i would go with tall fescue and rye grass. Do you get a lot of traffic back their? If not maybe fine fescue. I know central ill gets some good heat to and fine fescue does bad in the heat when traffic is on it.

 

If their is a good deal of shade still after the trees have been prunned do a ryegrass/fine fescue mix. If their is a good deal of sunlight go with the tall fescue/rye

 

Tombo is right. But I would forget the fine fescue--it has less shade tolerance than advertised, cannot tolerate heat or traffic. This situation is going to be a toughie. Grass will always be weak in a shade situation. Consider stepping stones or concrete pavers to absorb the heaviest traffic. Consider top quality mixture of rye, and tall fescue, then add bluegrass because of its better creeping action and rapid recuperation from injury. Best rye in Illinois is "Silver Dollar", best bluegrass in the trials was "Shiraz", best tall fescue was "Essential". All according to National Turf Evaluation Program at the Illinois site, Carbondale. Try to find varieties almost as good if there is a shortage of top varieties. You need 6 hours of direct sun per day to grow high quality grass.

 

My step dad said a turn type tall fescue would be good since it holds up to traffic pretty well and doesn't do too bad in shady areas. What do you think??

As far as the different types, do I just buy bags of each one and mix them together or are they sold in these mixtures??
Also, where is a good place to buy them? Should I avoid the big box stores (lowe's, Home depot)
Is there any particular brand I should get or does it really matter??

 

My step dad said a turn type tall fescue would be good since it holds up to traffic pretty well and doesn't do too bad in shady areas. What do you think??

As far as the different types, do I just buy bags of each one and mix them together or are they sold in these mixtures??
Also, where is a good place to buy them? Should I avoid the big box stores (lowe's, Home depot)
Is there any particular brand I should get or does it really matter??

They sell mixtures of different types. Just make sure its primarily fescue and rye. You can also try mixing the two together thats what I do at my house. In terms of which company is better then the other Im not entirely sure of that. Just make sure when you buy the seed check to see if its poa annua free or not, and what percent of noxious weeds are in the seed to.

 

lucky,
Tall fescue is tough (at least the higher quality types) but it has no ability to creep. If it gets thin, it will not creep to fill in bare spots--hardly at all. So you should add Kentucky bluegrass to give the mixture the ability to heal itself. Check this list of 10 seeds to avoid:
http://seedsuperstore.wordpress.com/2008/07/04/top-10-list-of-seed-to-avoid-in-2008/ avoid

And here is the link to a big online seed dealer:
https://www.seedsuperstore.com/Default.asp

If you don't intend to buy online, then get Scotts "Pure Premium" types. Maybe mix their best tall fescue blend and their "Pure Premium Sun and Shade" blend (which contains rye, blue, and fine fescue).

Scotts makes an inferior quality blend that it sells only at Home Depot and discount stores--avoid it.

Keep the lawn well-watered and well-fertilized and it will hold up better under the traffic. Shade plus traffic is problematical.

 

So if I do a mixture of say Rye, Ky Bluegrass, & Tall Fescue it should do well for my situation?? As far as the fescue goes, should I go with a turf type tall fescue??

I also have no idea about fertilizers ... Can you help with that too??

 

So if I do a mixture of say Rye, Ky Bluegrass, & Tall Fescue it should do well for my situation?? As far as the fescue goes, should I go with a turf type tall fescue??

I also have no idea about fertilizers ... Can you help with that too??

Just buy a straight turf type tall fescue,it regenerates pretty well and it can stand up to traffic.It will have a mix of a few different types of fescues and a little rye in it.I use Lesco or Southern Gold,both are great.

But honestly,there is nothing you can do to keep the dogs from killing the lawn with piss.If you have 3 of them its gonna be an up hill battle Im telling you.

There are a variety of products out there that you can put in ther food or water to help,but good luck doing that every day.Its also a little on the expensive side.

Only other way is to follow them around and dilute it with water right after they go.

Otherwise you should have a lot of top soil/fertilizer/seed mix ready,because there is gonna be brown spots all over the lawn.Remember once the urine soak in the dirt the soil on the top layers is destroyed and the seed wont grown unless you mix the top layers up and replace with a quality soil.

As far as fertilizer just get any starter fertilizer and use as instructed.

 

Yeah I figured I wasn't going to be able to avoid brown/bare spots from where they urinate. I can deal with that, I just want some grass back there!!! LOL I'm going to check the local farm store, wal mart, and Ace today to see what they have. The big box stores are about a 30 min drive from me so i'll save them for last and also check on the place RigglePLC gave me a link for.
A couple more questions:
-When should I put down fertilizer?? Before, during, or after?
-Someone mentioned triple 12 fertilizer, is this something I should get or avoid?
-I don't want have to till up my whole yard, is it ok to spread the seed after a light raking just to loosen up the top soil??

 

Yeah I figured I wasn't going to be able to avoid brown/bare spots from where they urinate. I can deal with that, I just want some grass back there!!! LOL I'm going to check the local farm store, wal mart, and Ace today to see what they have. The big box stores are about a 30 min drive from me so i'll save them for last and also check on the place RigglePLC gave me a link for.
A couple more questions:
-When should I put down fertilizer?? Before, during, or after?
-Someone mentioned triple 12 fertilizer, is this something I should get or avoid?
-I don't want have to till up my whole yard, is it ok to spread the seed after a light raking just to loosen up the top soil??

Put down starter fertilizer with the seed,not regular fertilizer.

Triple 12 is a plant fertilizer,do not use it on your lawn.

Ace hardware I think carries the "Garden Weasel" it is perfect for tilling up small areas.It looks like 3 spike balls on the end of a handle,and it works much better for this situation than a rake would.

