# Whats going on with this yard?

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by gulfjoe, Sep 15, 2013.

1. ### gulfjoeLawnSite Bronze Memberfrom Columbus GAMessages: 1,638

Here was my orginal soil test when i bought my home. This was Late january 2012.

2. ### SkipsterLawnSite Bronze Memberfrom Billings, MTMessages: 1,075

You don't have to buy a Lesco spreader -- any working spreader will do. All you have to do is calibrate it. Simply:

1) Weigh out some amount (any amount you want) in a bucket. If you don't have a scale that can weigh out 10# or so, stand on your bathroom scale and weigh yourself with the empty bucket and with the full bucket.

2) Measure out a length (at least 20 ft, just to give you some room) in your driveway.

3) Put weighed amount of fert into spreader and run over this length with gate open.

4) Measure the width of the spread swath (how far left and right it threw the fert). Multiply this by the length to get the area you covered.

5) Dump the remaining fert in the spreader back into your bucket, step on the scale, and subtract it from your weight with the full bucket from when you started. This tells you how much you used.

Now, you have the weight of fert you used over the square footage of the area. Using these numbers, you can calculate how much fert your spreader puts out and adjust it up or down accordingly. Just remember to sweep the fert up off the driveway (put it back in the spreader) and enjoy fertilizing your lawn!

3. ### RigglePLCLawnSite Fanaticfrom Grand Rapids MIMessages: 13,568

Skip is right.
You don't have to empty the fert into a bucket to weigh yourself each time. Lift up the spreader and step onto the scale. Of course, now you can't see the numbers; get your wife to read the dial.

If you cannot get a helpful person the read the dial...lift the spreader behind you at the small of your back...also difficult. Need to be a contortionist. You will find a way to weigh it.
Readjust until you apply the correct rate three times in a row. Remember with a rotary spreader, the outer edges of the pattern are thinner; this allows for a 30 percent overlap. Plan on about a 7 or 8 foot swath width.

4. ### gulfjoeLawnSite Bronze Memberfrom Columbus GAMessages: 1,638

Having trouble finding lime that is not Dolomite... I am going to call a few other places.

5. ### SkipsterLawnSite Bronze Memberfrom Billings, MTMessages: 1,075

There's nothing wrong with dolomitic lime -- its still going to do the job you need it to.

The biggest difference between dolomitic lime and calcitic lime is that the dolomitic source has Mg, but the calcitic source does not. If you need more Mg, dolomitic lime can help you with that. If you already have enough Mg, dolomitic lime isn't going to hurt.

You just don't want to pay for nutrient you don't need. If you have a choice between calcitic and dolomitic, take the cheaper one. If a dolomite is all you can find, have at it!

BTW, follow the liming recommendation on your soil test. All grasses prefer slightly acidic soils. Ideal pH is between 5.5 and 6.5, and you're test is not far from that. Keep in mind, too, that a pH change usually takes a while -- you won't make it happen in a couple applications, or even a couple of seasons. You'll probably have to lime for a few years to acheive an ideal pH range.

6. ### gulfjoeLawnSite Bronze Memberfrom Columbus GAMessages: 1,638

Yeah when I bought the home in January 2012 I tested and I had a ph of 4.9, I have done to apps of dolomite lime 40lb per 1000 each time to get it where it's at today.
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7. ### SkipsterLawnSite Bronze Memberfrom Billings, MTMessages: 1,075

Sounds like you're doing the right thing and making progress!

8. ### Will P.C.LawnSite Senior MemberMessages: 966

I like to hit my yard in mid Sept (when grass growth starts to slow) with a heavy app of Milorganite. When mid october rolls around and other yard and starting to thin and brown, I still have a vibrant green with just a hint of brown.