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stevenf

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Half the time I don't even go full speed. But there are occasions where a little more speed would be nice. I have a 48/25hp that goes about 7.5mph.
Anyone ever swap Pullys on a ztr or belt drive to increase speed?
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Nope, I just bought a faster mower, now I can do 12 mph lol
but I can tell you that much over 6-7 mph it doesn't do a good job, too.
exactly, top speed is rarely attainable while getting a quality cut, you must have newly sharpened blades, grass that isnt too long or wet on flat ground. Almost instantly sharp blades begin to dull and you must slow down to compensate for loss of cut quality. Engineers spent a lot of time figuring maximum performance and speed for these machines, I wouldnt mess with it trying to re invent the wheel.
 
Have trouble staying in the seat as it is.

Mow about 4 to 4.5 mph in thin grass or taking off very little.

Take care,

Half the time I don't even go full speed. But there are occasions where a little more speed would be nice. I have a 48/25hp that goes about 7.5mph.
Anyone ever swap Pullys on a ztr or belt drive to increase speed?
Posted via Mobile Device
 
I regularly mow between 6-8mph to keep production up and feel a few more mph is possible while keeping a decent to good cut as long as you aren't getting bucked off the machine. One of my mowers (old Rich convertible) was only running around 6.5mph per my GPS and have it around 8.5mph now per my GPS. In spring when grass is growing faster and thick I keep speeds down to about 6mph or till I can't hear the engine strain, but after that it's full out as often as I can and the cut is still very acceptable. If you are serious about mowing faster you have to do more than increase ground speed as others have said the cut will degrade. While I have not changed pulley sizes to achieve faster speeds (keep in mind hydro pumps are only rated for so many input RPM's and without antifoaming agents the hydro fluid can cavitate, bye, bye hydro pump) I have gone to larger diameter tires which not only give you higher speeds but also give you a cushier ride while traveling faster. For example, if you have a 20" tire OEM running 7.5mph and switch to a 22" tire, your speed should now be at roughly 8.25mph. Not a huge jump, but on a 60" deck good for an additional 1/8 acre per hour production, so an extra acre per day just by going to a slightly larger tire. Don't forget to level your deck. I make sure to check the engine RPM every couple months, those engines are rated by the manufacture at 3,600RPM under load, and governer springs weaken over time (I will also note that I've tached out over 100 machines and not a single one has ever been at 3,600, most sit around 3,200RPM-3,400RPM). This is essential for the highest blade tip speed and ground speed. No, this does not void your warranty as the engine is rated at that RPM (and yes, I have worked in the warranty department for multiple top name commercial brands). I also run nothing but high lift blades except in the fall to chop leaves, gives you more deck vacuum to keep those blades of grass standing straight up in less time to cut them evenly as you pass by faster. Now keep in mind those high lift blades sap more power from the engine since they are essentially higher pitch fans that requires more power to turn at the same speed. I will also note but will not recommend what I have done, which is install smaller pulleys on the deck for a MUCH higher blade tip speed. In my case the OEM BTS was in the ballpark of 16,000fpm and I increased this with smaller off the shelf pulleys to roughly 19,000fpm and made a cheapo MTD RZT cut and stripe as well as any commercial unit. Also those larger tires have more rotating mass and therefore more rolling resistance also using more power to run full out. So if you don't feel like swapping to a more powerful engine, I have found a combination of Fitch Fuel catalyst and iridium spark plugs is a great deterrent for bogging and really seems to help the torque output through more complete combustion. Running full synthetics everywhere, including deck spindles helps as well. Oh, and you can find K&N air filters for most small engines with enough research for better filtration and a bit more oomf too.

Food for thought, I keep hearing those newer Dixie Choppers still cut really nice at 15mph....and when doing large acre parcels, 8mph feels like you are crawling.
 
If bigger tires make your machine go faster I'm all ears.
I mow alot of different grades and hit some with good hills.
I'm talking front fork busters and tire burners.

Wouldn't that cause the hydro system to get stressed and the motor additional stress on torqe. Hills are murder around here. Bigger tires..really?
 
spin the pumps faster you gett more speed, but sacrifice pump life.

bigger tires. larger tire act like a bigger sproket on a bike. you get higher ground speed, but loose torque
for example, a tire with a circumference of 24" in one revolution it travels 24". take a tire with a 36" circ. one revolution it will travel 36". so you travel a further distance for the same revolution. same principle as changing gears in a car...

just remember if you put larger rear tires you will need to re level your deck and all of your height adjustment points will read wrong..

