We moved into our house last year and I planted grass in the spring. I have been wanting to fertilize, but am unsure what to go with. I am torn between liquid and granular fertilizer. I want the best bang for the buck, but don't want to spend a fortune. I mow three acres of grass. Any help would be much appreciated. Please direct me towards the best product to use.
Fertilizer Options for Acreage
tyler101
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We moved into our house last year and I planted grass in the spring. I have been wanting to fertilize, but am unsure what to go with. I am torn between liquid and granular fertilizer. I want the best bang for the buck, but don't want to spend a fortune. I mow three acres of grass. Any help would be much appreciated. Please direct me towards the best product to use.
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Where are you located? What type of grass is it? Do you water? What lawn equipment do you have? Mower, ATV, Tractor? Have you had a soil test done?
I am located in North Central Ohio. I do not water my lawn.
Fescue 50%
Bluegrass 20%
Perennial Ryegrass 20%
Annual Ryegrass 10%
I have a Kubota B2630 tractor with a 60" midmount mower deck to mow the lawn. I have not had a soil test done, as I do not know where to do it.
Fescue 50%
Bluegrass 20%
Perennial Ryegrass 20%
Annual Ryegrass 10%
I have a Kubota B2630 tractor with a 60" midmount mower deck to mow the lawn. I have not had a soil test done, as I do not know where to do it.
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I think you will find that a granular fert is going to be the way to go and more cost effective unless you have some way of applying liquid.
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How many acres are we talking about?
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Without irrigation you are going to want a 'Low Maintenance' scheduling. Put down your winterizer, with slow release granular, this fall. The rain should be here more regularily, and the cooler temps with have it actively growing and storing energy for nest spring. Next spring it can be done again, (maybe) but only after a few mowings... i.e., late spring.
Be sure to mow high , then not at all, if July/Aug become hot and dry.
Be sure to mow high , then not at all, if July/Aug become hot and dry.
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Check with your county extension office for soil test info. Here in OK, they are $10. I have a herd atv spreader and a herd m96 spreader for the tractor. They make spreading or seeding large areas a breeze.
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Lacking a soil test--concentrate on nitrogen--slow release nitrogen. You probably do not need phosphorus--and some areas of Ohio have good soil so you may not need much potassium. May not need lime. Try to find some coated nitrogen, like a 100 percent coated product for instance. Scroll up and click Agrium (a sponsor). They will explain the many benefits of slow release and controlled release nitrogen. Try to fertilize in cool rainy weather. April plus September should work well.
This 36-0-6 is a good choice.
http://www.spreaditandforgetit.com/DOWNLOAD/LABELS/Spread_it_&_Forget_it_OneAP_Transition_36-0-6.pdf
This 36-0-6 is a good choice.
http://www.spreaditandforgetit.com/DOWNLOAD/LABELS/Spread_it_&_Forget_it_OneAP_Transition_36-0-6.pdf
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It couldn't have been a worse crop than corn. From what I hear corn will rob most of the nutrients from the soil.
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Plant soybeans the first year. Then try the lawn...
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I thought I was on the right track. You might try clover too.
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Too late, wish I would have known that. Already planted grass. Having a terrible time keeping seed in our swail. Downpours keeps washing out our seed and top soil.
Urea 46-0-0. Granular. Spread 1 pound per 1000 square feet.
That is 1# of actual fert granules, therefore .46# of N/k, correct?
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