will try to get you some pics. I know Copacabana has pics of his dump trailer hooked up like that.
Hope that helps some!
Thanks for the reply!
I DO have a 7-pin connector on my truck, but only a 4-pin on the trailer (I currently use an adapter).
I would like to rewire the trailer to be used by the 7-pin, and be independent from the truck's lights. This way I can turn on the interior lights and/or exterior spot lights without having to turn on my truck lights.
I was just curious if anyone else had done the same thing with their trailer, and could maybe give me some pointers?
I am wondering if I could cut the 4-pin off of the trailer wires and install a 7-pin plug on the end....but I am not sure which wire I would need to move to get the constant power, or if I would have to add a wire to the trailer to get the constant power?
you can cut it off and install a 7 the sell them at tractor supply, any trailer place, or i ordered one from etrailer.com they come with the chart to tell you what wire goes where or you can find one with a quick google search. http://www.johnsontrailerco.com/wiring_diagrams.php i found this one it should help. note that the colors are not the same from 4 to 7. I have re-wired several trailers and each trailer has its own little quirks. the most helpful tool through it is a test light. I always go through and test the truck first to make sure everything is working properly on that end then move to the trailer. I learned that one the hard way i spent a good 30 minutes trying to figure out why i couldnt get one of the trailer functions to work and come to find out it was a blown fuse in the truck i had it hooked up too overall not a tough job just take your time and double check your connections. i recommend using the heat shrink connectors to keep water and corrosion out. Let us know how you make out
Thank you so much!
So I will not have to run any additional wire, and rewiring a 4-pin to a 7-pin should do the trick?
I will let you know how it turns out once I can get around to doing it!
*CORRECTION: After reviewing the diagram you posted, I see that I will have to run an additional wire for the 12V portion of the plug.
This is not a problem as I will run it straight to the interior lights (each have a switch) and also to the exterior spotlights (which I will install a switch for each as well).
Thank you again, this is a HUGE help!