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Yet another wild violet thread...

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by Whitey4, Jun 21, 2009.

  1. Whitey4

    Whitey4 LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,448

    OK, 4 apps of 3 way with Quicksilver and the violets are still unaffected. The Quicksilver whitens and kills the leaves, but a week later the WV's are back. 4 apps so far, same result.

    Now I will use some tricolpyr amine, but is it a good idea to spike that with Quicksiler as well? Neither label states whether or not they can be mixed, I imagine they can be... but even if they can be, would the leaf wilting action of QS help or hurt the weed's uptake of the triclopyr?

    Just about everything else that kills WV's are either restricted here (I still need to go from tech to applicator for access to restricted controls) or prohihibited.

    So, plan B is triclopyr, but should I mix that with QS? Since this mix combo is not on either label, I will make some phone calls to find out, but the real question is would spiking with QS help or or hurt the kill of the triclopyr?
  2. TurfCo  LLC

    TurfCo LLC LawnSite Member
    Messages: 63

    triclopyr will do it... don't bother mixing. Give it time, WV are tough to control.
  3. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 9,766

    Whitey, it is on the QS label. Approved tank mixes include 2,4-D, triclopyr and a whole bunch of stuff I use because I am treating warm season turf. I have been aware of Quicksilver damaging the leaves of weeds in ways that enhances uptake of herbicides. To take advantage of that, I use 1/2 oz per acre QS, my choice of broadleaf herbicide and a nonionic surfactant. True stickers as in latex or resin based products will hold herbicides on the leaf surface and not help penetration into the leaf.
  4. Whitey4

    Whitey4 LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,448

    gd.... if you ever happen to even pass through NY... I owe you a dinner at Peter Luger's. Seriously.

    Now as I reread the QS label, they do say tri-c is ok to mix, but they never claim to kill WV, only to burn it, which is what I've observed.

    I have been using Bonide spreader sticker, and maybe I need to spend more time on sticker selection. here is the Bonide...

    Section II - Hazardous Ingredients/Identity
    Hazardous Components (Specific Chemical Identity: Common Name(s) OSHA PEL ACGIH TLV Other Limits % (Optional )
    1.) Modified Phthalic/Glycerol Alkyl Resin 75-80
    2.) 1,1,1-Trichloroethane CAS#71-55-6

    Admittedly, I have not looked into sticker chemistry at all, and I realise that now, this was a mistake. This stuff is easy to get in the quantities (low) that I need.

    So, you think for WV's a spike of less than the one millileter per gallon of QS I've been using with a 3 way should be reduced? That might help with plant uptake of the troclopyr?

    TurfCo, thanks for your reply as well.... you think straight tri-c is best? I have never used triclopyr before, so any advice is most welcome. Do you use a sticker?

    This bonide seemed to work great with Roundup Pro on my English ivy eradications... two apps, dead ivy. I know this is a latex based sticker/spreader, is that a good choice here? Are there other stickers that aid in leaf penetration?
  5. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 9,766

    No problem. Does Peter Luger's make a good steak. I am talking a 1 lb New York Strip or bone in prime rib. I do not know what to tell you about additives. I use the line from CPS/UAP. For water based amines, I am partial to LI700. This is a nonionic surfactant/penetrating agent and acidifier. Early on, I learned that a good surfactant will force weeds to absorb a herbicide quickly, before rain or irrigation affects the application. Most of my lawns are irrigated the next morning after I spray. This has not affected the results in any way. Triclopyr amine as in Ortho Clover and oxalis killer would benefit from 1/2 ml QS per 1000 sq ft and 2 teaspoon LI700 per gallon of spray solution. This would probably nuke any other broadleaves in the lawn as well.
  6. Whitey4

    Whitey4 LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,448

    There are a lot of steak houses in NYC, but Luger's is the creme de la creme. Some others are very good, but there is only one Peter Lugers. (actually there are two) but the one in Brooklyn is one of the best steak houses in the world. (yes. I have traveled the world including places like KC for food-steak eating)

    I don't even make that offer to family! But, your help and knowledge shared over these past two years... I hope to be able to repay at some point.

    I will do the tri-c and QS app, and report back... although as usual, we have rain in the forecast for several days once again... looks like I need to brush up some on stickers... and do a reverse rain dance.
  7. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 9,766

    My experience with true stickers tells me they are best saved for nonsystemic fungicides and insecticides. That formulation you posted sounds like Latron B1956. I normally use it for trees and nursery stock when I am applying mancozeb fungicide. It is a good thing that I have a CPS/UAP about 15 minutes from home. They have a good selection of products for both turf and Ag. That is good because some of what I commonly use for weed control belongs in a corn field. I hear you about the rain. It is not raining in Hawaii right now, but the wind is blowing 30+. Not even I can apply in that kind of wind without drift.
  8. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,562

    Whitey, I would go with the tricloyr. Good stuff. And use a surfactant like Lesco Hawkeye or a silicone type wetting agent. Expensive but you only need a small amount. And in some ways rain is good; high humidity increases the absorption of the chemical. If the chemical dries on the leaf surface it crystalizes and can no longer be absorbed. If you spray at night or a gloomy day it stays liquid and does not dry out before it can be absorbed. Try to have some dicamba in the mixture as it is root absorbed and has a better chance of getting to the critical growing points, which are underground, (except during bloom period). Burning the leaves doesn't get the growing point (the apical merestem).

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