i was bidding a zoysia Lawn the other day and ran across this.
The dead area started last summer and progressed. I am pretty certain it was cinch bugs by the looks of it, and his description of how it progresses. But wondering about the stunted/club roots? Would they be caused by a pre emergent earlier in spring, or a herbicide applied during or after cinch bug damage occurred?
More interested in the club/stunted roots than the large dead area.
I have seen it before in lawns with no apparent pests but obvious fungal issues. Wondering if the herbicide damage is expressed more when other factors are at play.
Glad you said that. That symptom is synonyms with root rot also. Often root rot & nematode are mixed together causing this dominate symptom. Easy to miss diagnose which one is forefront. Most won't think about nematode first. But will apply expensive fungicides a couple of times with little effect. Then dig for insect activity. Then apply insecticide. All the while nematode's have left evidence.
From what I have read, nematode would likely be the dominate cause. The piercing of root allows entry of pythium and other diseases. A wound for entry.
I'm still not convinced cinch bug is not a role player as well. Even if nematodes are present. Started mid summer, or when noticed and grew outward.
Anchor roots will be mostly puffy & swollen.
Like regular spaghetti vs angel hair spaghetti thickness. Anchor roots will have sporadic & minimal hairy feeder roots developing on them. A high population of the anchor roots will have no feeder roots on them at all. Looks like insect activity with no insect present. Stunted growth & unresponsive to fertility. No uniformity in the root structure. Root pruning pre-m's too heavealy applied generally won't produce long anchor roots & the roots will be puffy on the tip ends, not the entire lengths of the anchor roots. Heavy nematode activity will cause enough stress for foliar fungi leasions coupled with minimal cultural & environmental factors driving favorable fungi conditions.
Areas worsen with nitrogen applications. Nitrogen aids in nematode present activity.
Failure to respond to Nitrogen in absence of confounding factors such as salinity and/or pH is diagnostic for me. So is wilting in spite of adequate soil moisture. Another is weeds taking over the area. Heavy usage of preemergent will mask the tendency for weeds to take over but will encourage large areas to become dirt. The weeds I see taking over in high nematode soils include Crabgrass, Goosegrass, Prostrate Spurge, Nutsedge, and Kyllinga species. Normally, Zoysia develops such a dense root system that weeds are incapable of establishing.
I attended a seminar on nematodes in golf turf 2 months ago. The takeaway point from that seminar was that nematode assays done on soils mostly find live nematodes in the process of attacking roots. They are not as good at finding nematodes when they have already caused severe damage because nematodes need a live host. Dead grass is not a good host. If that were mine to deal with, I would be treating it with Fluopyram when conditions are ideal for growth of the Zoysia to resume.
This is becoming an issue due to Diazinon being illegal for turf application for the last 18 years. I noticed it in Hawaii. Tifdwarf, Tifgreen and Tifway 419 are very hard to keep here. Empire and El Toro Zoysia is also hard to keep here. In some lawns the Zoysia is very vigorous and requires usage of PGRs to make them maintainable. In other lawns, they are fragile and prone to dying off.
Glad you said that. That symptom is synonyms with root rot also. Often root rot & nematode are mixed together causing this dominate symptom. Easy to miss diagnose which one is forefront. Most won't think about nematode first. But will apply expensive fungicides a couple of times with little effect. Then dig for insect activity. Then apply insecticide. All the while nematode's have left evidence.
Thanks. I did suspect nematodes, but last year I had sent a sample from a different property to Mississippi state diagnostic lab, per the county agent citing herbicide damage. I do not know the history of the Lawn.
My challenge to nemotodes is the consistency of the affected area. Do nematode symptoms not appear more sporadic? Though there is the same club root in the front lawn with sporadic patterns, the back is one larger continuous area.
Always good to know the history! Once something is dead it's harder to determine the cause without mental or documented history. Easier to find what's causing a problem if you catch it in the act. Yes at this point could be past herbicide damage. Mechanical damage after death is easier to determine a cause.
Also, does anyone have pictures of confirmed nematode damage in a residential turf? Or at least not mown like a green.
What criteria do you base having an assay done vs just applying a corrective measure?
Also, does anyone have pictures of confirmed nematode damage in a residential turf? Or at least not mown like a green.
What criteria do you base having an assay done vs just applying a corrective measure?
Probably cost.