I could see the benefit for driving a round a large site on flat ground, parking lots, ect. but anything more than 8mph on grass is gonna kill your body not to mention the more the mower bounces, the mroe stress on welds, screws nuts botls, ect...

you spent probably close to 8-10K on a piece of equipment that earns you money and keeps the bill collectors off your back and puts food on your table.

screwing a round with the pumps, pulley's ect to get an extra 1/2 mile per hour that may shorten the life of the pumps, mower, ect. is it worth it. is it worth the potential down time.

think worst case scenario. you speed up the pumps. they fail middle of summer...and you are down for a week... is it worth it...

And old saying

"Take care of your equipment, it pays your salary"
 
I regularly mow between 6-8mph to keep production up and feel a few more mph is possible while keeping a decent to good cut as long as you aren't getting bucked off the machine. One of my mowers (old Rich convertible) was only running around 6.5mph per my GPS and have it around 8.5mph now per my GPS. In spring when grass is growing faster and thick I keep speeds down to about 6mph or till I can't hear the engine strain, but after that it's full out as often as I can and the cut is still very acceptable. If you are serious about mowing faster you have to do more than increase ground speed as others have said the cut will degrade. While I have not changed pulley sizes to achieve faster speeds (keep in mind hydro pumps are only rated for so many input RPM's and without antifoaming agents the hydro fluid can cavitate, bye, bye hydro pump) I have gone to larger diameter tires which not only give you higher speeds but also give you a cushier ride while traveling faster. For example, if you have a 20" tire OEM running 7.5mph and switch to a 22" tire, your speed should now be at roughly 8.25mph. Not a huge jump, but on a 60" deck good for an additional 1/8 acre per hour production, so an extra acre per day just by going to a slightly larger tire. Don't forget to level your deck. I make sure to check the engine RPM every couple months, those engines are rated by the manufacture at 3,600RPM under load, and governer springs weaken over time (I will also note that I've tached out over 100 machines and not a single one has ever been at 3,600, most sit around 3,200RPM-3,400RPM). This is essential for the highest blade tip speed and ground speed. No, this does not void your warranty as the engine is rated at that RPM (and yes, I have worked in the warranty department for multiple top name commercial brands). I also run nothing but high lift blades except in the fall to chop leaves, gives you more deck vacuum to keep those blades of grass standing straight up in less time to cut them evenly as you pass by faster. Now keep in mind those high lift blades sap more power from the engine since they are essentially higher pitch fans that requires more power to turn at the same speed. I will also note but will not recommend what I have done, which is install smaller pulleys on the deck for a MUCH higher blade tip speed. In my case the OEM BTS was in the ballpark of 16,000fpm and I increased this with smaller off the shelf pulleys to roughly 19,000fpm and made a cheapo MTD RZT cut and stripe as well as any commercial unit. Also those larger tires have more rotating mass and therefore more rolling resistance also using more power to run full out. So if you don't feel like swapping to a more powerful engine, I have found a combination of Fitch Fuel catalyst and iridium spark plugs is a great deterrent for bogging and really seems to help the torque output through more complete combustion. Running full synthetics everywhere, including deck spindles helps as well. Oh, and you can find K&N air filters for most small engines with enough research for better filtration and a bit more oomf too.

Food for thought, I keep hearing those newer Dixie Choppers still cut really nice at 15mph....and when doing large acre parcels, 8mph feels like you are crawling.
CW... is there a way to find the actual BTS of a machine besides company spec stuff??
 
I think I will just settle for the way the factory has put my mowers together. If I want to go faster then I will just go buy a new mower with a larger motor, pumps, deck. My thought is when you go messing with them, you are just asking for trouble. I figure somebody a whole lot wiser than me has most of it figured out already. If it ain't broke just run it the way it is. When it does break fix it the way it came from the facory.
 
Half the time I don't even go full speed. But there are occasions where a little more speed would be nice. I have a 48/25hp that goes about 7.5mph.
Anyone ever swap Pullys on a ztr or belt drive to increase speed?
Posted via Mobile Device
sure...
plenty of kids on youtube ... and they will tell you - fun doesn't last for any long (if any); its not that easy like mechanical tranny gear-up : )))))
and here - is not their grandma 's lownmower tractor, - here industrial equipment - and even under oem specs - it doesn't last long - hydraulic failures - common place even under rated configuration; rear mower survives w/o pumps/motor replacement

put fast motors, like 3-5 ci, rated 500-1000 rpm - and go 50-70 mph...
torque will suck; efficiency - suck; agility , reliability - zero; (whole system should be revised) - it rises more issues than it's solves and more than its worth...

