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What whould I do to get this lawn going? (PICS)

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by Terra-Scapes, Sep 18, 2006.

  1. Terra-Scapes

    Terra-Scapes LawnSite Member
    Messages: 46

    The customer that owns this house wants to overseed this fall and get the lawn back to looking nice. The yard is mostly broadleaf weeds and grassy weeds with a little grass mixed in. Part of the yard gets about 8 hrs of sunlight and the rest get less than that.

    What would be a good seed that will germinate and grow in shady to partial shady areas?

    Here are my two approaches to this lawn:

    1. Spray lawn with Round Up Pro (in other words nuke the lawn) and wait 4-5 days then rake the yard hard and aerate/fert/seed.

    2. Spray with Speedzone, wait two weeks, then aerate/fert/seed.

    Pictures are in this thread: http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=160058 towards the bottom of page.
  2. cemars

    cemars LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 387

  3. Runner

    Runner LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,497

    Wow, you are needing some help. The front yard isn't to bad. I would certainly suggest spraying with a selective, and adding a muriate of potash at this stage. Normally, I would suggest a sulphate form of potash, but as we are reaching cooler weather now, you are safer. You can still overseed (mixing) some seed in near the curb and outer edges if you like, but the rest will fill right out with the right nutrients.
    For the side, you are out of luck, I think. What side of the house is this? North? Betwen the height of the house, and the trees on the side, you'd be better off with a ground cover, or a walk through shade garden.
    With the back yard, it looks like it has been smothered out with mulched leaves (by the close up photos). In this case, no matter what you do, take some soil samples and check the PH. The reason I say this, is because by the looks of the trees around there, it appears that there is potentially alot of acidic trees around there. In this case, the necessary amendment are going to need to be made (and made again). I hope this helps.
  4. Terra-Scapes

    Terra-Scapes LawnSite Member
    Messages: 46

    Thanks for the the info Joe I really appreciate it.

    At this stage, from what i've gathered, I will start with spraying Drive 75 then wait 7 days (as per the Drive 75 instructions) before I aerate and spread a mix of muriate potash and seed.

    The only remain question I have is what loading of fertilizer (i.e. 0-0-0 ?) should use? I a plan on apply 3 application this fall one this month, one Oct., and one Nov.

  5. ThreeWide

    ThreeWide LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,116

    Use a starter now like 18-24-12, then in the next two apps give it plenty of N such as 32-5-7 or similar. FWIW, the Lebanon 25-2-5 is fantastic on Fescue in the Fall.
  6. RyanD

    RyanD LawnSite Member
    Messages: 178

    Runner, I have heard you talk many times about how to thicken up grass with LOTS of potash. What is a lot?
  7. vegomatic40

    vegomatic40 LawnSite Senior Member
    from 6
    Messages: 406

    I'm not sure I would use any non-selectives or, selectives at this point. Since the lawn is so shady the existing turf is established and would serve no benefit by spraying Glyphosate. The coming frosts will take care of the crabgrass and broadleaf weeds can be controlled later next spring. Take a soil test (soils in the Atlanta area are typically low-pH) and get your seed started ASAP. Applying selectives would delay seeding or interfere with proper germination and/or developement. Apply selectives next spring along with pre-emergents. Inform your customer to be patient, this lawn didn't get this way in short time and it may take several months to renovate. If the pH is way out of wack, you might use Solu-Cal to improve it quickly. Just my 2 cents.

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