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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone. I run a Wright Stander B 32" for my main machine, and it's been giving me issues with starting. Sometimes it would start, sometimes I had to jiggle the key when turning it to get it to start. Figured it was the ignition.

Ordered a new one, hooked it up, won't start at all. Went back to the old one, won't start at all.

If anyone could offer me possible solutions, I'd be really grateful. Was running fine other than that, but the fact that it won't start at all when I have a full route tomorrow has me really frustrated.

Thank you.
 

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Hey everyone. I run a Wright Stander B 32" for my main machine, and it's been giving me issues with starting. Sometimes it would start, sometimes I had to jiggle the key when turning it to get it to start. Figured it was the ignition.

Ordered a new one, hooked it up, won't start at all. Went back to the old one, won't start at all.

If anyone could offer me possible solutions, I'd be really grateful. Was running fine other than that, but the fact that it won't start at all when I have a full route tomorrow has me really frustrated.

Thank you.
Engine info please? Also does it turn over properly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Engine info please? Also does it turn over properly?
Before I swapped ignition switches it would turn over no problem 5/10 times. The other 5/10 it wouldn't do anything at all until I jiggled the key. It was like there was no key trying to turn it over at all.

Now it fails to turn over everytime, like there's no key at all.


Engine is a Kawasaki FS600V 18.5 HP
 

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Likely a bad wire terminal in the switch harness connector. Very common. Did you look at the plug connector when you changed the switch?

Some quick tests with a test light will answer your own question most likely.

Was this an Indak switch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Likely a bad wire terminal in the switch harness connector. Very common. Did you look at the plug connector when you changed the switch?

Some quick tests with a test light will answer your own question most likely.

Was this an Indak switch?
Do you have a test light you recommend? I don't know what kind of switch it was.

I was thinking to replace the terminals as well. I'm going to go get a terminal set and wire strippers in the morning and redo all the terminal ends.
 

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Do you have a test light you recommend? I don't know what kind of switch it was.

I was thinking to replace the terminals as well. I'm going to go get a terminal set and wire strippers in the morning and redo all the terminal ends.
SMH
Why don't you test before just taking things apart and replacing stuff??? It's easy to test. Figure out if that is actually the issue, so you aren't wasting time and money. Besides..... I think my head is going to explode..... you know don't you that you can't just pull those connectors out of the harness, you need a tool. (Yeah you could jamb something in there and get them to release, but much easier with the tool.) Also, that most auto part or hardware stores won't carry the correct terminals to replace them? I keep some, but generally order them online. It's not a quick simple thing and you don't even own wire strippers and a crimper set?

A test light is just a wire with an alligator clip on one end, and a pointy ice pick on the other with a light in between. Not exactly a very hard tool to make badly. No, I do not have a recommended brand. Literally any of them will work I would surely hope.

TEST and then REPAIR. Not swap and change parts until it works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nothing wrong with a reference diagram. Don't be a jerk.

Your advice is very good, though. I'll get a test light tomorrow as well to make sure that each of the terminals has power coming through.

You said not all terminals are the same. As long as I make sure they look the same would they work? I can't imagine that they're all made out of vastly different materials.

I did remove the terminals from the harness when the replacement failed, and I hooked them directly to the connections on the ignition switch to make sure they were all well-connected before trying it again.
 

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Nothing wrong with a reference diagram. Don't be a jerk.
I would be helpful if it was model specific. A general diagram is useless these days. Everyone wires things differently.


You said not all terminals are the same. As long as I make sure they look the same would they work? I can't imagine that they're all made out of vastly different materials.
I didn't actually say not all terminals are the same. It has absolutely nothing to do with build of material. It has to do with mounting to the connector. It has to have a tab on the terminal to hold it in, and in the right place. Most auto stores only carry standard crimp on terminals, covered and non covered. If you want to cut off the terminals and wire each wire to the switch individually, be my guest. I prefer to keep them in the connector.


I did remove the terminals from the harness when the replacement failed, and I hooked them directly to the connections on the ignition switch to make sure they were all well-connected before trying it again.
Then how did you not see if any of them were worn/corroded/failing?? Or test the wires while you had it all apart? Did you damage the connector during removal? One of the terminals may not be snapped into the connector and not even engaging the terminal on the ignition switch. Are you sure you put all the wires back in the harness in the correct location?? All this could be caused by removing the wires from the connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I would be helpful if it was model specific. A general diagram is useless these days. Everyone wires things differently.




I didn't actually say not all terminals are the same. It has absolutely nothing to do with build of material. It has to do with mounting to the connector. It has to have a tab on the terminal to hold it in, and in the right place. Most auto stores only carry standard crimp on terminals, covered and non covered. If you want to cut off the terminals and wire each wire to the switch individually, be my guest. I prefer to keep them in the connector.




