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Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by DieselDeere, Aug 18, 2003.
How much CFM is needed to properly winterize a 1" 13 GPM sprinkler line?
Speaking of winterizations, what kind of compressors does everyone have? One of the pull behinders? Or a different one?
We rent a pull behind compressor. Commercial grade. Does the job very well.
Also, on the same subject.....how do you guys schedule your winterizations?
Do you tell folks to expect you on a certain day during a certain block of time? Better for it to be too warm than to get a freeze while they wait?
Do you call them the night before to let them know you are coming? Around here, most folks need to be home due to crawlspace.
Seems like there is a very small window of opportunity and a fine line between blowing out too early and waiting too long. My guess is that waiting too long would be bad but blowing out too early wouldn't necessarily be a bad thing.
I am asking because the Colorado Branch of SSi is about to begin. I have found an experienced tech that wants to work for me/with me and we will agressively market some blow-outs here in the next week - 3 weeks in hopes that we can build a small client base rapidly. I plan to be up and running in the spring....hopefully going gangbusters!
Anyone want to try and talk me out of it?
Tony- I've found that there is a good 6 week window here in Colorado Springs for doing blowouts. Many people will shut down there system and drain the PVB during a cold snap and then start it back up a few days later. I've blown out systems as late as December 1 because of this.
I schedule new blowout customers with an exact time (well , within 30 minutes or so)
Most existing blowout customers will turn off the sprinkler valve inside so that I can blow-out there system at my convience--this really helps to schedule new ones on an exact time if I am in there area.
I do have existing blow-out customers that I have to schedule a time with since they are "hands-off" when it comes to there sprinkler system.
I've also blown out systems as early as September 30th or so.
RV, you mean 10 CFM at the blow out preesure right?
Ive got only a handful of clients here in Wilson, NC that actually like to have their systems 'blown out' (ive installed 3/4" toro quick couplers right after the meter in a valve box). And i use just a little pancake air compressor which does a great job. But the area's frost line isnt that deep, the rest of out clients that i perform winterizations for just consist of turning off the meter and draining the backflow, which is installed on PVC unions, then reinstalling it. We have around 100 clients that we do this for. I only have only a couple that dont care about spending the money for winterization!.
I replaced about 12 backflows that froze this past Jan. These systems had gotten by for years without being shutdown in the winter, i just dont see how they made it. This past winter was just really harsh. Im trying to get all of my customers on my program, theyre finding out its expensive to replace!
Also some of these backflow boxes are really getting thin on the foam insulation, another reason why in use pvc unions on all my assemblies for winterization.
Bought a 125 cfm mobile air compressor this spring, always rented before, got tried of giving good money to the rental company. You want a lot of air flow regulated at 40-50 psi to do a good job. I always purge each zone twice, takes a awhile longer but gives me piece of mind over the winter when temps. are hovering at 0 degrees.
Just wondering what do most charge for winterizing in your area?
Tony - I usualy get 1-3 calls for the Woodland Park area. Do you want me to send them to ya if any come in?
I'm also going to work my butt off to gain a few more hundred this fall. I usually start Oct 15 and go for a full 4 weeks. Then I usually rent the compressor again for 1-3 more days beginning of December for alll the stragglers.