Wright Stander 25hp kaw Problems with Electric starter

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by MisterGreen, Feb 25, 2005.

  1. MisterGreen

    MisterGreen LawnSite Member
    from Kansas
    Messages: 23

    Do anybody can help with an electric problem?
    I try to start the mower after 3 months sitting in my shop and it doesn't want to start. Put a new battery and all I hear is a little bzz every 3 seconds but does not do anything when I try with the key.
  2. fixer67

    fixer67 LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,098

    Make sure all the machine saftey interlock switches are set. That is where I would start. Check for any blown fuses. There is a pin plug on the wiring harness that hooks the engine" electric system to the machine's electric system. I have seen a lot of problems with these plugs. Does the machine have an electric fuel pump? If so I thank that may be the buzzing you are hearing.
  3. jimslawns

    jimslawns LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 283

    On many of those machines there is a relay (two posts) that buzzes when it goes out. It can go out due to low voltage. This could be the case if you are hearing a buzz and no cranking.
  4. Mower Man

    Mower Man LawnSite Member
    Messages: 100

    25 Kawasaki isn't EFI or DFI so it uses a mechanical diaphram fuel pump, so we can eliminate that.

    jimslawns is on one good track. Kawa has two different type starters. Standard uses a seperate black solenoid usually has two big posts(terminals).
    High torque has an automotive type Bendix solenoid bolted onto the starter.

    The standard has the tendency to get water inside, and corrodes the spring loaded contacts which vibrate-buzz.
    R&R with the newer heavy duty type, and use rubber terminal boots, or coat with an electrical sealer. Dielectric grease will work, but it will wear-wash off.

    However, I would first determine if current is getting to the solenoid, thru it, and to the starter.

    It's simple.
    Using a 12-24v test light, connect the negative (black) to the negative battery terminal. Wiggle it a little for a good contact.
    Touch the positive terminal with the point. Light lit? If so, good.

    Keeping the negative conatct clamped on the battery, follow the thick positive (red) cable to the solenoid. Touch the probe point there.
    Light lit? If so, good.
    If not recheck connections. If good then it's a bad cable.

    Now touch the probe to the other large terminal. The cable should run to the starter. With all controls in Neutral, brake on, PTO off, and seat pressure, turn the key to the start position. Wiggle the key, and try it a couple times. The light should be lit every time.

    Also try.....
    There should be at least one small wire going to the solenoid. Touch the probe point to the terminal, and turn the key to 'start'. Light should go on. Wiggle the key, and try it a couple times. If it goes off, bad key switch, maybe a wire/connection. But bet on the switch.

    If not, then it's a bad solenoid. Bet on the solenoid.
    Remove it, and look for any white powder where the terminal goes into the housing. It's corrosion. R & R it.

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