ComfortControl DD

LawnSite Member
I have a Ferris ComfortControl DD model 5900677, 48 inch deck with Kawasaki FH580V-DS35-R. I purchased the machine brand new in 2009 from a local Ferris Dealer to cut my 2 acre yard weekly.

I went out today to cut the lawn, machine started up, but won't move forwards. I shut the machine down and notice the pump drive belt extra lo0se and when I grabed the belt the pulley idler fell out.

Take a look at the pulley and the bolt. The bearing of the pulley are completely gone and the bolt, 1/2-20 x 2-1/4" has a good chunk of the head worn away. It is amazing I was able to finish cutting my lawn the week before. The mower is stored in a weather tight shed.

I looked under the machine everywhere for the bearing parts and I can not find anything pieces of the bearing.

I checked the other pulleys and they are all fine.

Does anyone have the service manual for the Ferris ComfortControl DD model 5900677 they can post online? I was looking at how to replace the pump drive belt(part 5022173) and the mower deck belt (part 5100814). Do I need to take off the PTO Clutch ?? - I hope not.

When I try to remove the mower deck belt it hits the DDS Control Shaft (part # 5402184B) Sure I can probably -pull the belt hard and get the belt between the PTO Clutch and DDS Control Shaft but with my luck I will cut the belt. See pics

For replacing the pump drive belt it sure seems like I have to at least remove the bolt that connects to the clutch anchor plate(part 5402328B). This is why I greatly appreciate the service manual if anyone has one.

Final question is who is reliable to order Ferris parts online? It doesn't seem like I can order parts directly from https://www.ferrismowers.com

I would like to place the order on Monday morning, hope the company I buy the parts from would put the order in with Ferris by the end of the business day Monday and then hope Ferris ships out in 1 to 2 business days. The local dealers around me don't stock any Ferris parts and the nearest dealer is 35 minute drive for me. Therefore it saves me time just to order online. It seems all the Ferris Dealers just order the parts directly from Ferris. I am located in Southern New Hampshire and one of the reason I bought a Ferris was the parts come out of in Upstate New York so delivery is just 1 day.

I am looking to buy

5025098 Nut-1/2-20 Hex Nylon lock

5044913 washer, Frame retaining

5021168 Insert, Bearing 1/2" Shoulder

5021002 Pulley, Idler

5025158 Washer, 1/2" SAE

5025018x18 Bolt, 1/2-20 x 2-1/4" GRD5

5022173 pump drive belt

5100814 mower deck belt


Thanks for reading my post and any advice your can offer is greatly appreciated.
 

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OP
C

ComfortControl DD

LawnSite Member
Have you looked at amazon for the parts?
It seems everything ordered from Amazon now takes so long. The other day a order an item on Amazon, Amazon said they had stock and would ship direct from day, Deliver time was 1 day and it ended up taking 1 week.

I need several parts so I prefer to order online from a Ferris Dealer. I want the genuine OEM parts. I only have 1 mower and I need to cut my lawn now. Really wish Ferris allowed end users to buy direct and then Ferris gives a commission of the sale to he local Ferris Dealer for the territory the parts were shipped to. So many companies are now going DtoC - direct to consumer.

Anyone ever buy parts from https://powermowersales.com ? They claim to be the #1 Ferris parts Dealer in their Google Ad - http://www.powermowersales.com/ferris-parts
Ferris Mower Parts In Stock - #1 Authorized Ferris Dealer

I guess they could be #1 in their city if they are the on Ferris Dealer in town

Hopefully forum members can provide who is best to order Ferris parts. They don't need to be the cheapest, they just need to be efficient processing orders and immediately sending them to Ferris.
 

Breezmeister

LawnSite Gold Member
Location
South Jersey


Google your part numbers and see who pops up.....Personally, I won't buy from Amazon or Ebay.
.
 