Actually just checked and yes they carry it...

http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com/garden-weasel-cultivator-56-long-p-89698.html?ref=42

Its a good tool because you really have to mix that dirt up when you replant,that piss really messes the top few inches up.

Use the garden weasel and some new top soil and you should be fine.

Make sure you keep the area wet for 2 weeks,or the seed will not grow in right.

 

I have a garden weasel. I used it when we were in our last house to hit bare spots before seeding from the previous owners that had some kid playsets back there. Worked perfect for loosening up the soil. Problem is I would be a weaseling maniac for my situation now. Basically the whole back yard (approx 70'x30') needs to be seeded. That would take DAYS!!! LOL Thats why I was asking about the raking since I will have to do that anyway. There are a lot of sticks and stuff back there now.

 

I have a garden weasel. I used it when we were in our last house to hit bare spots before seeding from the previous owners that had some kid playsets back there. Worked perfect for loosening up the soil. Problem is I would be a weaseling maniac for my situation now. Basically the whole back yard (approx 70'x30') needs to be seeded. That would take DAYS!!! LOL Thats why I was asking about the raking since I will have to do that anyway. There are a lot of sticks and stuff back there now.

I mean just for repairing the piss spots with the weasal,not the whole yard!

You didnt mention the whole yard needed to be seeded,what does it look like now?

Is there any growth or is it pretty bare? Any weeds? Full sun/partial?

 

I thought I mentioned the whole yard...maybe not. Yeah the whole thing needs to be seeded. It's probably 95% bare if not more, and mostly shade (well right now it gets light but once the leaves grow back it will be mostly shade) I'm going to have the trees trimmed in the next few months to let some sunlight back there because right now it's almost non existent because of a huge tree and lots of several other small trees.

 

I thought I mentioned the whole yard...maybe not. Yeah the whole thing needs to be seeded. It's probably 95% bare if not more, and mostly shade (well right now it gets light but once the leaves grow back it will be mostly shade) I'm going to have the trees trimmed in the next few months to let some sunlight back there because right now it's almost non existent because of a huge tree and lots of several other small trees.

If you can post a picture maybe I can help you out.

I wouldnt recommend seeding if it is 95% bare,but I dont know what type of budget you are on.

Sod is the way to go if you can,much less hassle especially for someone who isnt really familiar with what they are doing.

 

I'll try and get a pic and post it up sometime today. How much does sod go for??? The rough size is 70'x30' so approx 2100 sq ft.

 

I'll try and get a pic and post it up sometime today. How much does sod go for??? The rough size is 70'x30' so approx 2100 sq ft.

If you get it from a sod farm without a commercial account they will probably charge you about $180 per pallet (usually 500 sq ft).Need it delivered another $200 probably.Fertilizer $25.Could put it down yourself in one long day..

Water the hell out of it for 2-3 weeks,and waaalah you have a lawn that looks like its been there for 10 years.

Definitely cost more than seed,but worth every penny if you have had experience trying to start a lawn from dirt with seed.Mow it the right heiggt and you will be amazed what it looks like when it grows in in a month or two.

Lets just say its not quite as simple,especially for the novice.

 

So i'm looking at roughly $1000 to have the back yard sodded.... I'll try seeding it myself and see how that goes before I shell out that kinda $$. Especially since I've paid about $14,000 in the past 6 months for a new furnace and windows.....LOL The beautiful yard might have to wait a bit....

 

So i'm looking at roughly $1000 to have the back yard sodded.... I'll try seeding it myself and see how that goes before I shell out that kinda $$. Especially since I've paid about $14,000 in the past 6 months for a new furnace and windows.....LOL The beautiful yard might have to wait a bit....

If you seed its going to be a much longer but cheaper alternative.You will probably have to do it a few times to get it all grown in,and control weeds at the same time.

If you get quality seed it shouldn't cost more than a few hundred bucks from start to finish.

 

Hmmm decisions decisions..... I think i'll probably go with the cheaper route to start off with and see how it goes. Now all I have to do is get me some seed!!

 

Hmmm decisions decisions..... I think i'll probably go with the cheaper route to start off with and see how it goes. Now all I have to do is get me some seed!!

And fertilizer!

Good Luck!

 

the other thing you have to take into consideration is your competing big time with trees. With the shade given off by them, and their ability to suck the water out of soil, its going to be a battle. If the yard doesnt get atleast 4 or 5 hours of sun your going to have some sparse needle like grass do to photosynthesis can not occur as well. Trees are the number one contender for turf. Usually if you have a lot of trees your turf suffers, so you have to decide which you want, more trees or good turf.

 

the other thing you have to take into consideration is your competing big time with trees. With the shade given off by them, and their ability to suck the water out of soil, its going to be a battle. If the yard doesnt get atleast 4 or 5 hours of sun your going to have some sparse needle like grass do to photosynthesis can not occur as well. Trees are the number one contender for turf. Usually if you have a lot of trees your turf suffers, so you have to decide which you want, more trees or good turf.

Tombo......Hi

 

lol, whats up timbo, haha

 

lol, whats up timbo, haha

Nice to see you on here Tom. Your going to be a great addition here. Call me after work tomorrow:drinkup:

 

the other thing you have to take into consideration is your competing big time with trees. With the shade given off by them, and their ability to suck the water out of soil, its going to be a battle. If the yard doesnt get atleast 4 or 5 hours of sun your going to have some sparse needle like grass do to photosynthesis can not occur as well. Trees are the number one contender for turf. Usually if you have a lot of trees your turf suffers, so you have to decide which you want, more trees or good turf.

So even if I trim them way back to allow sunlight back there, the roots are still going to be hindering the grass growing... That could be why there isn't any back there now except for a few patches....