What IS this grass? Help!

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by springbok, Jun 13, 2007.

  1. springbok

    springbok LawnSite Member
    Messages: 4

    2 Questions!

    1. Can anyone identify these three grasses? (pictures below numbered 1 to 3)They are going mad in this heat and wrecking my lawn. I am in PA and the temp has been around 80 degrees for a month or so.

    2. What's is the best plan of attack to get rid of these by next season? Dimension did not seem to work.

    Many Thanks


    Grass types at 1047 2007 001.jpg

    Grass types at 1047 2007 002.jpg

    Grass types at 1047 2007 003.jpg
  2. upidstay

    upidstay LawnSite Bronze Member
    from CT
    Messages: 1,600

    #1 is Timothy
  3. springbok

    springbok LawnSite Member
    Messages: 4

    Timothy? - not green foxtail? how do I get rid of it?!
  4. Tony Clifton

    Tony Clifton LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 865

    3 looks like it could be rye grass.
  5. RAlmaroad

    RAlmaroad LawnSite Silver Member
    from SC
    Messages: 2,262

    #2 is orchardgrass. These are all good grasses for cooler temp. However they are pasture grasses. What is you lawn? both Timothy and Orchard grass goes well in K31-Fescue, though a bit course.
  6. springbok

    springbok LawnSite Member
    Messages: 4

    Thanks for the replies. So I suppose Dimension will not help me here? It just looks a mess!

    The seed my builders used 2 yrs ago was :

    Tall Fescue (60%).
    Fescue (10%)
    Annual Rye Grass (10%)
    Perennial Rye Grass (10%)
    Kentucky Blue Grass (10%)

  7. RAlmaroad

    RAlmaroad LawnSite Silver Member
    from SC
    Messages: 2,262

    All of those grasses are heading--why at this time of year? Are you mowing them? Those grasses are good with your mix. You won't be able to tell tall fescue from Orchard grass when they are all mowed the same. I'd leave them alone and let them fill in. If you're establishing a lawn, then let them grow, don't mow for two weeks. The taller the grass the deeper the roots. Sounds crazy but it's the truth. After you grass begins to fill in and become even then you can step up your mowing cycle. Do not over feed either with nitrogen. Give the yard a extra shot of potash (Potassium) which will stimulate the roots. When those roots get matted, weeds won't have a chance. This fall, I would not mow unitil the first frost is anticipated. Let the grass seed head and the seed fall to the ground for sproting next spring.
    Use no dimension until late spring, thus giving those fallen seeds a chance to sprout. Again contrary to what most would suggest, but my lawn in SC as well as in TN is as thick as carpet. Do what you think but give this theory so though also. Right now my yard in TN has not had rain for 5 weeks and is drying up but the high lawn has helped it through the drought by shading the soil. Of course the SC lawn is irrigated and sorta the envy of the neighborhood. Use a little N in mid summer and a little more about the end of August for storage in the roots for the next spring. No N from Sept-Mar.
  8. RAlmaroad

    RAlmaroad LawnSite Silver Member
    from SC
    Messages: 2,262

    Could you post a photo? It would help with advice.

    DUSTYCEDAR LawnSite Fanatic
    from PA
    Messages: 5,132

    a pic of the lawn area would help alot
  10. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,906

    No ryegrass in the pics. #1 looks like foxtail.

    Myself i would not let them grow tall. You don't get much self-seeding. If you mow regularly--it results in more sideways growth--more thickening--more tillers per square foot.

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