Winterizing equipment

Discussion in 'Starting a Lawn Care Business' started by Ejs71, Dec 3, 2012.

  1. GMLC

    GMLC LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,345

    It prevents condensation from building up in empty tanks and the carb bowl.
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  2. jrs.landscaping

    jrs.landscaping LawnSite Silver Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 2,764

    prevents condensation in the tank.
  3. nepatsfan

    nepatsfan LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,142

    thanks guys

    STIHL GUY LawnSite Fanatic
    from CT
    Messages: 5,226

    All the handhelds get drained and run out of gas...the mowers and bigger engines get stabilizer run through them at the end of the year then shut the gas and run the lines dry..I then top off the tank with fresh gas and stabilizer...ive been doing it this way for a while and everything always starts.right up come springtime ...I also remove batteries and store them inside so they dont die over the winter
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    STIHL GUY LawnSite Fanatic
    from CT
    Messages: 5,226

    Or if its an older battery trickle charge it a few times over the winter so it wont go dead
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  6. Ejs71

    Ejs71 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 12

    Thanks guys. I know it varies by area but where do you dispose off gas/oil?
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  7. RSK Property Maintenance

    RSK Property Maintenance LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,504

    i don't know if i had a freak battery or something, but on my 05 scag tiger cub i never did anything to the battery every winter for 7 years and it never went dead, never needed charging always started the mower up in the spring no issues. also i thought about jacking my mower up off the ground to prevent flat spots forming in the tires, it would happen to tiger cub not bad but still enough to where i think i may want to jack up my cheetah with the bagger system.
  8. Blades Lawn Maintenance

    Blades Lawn Maintenance LawnSite Bronze Member
    Male, from Montague, NJ
    Messages: 1,237

    I usually run my equipment at least once a week
  9. rbljack

    rbljack LawnSite Senior Member
    from Texas
    Messages: 731

    this is no place to be lazy or problems will show up in the spring.

    For handhelds, wash the equipment first. Spray dust and grime off carbs. Empty tanks and run them out of gas. switch the choke on and off a time or two right before its out of gas and sputtering to remove all the gas from the carb. Then I pull the plug and spray some engine fogger into the cylinder when its cooled off. pull the cord a few times to get the fogger coated through the cylinder and put the plug back in. Stored with empty gas tank. New air filters and spark plugs can be put in at this point also. For chain saws, i follow the procedures above, also clean the entire saw with bar/chain removed, then reassemble. Chain gets sharpened, and the chain saw is stored with Bar Oil topped off (unless they leak. If so, I empty them), and store.because the air filter and spark plugs may not be readily accessable on these units, new spark plug and air filter goes in at this point.

    Mowers and equipment with fuel shut offs:
    Wash the equipment with soap and water, than oil change and sharpen blades. I run stabile in all my gas, so as I add gas, there is always stabile in it. For the winter, I ensure the fuel valve is off, then start and run the engine until the motor staves of gas and dies. All fuel is out of carb at this point. When the engine cools down, I then pull the spark plug and use engine fogger in the cylinder. With the plug removed, pull the cord a few times to distribute the engine fogger. Then top off the gas in the tank for storage. I do NOT replace the spark plugs or air filters at this time typically unless they are really bad. I wait till spring, and when I first run the equipment, there will be a bit of smoke from the fogger. Once that is cleared in teh spring, new spark plug and air filter goes in.

    Equipment without fuel shut offs:
    This really comes down to whether the gas tank is plastic or metal for me. If its a plastic tank, you can either drain all gass or top it off, but I prefer to drain all gas and follow the rest of the directions above.

    If its a metal gas tank, do all the above, and ensure you top off the tank when your done. Metal gas tanks are prone to rust and condensation will build up if you dont top off the gas.

    All gas in every piece of equipment should have Stabil in it at this point. All equipment should be clean and lubed where necessary. All carbs and linkages should operate smoothly and not be coated in dust/oil/grime. All cylinders should be sprayed with engine fogger. This should help prevent troubles in the spring. OH, and one more tip....try to find a gas station in your town that does NOT use ethanol in their gas because its the main culprit to our carb headaches we all encounter.
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2012
  10. rbljack

    rbljack LawnSite Senior Member
    from Texas
    Messages: 731

    A few things i forgot to mention:

    Batteries get removed from equipment and go on "battery tender" automatic charging system as well. I have two motorcycles, so I just try to rotate the battery tender from one battery to the next weekly. From one bike to the next, then to a mower battery, etc etc.

    For lots of useful information on small engines, you can do a search for "donyboy73" on you tube. he is a small engine mechanic in canada that does some very good videos on our types of equipment. LOTS of useful information on there, from equipment repair to winterizing, etc etc etc. Its a good resource to help you repair and maintain your own equipment.

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