Then how did you not see if any of them were worn/corroded/failing?? Or test the wires while you had it all apart? Did you damage the connector during removal? One of the terminals may not be snapped into the connector and not even engaging the terminal on the ignition switch. Are you sure you put all the wires back in the harness in the correct location?? All this could be caused by removing the wires from the connector.
I misunderstood regarding the terminals. I'll be sure to get the same connection type.

When I took them off I didn't notice anything corroded or worn or damaged. I took a photo before I removed them to ensure they'd be placed back in the correct spots.

It sounds like ensuring that each terminal has power is the first step. If one doesn't, trace it back until it does and then I'll know where the disconnect is occuring.

If they all have power then make sure the terminals are in good condition.

This is the diagram I found for Wright Standers.
 

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Nothing wrong with a reference diagram. Don't be a jerk.

Your advice is very good, though. I'll get a test light tomorrow as well to make sure that each of the terminals has power coming through.

You said not all terminals are the same. As long as I make sure they look the same would they work? I can't imagine that they're all made out of vastly different materials.

I did remove the terminals from the harness when the replacement failed, and I hooked them directly to the connections on the ignition switch to make sure they were all well-connected before trying it again.
The biggest issue is fitting on the small blade pieces of the switch, and gauge of the wire...
I say use it if it fits and slips on snug and doesn't touch any other wires.
I have a bunch of small gauge terminals that work for the purpose, bought them at home depot in a box of 50 or 100 or what... You do need something to crimp the end where the wire goes in...
I have had trouble with the wire slipping back out despite my best attempts at crimping... So I often add a drop of solder to hold it in good, that can be tricky, don't burn yourself and don't get solder on the piece that needs to fit on the switch...
I find having a "third hand / helping hand soldering stand" quite helpful.

This one doesn't show a terminal but you get the idea:

Font Clock Circle Watch Jewellery
 

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I misunderstood regarding the terminals. I'll be sure to get the same connection type.
You won't find them. If you do, post a picture and tell me where you found them in stock at.


It sounds like ensuring that each terminal has power is the first step. If one doesn't, trace it back until it does and then I'll know where the disconnect is occuring.
But not all the terminals will have power on them......
 

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They're called:
disconnect terminal female 14 awg
(the 14 awg refers to the gauge or thickness of the wire)
The smaller the number the thicker the wire, yes that is correct so a 12 awg terminal would hold a slightly thicker wire.

This looks to be the kind I use, just has to be the right size to fit on the male terminal and that's a fairly small wire gauge... Take an old one with you if you can...
Font Line Screenshot Parallel Circle
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You won't find them. If you do, post a picture and tell me where you found them in stock at.




But not all the terminals will have power on them......
The brake terminal,
They're called:
disconnect terminal female 14 awg
(the 14 awg refers to the gauge or thickness of the wire)
The smaller the number the thicker the wire, yes that is correct so a 12 awg terminal would hold a slightly thicker wire.

This looks to be the kind I use, just has to be the right size to fit on the male terminal and that's a fairly small wire gauge... Take an old one with you if you can...
View attachment 515154
They're called:
disconnect terminal female 14 awg
(the 14 awg refers to the gauge or thickness of the wire)
The smaller the number the thicker the wire, yes that is correct so a 12 awg terminal would hold a slightly thicker wire.

This looks to be the kind I use, just has to be the right size to fit on the male terminal and that's a fairly small wire gauge... Take an old one with you if you can...
View attachment 515154
Is this them? It says wire size 14 - 16, so I'm thinking it would fit. I'll definitely take one with me if I end up replacing them.
 

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Is this them? It says wire size 14 - 16, so I'm thinking it would fit. I'll definitely take one with me if I end up replacing them.
It's a bit of trial and error...
They only make so many sizes in the range we're in, two that are very similar to be exact so you may have to buy a couple of different sizes to be sure although I believe either size would fit (I think the other size is for a 12 gauge wire).

Wire size 14-16, I'm pretty sure that's awg they're referring to.

One other thing, you mentioned brake terminal...
Did you mean the connector with the letter B on the ignition switch, or something else?
 

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Terminal photo. The green one is the one that goes to the brake switch.
Hmmm...
Those wires in the pictures all look to be pretty solid in terms of a connection, I'm not so sure I'd want to mess with those... Probably best to leave them alone before we make things worse. So if you go testing with a voltage meter and there's no power on those I'd follow them to wherever they come from...

At this point it may be best to obtain an actual Wright mower wiring schematic.
Do you per chance have model and serial number?

Something else that came to mind just now, have you checked / cleaned the battery terminals / posts of corrosion?
Might be a loose battery terminal as well...

Usually an electrical problem on a mower is one simple thing, the hard part is nailing it down.
 
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