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When is it time to throw away your blades

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by Quail Creek LC, Jul 6, 2002.

  1. Quail Creek LC

    Quail Creek LC LawnSite Member
    from IOWA
    Messages: 155

    Well, how do you guys know when its time to get rid of your old blades. Just curious what everyone thinks.
  2. Ax Man

    Ax Man LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 446

    I read somwhere that when the lift part gets under 1/8" thick.
    I personally wait till the groove is about to wear through at the end of the blade.
    Any bent blades are junked.
  3. awm

    awm LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,354

    if im in doubt ,i put a new set on.
    if theres a better cut it was time,and u need exstra blds anyway.jmho
  4. Bassman

    Bassman LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 270

    The advice about the groove at the end of blades is a good tip. You may have to work your grinder a little more when the edge gets below 1/4" but at the cost of blades it can save you $$ over time. When the groove wears thru, (will split the metal), they are done. This usually happens like the other poster says when the edge is nearing 1/8".
  5. Tvov

    Tvov LawnSite Bronze Member
    from CT
    Messages: 1,157

    Usually when my mowers start "striping", leaving a thin line of uncut grass, it means they need new blades. I always keep one set of "old" blades for each mower at the shop as backup in case one of the crew try to chop rocks in half with one of the mowers.
  6. rodfather

    rodfather LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 9,501

    I heave 'em when the ends get rounded off...or when one of my employees makes them look like a boomerang...which ever comes first!
  7. FrankenScagMachines

    FrankenScagMachines LawnSite Platinum Member
    from IN
    Messages: 4,739

    When they are either rounded on the end, or won't hold a sharp edge. Never had them wear through near the lift. I EXTREMELY HIGHLY RECOMMEND having them sharpened by somone who has a sharpening machine, it will come out at the original angle and be razor sharp, and hold a much better edge (more time between sharpenings). This is usually about $4-6 per blade. I know it could be cheaper doing it yourself but you would have to take the time and bother and it's still not right in the end. You will end up taking more off than the good sharpeners and it still isn't as good of an edge. Keep two or three sets around at a time, then you can have a set on the mower at all times, have a back up set handy at the truck or trailer, sharp, and always have one of those pairs in the shop at all times (they usually can't sharpen them immediatly so count on a few days wait). That's what most LCO's here do. I work P/T for a repair shop and the guy got one of those sharpeners this year and he wouldn't ever go back to a grinder. He makes more money per blade, takes less time, gets better results, than doing it with a regular grinder. So since I work for him, when I go there I take off my blade and take it with me. So I only have one on hand (don't do alot of lawns anyhow). He docks what it's worth ($4) off of my pay and we're both happy.
  8. Mark

    Mark LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 723

    This is a little off topic but i ordered a set of Raptor Marbain Mulching Blades and ran them for 5-min they cut something awful, Ill try a give them away if not ill throw them away. Marks Mowing Service
  9. TLS

    TLS LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,943

    When they look like the rusted one in this picture.

    The edge gets worn back, and it has big gouges in the blade. Anytime the effective length of the blade shortens, your cut quality suffers.

    The old rusted blade measures 20-1/4" long tip to tip.

    The new blade measures 20-9/16" long tip to tip.

    Big difference in cut quality.

    I save the old ones in case I need to mow a field or a rough lot.

  10. TFL

    TFL LawnSite Member
    Messages: 210

    i go through a bout a set a week on each mower mowing bahia on my large accounts. have to be sharpened one to two times a day though

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