Here in Arkansas, we can take samples to be tested to our Extension Office and they send it off to the U of A and for $10.00 you can find out. I have a specific neighborhood that several houses in the neighborhood had problems with nematodes. When I was dealing with the one I was dealing with, I was told that for the most part, nematicides had been taken off the market due to there toxicity to the environment. I researched it and farmers plant mustard greens to keep nematode populations low. Unfortunately, I can't plant mustard greens in my lawns. It was suggested to go easy on fert, use organic blends if possible and aerate. I could not find ground mustard greens or seeds to spread so I aerated the ever loving piss out of the lawn and used organic ferts sparingly and believe it or not, the problem went away. These were stinging nematodes with a threshold count at around 600. I'm sure the product Greendoctor speaks of has a fairly high cost...just guessing though.
But it appears to run downhill--like a chemical. Did they use salt to melt ice on the roof? Did it run down the downspout? Some other chemical? New roof?
And--what comes out of the little black door? Fireplace ashes? Hot tub drain?
There's also a downspout...kind of a strange place for a downspout. Usually they're at corners. Point is, many times I'll see fungal issues near downspouts. Especially if they drain into an area that doesn't shed water well.
By the way, it's only the nematode test that costs $10 here any other soil test, insect or disease ID is free. Inexpensive, positive ID. Then you're not throwing darts with a blindfold on. JMO
how long until a noticed response with the fluopryam? And are you applying at 15oz/k for nematode, or is a lower rate effective?
In this instance, where the large area is bare, would there be any viable root system left of nematodes are the culprit?
It will be hard to see anything now. The Zoysia is still in dormancy. I would apply 6 oz when the rest of it has fully greened up and once more a month or two before it. Annual applications limit is 12 oz per year.
If the grass was completely killed, it is quite possible for the roots to be totally rotted and gone. Re sodding is necessary, however, that new sod will fail if the nematodes are not addressed.
Could you be a little more specific on time to see results? I get it wont occure now. But say a may or june application?
And your sentence cut off. A month or two before...? It goes dormant? Thanks.
Nematode's are generally present in stressful situations, but what matters most is which variety & how many of that variety are populated. This will determine what % the nematode activity is effecting any givin turf decline. The area has either low populations that aren't greatly hampering or it's very nematodic (chronic). To me, the pictures of the roots would indicate... At one time chronic. Now, ?.
Not an expert on nematode. But in my observations summer drought stress looks most active. Mostly because summer drought stress holds recovery hostage.
Any time I investigated stressed turf areas the first thing I inspected was the root system. If I saw roots like the ones in the OP's pictures. 1) I knew nematode was active & 2) With no sustainable roots & no new root development, recovery was unlikely. My first action would be to apply 18-46-0 Diammonium Phosphate. I would not sample for P first ether. DP has never failed me even when a sample indicated adequate P levels. If it is so adequate. What gives? Why does DP take such fast corrective action to produce new roots with healthy tissue in July ( in 10 to 14 days) by applying P & making water more available? Just applying more water did not do that with adequate P levels.
That is when the damage has already been done. I see mine when transitioning from warm and dry to cool and wet in October-November. It is diagnosed as Large Patch by the nematode deniers. They can keep applying their Propiconazole, Eagle and Heritage or whatever else. I apply the Exteris at that time and fare rather well. Last year was the first time I was able to keep a low height of cut on the Zoysia and not lose turf. Normally, I need to raise HOC up to 1.25" just so it survives from November to May. Treating for just Large Patch has not affected that positively. Using a Fluopyram product has. Not having to raise HOC yields another positive result. I do not need to deal with thatch/excessively thick grass during the warm season.
That goes back to how P can be extracted from soil for testing purposes. One reagent is acidic and contains chelating agents. The other is Sodium Carbonate. Both reagents do not mirror any conditions I have seen in soils to date. That is my argument with other members on this forum. I use soil testing as a guideline. However, my final arbiter is response to an application. On turf that I need to promote growth on, I usually apply 20-20-20 soluble, which contains Ammonium Phosphate and Potassium Phosphate at 0.25-0.5 lb NPK. That always works if nematodes and soil pH have been addressed.
One other possibility--unlikely...however
The downspout and bark area on the right be an orgination point for chemical damage.
For instance--suppose a pre-emergent like triple strength Snapshot or Preen were used on the bark area out of the picture on the right. Or perhaps even along the edge of the house to reduce trimming against the brick. Then it ran downhill following drainage patterns.
One other possibility--unlikely...however
The downspout and bark area on the right be an orgination point for chemical damage.
For instance--suppose a pre-emergent like triple strength Snapshot or Preen were used on the bark area out of the picture on the right. Or perhaps even along the edge of the house to reduce trimming against the brick. Then it ran downhill following drainage patterns.
