Ztr brake drum removal.

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by topsites, May 31, 2011.

  1. topsites

    topsites LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 21,653

    Everride Warrior 2nd gen. circa 2007 model

    What the hell, I took the wheel off, removed the cotter and the 1.5" nut.
    Disassembled the parking brake mechanism (just in case, although it doesn't interfere).
    And after lots of PB Blaster soaking I can't get this effing drum off!

    Yes I tried a puller, hit it with the impact, I put so much torque into it that it literally
    bent the bolt that does the pulling and dented the center axle where it was resting against,
    which it just binds a little now when trying to get the big center nut back on is all.

    I re-did this by pulling all that assembly back apart and then re-tightening the puller to where I had as
    much pressure going as possible, then tapped on the drum with a hammer from various directions.

    No love, I can't get that drum off to save myself, I don't think I budged it 1/16th inch.

    Checked the back for holding nuts / bolts, didn't see anything, no clips that I could see either.

    Any help would be appreciated.
  2. piston slapper

    piston slapper LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,327

    I've never seen an Everride Warrior.....

    Post a pic of the drum...maybe we can give you some guidance.

    If the world ends in 2012....alot of people are going to be pissed off.
  3. dutch1

    dutch1 LawnSite Silver Member
    from Jayhawk
    Messages: 2,247

    Here ya go, Slapper and Topsites.

    Like Slapper, I haven't seen an Everide myself. From the appearance of the hub it would appear that it is cast. Topsites, if you've bent the arbor bolt of your puller, it may be necessary to find a heavier duty puller. With a cast hub, I wouldn't think you couldn't put too much pressure on it.

    I've had a similar problem with the Great Dane welded hubs although I solved part of the problem by altering a damaged hub and bolting it up to the hub being removed, essentially doubling the thickness of the hub in order to prevent bending.

    If you're removing the hub to replace the wheel motor, I'd consider heating up the hub, other wise I'd give a heavy duty puller a shot. I always tried to place a low grade nut between the puller arbor bolt and wheel motor shaft in order to prevent mushrooming the end of the shaft. An impact hammer was always successful for me although I do remember once that I used a BIG hammer blow to get it to pop off. I assume the wheel motor shaft is keyed and tapered.

    Possibly Slapper or Rob will have some additional suggestions.

  4. piston slapper

    piston slapper LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,327

    Thanks Dutch...checked out the manual....looks like an exmark

    Try this...

    Find 2 large tapered chisels (or small log splitting wedges)
    Loosen the hub bolt ....leave it threaded on the shaft 2 or 3 turns.
    Drive the chisels behind the drum on opposite sides, between the drum and the wheel motor. After a few hits on the chisel, switch sides and hit the other chisel, keep switching chisels until it comes off.
    Ensure that the big nut is threaded on the shaft .....when the drum breaks loose, it will come off in a hurry. the nut will keep the drum from attaching itself to the mechanic .



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