OP
C

ComfortControl DD

LawnSite Member
Looks like an idler........same design as scag....no need to remove belt
No - I need to remove the belt since the inside of the belt has a large cut. My guess is when I started the motor, the motor spin the pulley connected to the crankshaft, that advanced the belt and the belt was cut by the other idler pulley that was damaged.

To replace the drive belt I don't need to take the PTO off but I do need to disconnect the wiring harness from the PTO to install the new drive belt.

I wrote another post how I can't decouple molex connector at https://www.lawnsite.com/threads/what-is-the-best-method-to-decouple-molex-connector.506060/

I have tried everything to separate the molex connector with no luck so my last resort is to cut the 2 wires coming off the pto and then crimp the wires back together. I was thinking of soldering the wires but with the mower vibrations I think crimping wires is best. Car and truck wiring harnesses are usually always crimped verses soldered since again soldered wires don't hold up good with vibrations.

I don't want to break the molex connector and then need to replace the molex connector. It is easy to just cut the 2 wires coming off the PTO.

FYI - I bought my parts from https://www.propartsdirect.net They are very close to me and were very good. I hope to get the parts in the next few days since they had to order from Ferris.
 

Dawson

LawnSite Bronze Member
Location
Valrico, FL
Your mower must have sounded horrible with that idler basically just spinning on the bolt head. You can usually hear it when a pulley bearing is starting to go long before the bearing actually falls apart like that. Never dismiss it when something doesn't sound right on your mower, it's trying to let you know something isn't right.

That said it sounds like you have everything in hand for the repair....I would work a little longer on getting that molex connector disconnected before cutting the wires though....there is probably just a catch you aren't pushing or pulling just right that will release it.
 
OP
C

ComfortControl DD

LawnSite Member
Your mower must have sounded horrible with that idler basically just spinning on the bolt head. You can usually hear it when a pulley bearing is starting to go long before the bearing actually falls apart like that. Never dismiss it when something doesn't sound right on your mower, it's trying to let you know something isn't right.

That said it sounds like you have everything in hand for the repair....I would work a little longer on getting that molex connector disconnected before cutting the wires though....there is probably just a catch you aren't pushing or pulling just right that will release it.
Thanks for your feedback.

I wear good ear plugs so I didn't hear anything unusually but I now think about it and I guess I heard a little something when I shutdown the machine. I am just amaze the idler would spin on that bolt head which is a grade 5 bolt and eat away half the bolt head. The other amazing thing was I was able to finish cutting my 2 acre lawn last week and just notice the component failure when I went to start cutting my lawn this week.

Regarding the molex connector I have a small screwdriver under the latch. I sprayed the connection with "liquid wrench" similar to PB Blaster. I am letting it soak since my parts haven't came in yet. Once I get the parts I need to install them and cut the lawn so if the molex connection doesn't separate I have to cut the wires.

Looking under my mower with a magnifier on the molex connection it almost seems like one of the "male pins" is split in half and this is preventing it from being released from the female connection. I rather not break the molex connector and then go searching for another molex connector and replacing any female or male pins. The easiest option is just to cut the wires and then crimp the 2 wires together.
 

Breezmeister

LawnSite Gold Member
Location
South Jersey
When you get it separated, spray it with some Fluid Film or use some dielectric grease. If on the chance that you do break the connection, you might find it on Radioshack.com. or you can try NAPA.
.
 
OP
C

ComfortControl DD

LawnSite Member
If I am successful in opening the molex connector I will use dielectric grease. I actually called Ferris technical support and asked Ferris if they use dielectric grease on all their connections and they said NO.

I asked about the molex connector I am having problems with and Ferris said they don't use dielectric grease on the connection. since it isn't prone to a lot of dust and dirt.

I know Ferris does use dielectric grease on the PTO engagement switch since I did replace that switch last year. I also noticed dielectric grease on many of their safety switches.

I really think I won't be able to separate/decouple the Molex connector and will just cut the two[2] wires off the PTO clutch and then crimp the cut wires together.

I'll find out tomorrow if my parts come in.

Thanks for everyone's input.
 

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