(check hustler sz. dc, etc - fast mowers threads, and see what price comes with few mph speed increase)
well, if it was easy - everyone would do it and have it - right? (and we wouldn't fight for every mph) : ))))
 
Other than OEM specs, yes there is a complicated way to calculate the blade tip speed, you need to accurately measure the engine RPM, PTO pulley, the deck drive pulley/spindle pulleys, and length of the blades....easier to keep googling till you find the manufactures specs online :rolleyes:. Or at least call the manufacture and ask.

Yes, you would sacrifice a little torque at the wheels with larger tires...if you are already having issues with hills I wouldn't suggest this method, in fact you may want to reduce the tire size. This was also why I suggested multiple points of attack including a few changes to the engine. Overall tire diameter is essentially like changing the rear gear ratio on a car or truck, kind of like changing from a 4.11 gear to a 3.92 gear, you sacrifice a little acceleration in favor of higher top speed and better mileage and vice versa. It all depends on your particular application and what you want your mower to do. I'm not talking about changing from a 20" tire to a 26" tire, that's just too much and likely wouldn't fit under your rear tank fenders anyway. I'm talking a modest upgrade in overall diameter like 2"-4"max. This is typically around 10% or less depending on your factory size which you will not notice torque loss unless you are very underpowered to start out with. I would hope most of you guys aren't trying to pop wheelies at the start of each pass as it is :nono:. I usually change tires on all my mowers anyway since I have some serious slopes to deal with, and go with ag style ATV tires to get as much sideways grip as possible, why not add a little speed and comfort while I'm at it? This is commercial equipment, and as long as you aren't thrashing your equipment in the first place a 10% increase in tire size isn't going to start breaking wheel motors...unless you are trying to tow way too much weight with it (only the Dixie Chopper Classic and Excaliber are excluded from that statement). Sometimes mowers don't go out the door with max ground speed that was originally intended as well, do a search on here for the Ferris 3100. That's a 12mph mower that leaves the factory at 10mph so the dealer can reset it if the customer desires.

For the most part, I'm a 1 man operation, so the more productivity I can get out of my equipment the more work I can get done in a day. I'm all about increasing the efficiency of anything I have, once I feel I've done that to the drivetrain and engine, I see where I can put that extra power to increase the efficiency of my day. Sometimes the smallest details make a huge difference, do some research on parastatic loss and friction. Heck, even my truck and trailer have seen heavy mods to help out. I'm now getting about the same mileage while pulling the trailer loaded as I was with the truck alone when I bought it....and considering the truck has over 160,000 miles, that's saying something. Also one of my mowers is a 1996 and still has the original drivetrain (no hour meter so I can't brag about that). And yes, I am also a gear head....my grocery getter is a mid 12 second car. :drinkup:
 
Oh, and just a side note...just because the factory did something a certain way on a particular model doesn't make it the best way for multiple reasons. Do you think the top of the line models really cost twice as much to produce as the mid line models? Nope, they charge that much because they can. They also have to give you a reason to pay twice as much for the top of the line models, similar to the Corvette and Camaro, they detune the Camaro so some people will still buy the Corvette. If a human designed and built something, there will always be room for improvement, and half the time what came off the drawing room table is not what hits the showroom floor if they can save a few pennies here and there. Just a few examples are iridium spark plugs, filters, bearings, and synthetic lubricants. Synthetics are far superior in every way yet only a couple of smaller brands have learned to use them in their equipment factory, and even then they don't go fully synthetic everywhere. If the factory always knew best and had the best there would be no NASCAR, NHRA as we know it today...much less improvements that came from those things like ABS brakes and such. By the way, there would also be no Dixie Choppers, read that story as it's very interesting. :usflag: Understanding how things work is priceless, yet ignorance is bliss.*trucewhiteflag*
 
I have a Scag Tiger cub, tuned to do 12 & 13mph by gps. I will try to put a video up of it soon. Although, most of the time when I mow with it I only run around 8 to 9 mph. Can't tell you my mods though. It's to much run out running my freinds Turf Tigers. It also has 950hrs on it. So the mods have'nt done any damage to the mower.
 
I have a Scag Tiger cub, tuned to do 12 & 13mph by gps. I will try to put a video up of it soon. Although, most of the time when I mow with it I only run around 8 to 9 mph. Can't tell you my mods though. It's to much run out running my freinds Turf Tigers. It also has 950hrs on it. So the mods have'nt done any damage to the mower.
See youtube tiger cub 12 mph wheelie
 
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