There is also club root in front. Is a mix of zoysia/fescue with no pattern to declining areas. There is no pre used in beds at this property. Round up if not hand weeded in beds.
That is definitely an Exteris or Indemnify lawn. A jug of Exteris will only pay for about 70 sq ft of sod in my state but treat 1/2 acre of turf. A 17 oz bottle of Indemnify will buy only 400 sq ft of sod but treat an acre of turf. There is no price tag on being able to turn around lawns that have been re sodded more than once due to nematode activity or the ones that always look horrible in spite of of all of the materials and labor thrown at them. For me, there is no excuse for a lawn to look bad when it gets a liquid fertilizer every 30-45 days, all diseases/insects are treated for, irrigation covers 100%, and it is being reel cut. I know something is going on when the butchered and never fertilized lawn of the same variety looks greener than one of mine a few days after the lawn ninjas had their way with the grass.
I usually find with nematodes down here it will look like a drought problem even though the irrigation works, and the area will have spruge and onion grass growing in it. Nimitz is labeled for residential lawns. file:///C:/Users/joe/AppData/Local/Microsoft/Windows/INetCache/IE/5XQS16NH/Specimen-NimitzProG-53883-357-04132017.pdf. pull a soil sample test for todes and ph
When the turf is exiting dormancy and in full green up. Sounds like May or June for you. Then again a month or so before it goes dormant. No need for Large Patch fungicides if you are applying Fluopyram. Fluopyram is a powerful fungicide in addition to being a nematicide.
Zoysia is normally unstoppable. It wants to go under borders and get into landscaped beds. It wants to crawl under driveways and come up on the other side. A spot killed or damaged by other means normally has rhizomes underground in that spot followed by stolons and leaves soon after. Your sign that there was a positive response to treatment is when you see some regrowth moving into those currently bare areas.
So Here in Florida, I'm about to put down some prodiamine (pre-emergent). I was diagnosed with nematodes last year. Should I be using a pre-emergent, if I'm trying to promote root growth?
Was that a for real nematode assay ? There's always some nematodes in the soil. Its when there are too many that it's a problem. If you do have a problem, you need to fix that before worrying about anything else. Nematodes are root eaters.
So, I already applied the Prodiamine 65 WDG (0.4 oz/ 1000 sq ft) to the St. Augustine lawn.
After reading more posts (Greendoctor etc), about dinotroaniline (DNA) pre-emergents, that was a mistake I guess. The Pre M's may be the root of my problem (pun intended). Last year I Made 3 applications, 2 Prodiamine (Spring and Fall), 1 Dimension (Hy Yield, 1-12 lb bag 0.125% Dimension for 4,000 sq ft) . Apparently I made a mistake and was applying Prodiamine at 0.8 oz/ 1000 sq ft last year (0.8 oz is the annual maximum).
I'll lay off the Pre Ms for a bit. Signal grass is my nemesis down here.
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i was bidding a zoysia Lawn the other day and ran across this.
The dead area started last summer and progressed. I am pretty certain it was cinch bugs by the looks of it, and his description of how it progresses. But wondering about the stunted/club roots? Would they be caused by a pre emergent earlier in spring, or a herbicide applied during or after cinch bug damage occurred?
More interested in the club/stunted roots than the large dead area.
I have seen it before in lawns with no apparent pests but obvious fungal issues. Wondering if the herbicide damage is expressed more when other factors are at play.
looks like something ran down from the house? If not I would check the ph, I have seen the same thing and would have sworn my tech over dosed it with prodiamine, took soil samples and ph of 4.5 was found! I believe that when the ph is low and root pruner pre's are used they club the roots and prevent tact down more then normal! Cinch bugs were investing the inner parts of Memphis last year, but usually they start next to a hard surface like a drive way or sidewalk when I find them!
For use by Professional Applicators only. Not for use by homeowners/consumers. Not for Use in Turfgrass on Residential Properties.
PREEMERGENT HERBICIDE FOR THE CONTROL OF ANNUAL GRASSES AND BROADLEAF WEEDS IN TURFGRASS AND ORNAMENTALS INCLUDING LANDSCAPE ORNAMENTAL BEDS ON RESIDENTIAL PROPERTIES BY A PROFESSIONAL APPLICATOR
You don't have a license? If you don't you can legal put out anything.
Diagnosis: Stubby-root (Trichodorus sp.)
Determination: This crop is at moderate risk of damage caused by the nematodes indicated. Damage may occur if nematode populations increase or if the crop is under stress conditions.
In November I went with Exteris, 6 oz/ 1000, per Green Doctor.
Plan on doing the same thing April or May and August/ September this year
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