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what would u do

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by jbturf, May 15, 2008.

  1. jbturf

    jbturf LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,502

    so i show up at a scheduled job today- 300k' detached
    condo community to do their 1st treatment of
    fert + dimension . this is a previous customer (of 5 years now)
    and working with the same landscaper. This is mostly all open
    sun, lots of hots spots(walks,drives, roads)-and i rate this property
    a 4 on a 1-5 scale of difficulty treating(1 least-5 most)

    i find that the place has been seeded all over in small random patches
    spots-- it looked like the scaper fixed plow damage, filled in small
    ruts and holes everywhere and there were new underground electric
    trenched thru the whole place

    ive had excellent communication and experience with this scaper,
    especially every spring , he has me do 1 st treatment , then he loams
    and seeds spots as needed after

    but any way-
    what would you do here?
    is there any possible good outcome?
    i felt like calling and canceling the acct when
    i pulled in this morning
  2. humble1

    humble1 LawnSite Silver Member
    from MA
    Messages: 2,519

    if you cant get dimension down , see if you canup sell to tupersan, if not starter fert only. If you had good control over the past 5 crabgrass should be minimal
  3. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,727

    Tupersan--too expensive. Starter fert--too expensive (this year). I would go with plain fert of high quality 24-5-11 for instance. Unless---you had a lot of crabgrass last year. If lots of crab last year, wait two weeks for grass to come up and treat with Fert/dimension. Take your chances. Tell them to seed in fall if any spots do not take.

    Can you do this treatment with liquid Dimension with a skid sprayer--easy to skip new seed that way.

    I hate when this happens--but--usually the seed takes fairly good--if its good seed and it if is watered regularly.
  4. mngrassguy

    mngrassguy LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,167

    I would just avoid those areas the best you can. End result should be you'll use less fert. Thats not your fault. Pays the same.
  5. Grandview

    Grandview LawnSite Gold Member
    from WI
    Messages: 3,251

    I would switch to straight fertilizer.
  6. (wi) Roots

    (wi) Roots LawnSite Member
    from 9
    Messages: 152

    What type of grass are you managing?
  7. mngrassguy

    mngrassguy LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,167

    What difference does it make?
  8. garydale

    garydale LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 813

    I would go with straight fertilizer with maybe "Tupersan" for very special areas.(rental office or main entrance)
    Stay on top of the crab with post herb. like "Drive".
    I'm thinking if the site has been crab-free for years you will be OK. IMO
  9. jbturf

    jbturf LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,502

    thanks for the replies,
    as to turf type- Kbg,Pr rye,fine fescue, some tall fescue
    invading from surrounding horse pastures

    anyway, after some thought and phone call
    my best judgement was to apply fert + dimension
    as usual on this property

    please dont beat me up on this --as we all have different
    some of my reasoning
    -this property still has some crabgrass issues in the hotspots
    -the property is always mowed too short and clippings bagged
    -there is minimal/no thatch layer on most of this property
    - a very lackluster poorly maintained sprinkler system with poor coverage
    -its a very difficult property too maintain, between slopes, beds, plantings etc..
    -$$ is an issue for this acct
    -i would be forced to eat the crabgrass post spray
    -this was not my fault

    theres not much more to say i guess

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