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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Kawasaki FX691v and during the day the battery started dying, blades stopped, had to jump to get it home. From my investigations, battery is good and stator is putting out good AC voltage (34v)....I checked the voltage from the regulator to battery and because it was showing battery voltage at full throttle, I replaced regulator / rectifier . I bought cheap regulator due to time, nothing changed so went with Kawasaki part and now I have 19.5 - 20v at full throttle coming from the regulator going to the battery. From my research it should be between 13 - 15 volts. I am assuming this is way overcharging. So was looking to see if anyone would be kind enough to help a man in need with your wisdom?

Thanks!!
Dan
 

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That is over charging.
Test at the battery while it is running and see what it reads. Those solid state regulators are weird. If no battery is attached to them, they put out stupid high voltage, or none at all. I’m betting you will find only nominal voltage at the battery. If so, you have a bad wire or connection. Also note, those R/R’s have to be grounded well. If not they do not function properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That is over charging.
Test at the battery while it is running and see what it reads. Those solid state regulators are weird. If no battery is attached to them, they put out stupid high voltage, or none at all. I’m betting you will find only nominal voltage at the battery. If so, you have a bad wire or connection. Also note, those R/R’s have to be grounded well. If not they do not function properly.
Hey, thanks for the response. Went out just now and started mower, full throttle, and the battery read 12.6v on the meter. That is basically just battery voltage. Also, I do have a separate ground wire that I ran from the engine to one of the screws that holds the R/R onto the engine case for ground, do you think that is ok? Based on what you said, sounds like a wiring issue or harness?
Is there any other tests to methods to bypass the wiring harness to confirm?

Thanks again for your time, I do appreciate it.
Dan
 

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The extra ground wire you added is totally fine, although not likely necessary. I’ve never seen a case where I couldn’t get the R/R to ground in its original location and needed to install a permanent wire.

As a test, make a jumper wire and hook it to the 12V output on the R/R and attach the other end to the battery positive. Use at least a 12 ga wire.
Most likely point of failure is on the battery cable end. I don’t know on that machine if the charge wire junctions at the battery terminal, or at the stater/solenoid. It’s one or the other. It could possibly junction at the ignition switch, but unlikely on that machine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The extra ground wire you added is totally fine, although not likely necessary. I’ve never seen a case where I couldn’t get the R/R to ground in its original location and needed to install a permanent wire.

As a test, make a jumper wire and hook it to the 12V output on the R/R and attach the other end to the battery positive. Use at least a 12 ga wire.
Most likely point of failure is on the battery cable end. I don’t know on that machine if the charge wire junctions at the battery terminal, or at the stater/solenoid. It’s one or the other. It could possibly junction at the ignition switch, but unlikely on that machine.
Ok, that test sounds great, I am assuming that I am bypassing the existing wiring/harness, is that correct? And if I might ask, once I've done that how would I test that jumper wire to see if the problem is in the wiring and not the R/R. Also to answer your question, when the wire from the output on the R/R leaves, it goes to a wire harness and looks like it might go to the solenoid. Could solenoid be a problem, or not likely?
I also hooked my meter to the output wire on the R/R (and ground to neg on battery) and turned the key and got 12.5 volts, so could I infer that my ignition switch is ok?
Thanks again for helping me problem solve!! FYI it is a Toro Z Master
Dan
 

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Before I answer all those questions, does this machine have a charge indicator? If so, is it an ammeter, or a voltage gauge? It makes a big difference. Assuming not, or you would have known it wasn’t charging.
 

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Also, I did a quick search for a wiring diagram for the Toro Z Master..... I don't have the year or serial number of your machine, but all schematics show a fuse in the charge circuit between the R/R and the ignition switch, which is where it would seem that the charge wire terminates at. Did you check the fuse??
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Also, I did a quick search for a wiring diagram for the Toro Z Master..... I don't have the year or serial number of your machine, but all schematics show a fuse in the charge circuit between the R/R and the ignition switch, which is where it would seem that the charge wire terminates at. Did you check the fuse??
Sorry for not putting that in the original post!! I will get that information, I do know the Model #74593

I did make a jumper wire from the output of the R/R and ran it directly to +pos on the battery. I then put the probe on the wire and found it to be generating 14.5 volts. I believe that is an acceptable range of not overcharging, is that correct?

Thanks again, you've been great.
Dan
 

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Sorry for not putting that in the original post!! I will get that information, I do know the Model #74593

I did make a jumper wire from the output of the R/R and ran it directly to +pos on the battery. I then put the probe on the wire and found it to be generating 14.5 volts. I believe that is an acceptable range of not overcharging, is that correct?

Thanks again, you've been great.
Dan
Yes, that voltage is correct. 14.5 is perfect.
Now you just need to find the break in the original wire or the bad connection. That part I can’t help with much. Trace it down and check for breaks in the wire, poor connections, or a blown fuse. If you get stuck again, ask questions, but now you know what you are looking for.
 
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