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Burl-e

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Okay, I've seen some references to the Drive Pump Belt replacement being a 5 minute job. I'll admit that I'm not a top notch mechanic, but I don't see how I'm going to replace this belt without taking off the clutch and maybe a few pulleys as well. Is there a trick that I'm missing? These things have to go out regularly, why doesn't the owner's manual list the replacement steps?

Here's a pic, if it will help. Thanks for any help!

Image
 
I will bump this I am interested since I am a new turf tiger owner. I took a quick look before trying to order extra belts and thought it was going to be easy. Clutch shouldn't be hard to get off unless it is froze on. I didn
t understand why there are several different belt lengths depending on motor types?
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
I can do it it 5 minutes and pick my nose for 4 of the 5. Seriously one minute tops. The clutch doesn't come off, it has a cotter pin that isn't shown in your picture is the key.
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Thank you for the helpful post. I had no idea that nose-picking was the secret to changing this belt. So, are the slimy fingers the secret to slipping re belt between the too-narrow opening between the clutch and metal box as shown in my pic?
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Don't let a post like that bother you. People need to show their (perceived)superiority over other people to reaffirm their own worthless exsistance. The nosepicking comment proves that theroy. Don't work on scag, but couldn't you just remove one end of the anti-rotation link?
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Kinda looks like you got some oil leaking in the rear on those pulleys?
I'm pretty sure it's grease. I bought this mower with 1200 hours on it a few years ago, and it had a significant problem with the fuel delivery system. I've been slowly replacing parts and replacing fluids system by system since then. However, I think the grease is a symptom of over-lubricating with a standard chassis grease rather than using the high-temp grease. I guess we'll see . . . but it certainly does make it messy to change a belt! Thanks for the head's-up.
 
It is really easy. Unplug clutch, unpin anti rotate bar, and everything slides in and out with a 1/2 rachet. It is really simple unless something else is not in the factory position.
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Discussion starter · #10 ·
It is really easy. Unplug clutch, unpin anti rotate bar, and everything slides in and out with a 1/2 rachet. It is really simple unless something else is not in the factory position.
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That was quite helpful--thank you! I unplugged the clutch, unpinned the anti-rotate bar, and mistreated the belt by tugging it through the tight spot between the clutch and the frame seen there. I could not get the clutch or anything to slide out, even with using a ratchet--the engine shaft would simply rotate as I turned the ratchet, and nothing would loosen up.

I did remove the tension spring and removed the other belt to allow the pump drive belt to be placed behind the other belt. A dirty job due to the greasy mess in there, but doable . . . took me about 30 minutes in all. Thanks again.
 
I'm pretty sure it's grease. I bought this mower with 1200 hours on it a few years ago, and it had a significant problem with the fuel delivery system. I've been slowly replacing parts and replacing fluids system by system since then. However, I think the grease is a symptom of over-lubricating with a standard chassis grease rather than using the high-temp grease. I guess we'll see . . . but it certainly does make it messy to change a belt! Thanks for the head's-up.
I'll beat this dead horse a little more......unless I am missing something I think there is only one grease fitting back there right?
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
I'll beat this dead horse a little more......unless I am missing something I think there is only one grease fitting back there right?
Yes. However, I've never lost any engine oil according to the dipstick in the last two seasons. What else could it be that is going on that I should worry about? I check the oil each week before mowing.
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Yes. However, I've never lost any engine oil according to the dipstick in the last two seasons. What else could it be that is going on that I should worry about? I check the oil each week before mowing.
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The hydro units are close .......pretty hard to detect a small amount of
leaking using the dip stick though. If all that grease is from the that rear bearing you might look at where it is worn out...shouldn't be slinging that much grease unless it is constantly overgreased. This is one of those case that pressure washing the rear area out might be a good idea then it will easier to tell where the oil is coming from.
 
I did remove the tension spring and removed the other belt to allow the pump drive belt to be placed behind the other belt. A dirty job due to the greasy mess in there, but doable . . . took me about 30 minutes in all. Thanks again.
Is there a trick to removing the belt tension spring? I can imagine muscling it but it seems a little risky if you don't do it right.
 
My 2001 61" Turf Tiger broke the Hydro Drive belt tonight...I also need some help to replace the hydro drive belt. Am I correct that I will need to remove the anti-rotate bar, unplug the clutch wire, then take off the blade drive belt. Is there a way to not have to take off the drive belt? At this point I don't see a way. This is the first belt I have changed since I acquired the mower in 2003. My guess is there are plenty of people who have done this... Let me know what you think... I would really appreciate it..
 
This was covered in post#10
That was quite helpful--thank you! I unplugged the clutch, unpinned the anti-rotate bar, and mistreated the belt by tugging it through the tight spot between the clutch and the frame seen there. I could not get the clutch or anything to slide out, even with using a ratchet--the engine shaft would simply rotate as I turned the ratchet, and nothing would loosen up.

I did remove the tension spring and removed the other belt to allow the pump drive belt to be placed behind the other belt. A dirty job due to the greasy mess in there, but doable . . . took me about 30 minutes in all. Thanks again.
 
My 2001 61" Turf Tiger broke the Hydro Drive belt tonight...I also need some help to replace the hydro drive belt. Am I correct that I will need to remove the anti-rotate bar, unplug the clutch wire, then take off the blade drive belt. Is there a way to not have to take off the drive belt? At this point I don't see a way. This is the first belt I have changed since I acquired the mower in 2003. My guess is there are plenty of people who have done this... Let me know what you think... I would really appreciate it..
Well, Job Done. I guess I was a little disappointed by the dealer cost of the v-belt...$34.50 for a small belt that I would have thought should have been more like $10. But that is what it is....
So the job tasks were mentioned in another post were pretty complete.
but some helpful hints for others:
(1) unplug the clutch connection... was kind of hard, but there is a tab on the widest part of the connection that if you pry up and pull, it might be helpful to use a small screw driver, but I was able to work it loose without any tools.
(2)The Anti-rotation bar came off, no Problems remove the wire clip
(3) the Spring that holds tension on the clutch drive was hard to remove. Mainly because I didn't notice the 1/2" drive square hole on the idler pulley bracket. But a set of vice grips and pulling on the spring itself, provided enough force to pull the spring off.
(4) Now ready to put the belt on.. Went on pretty much as expected, It was about then I noticed the 1/2" drive square hole... I put a small cheater on my ratchet with a small extension. and that allowed me to hold everything and to get enough slack to get the belt on.
.... So the fellow that says he could do it in 5 minutes had done it a couple of times. But was probably not far off. Took longer to get the tools and put them back up than to do the job. Sounds about right for a lot of jobs. Thanks for everyones help!!
 
Well, Job Done. I guess I was a little disappointed by the dealer cost of the v-belt...$34.50 for a small belt that I would have thought should have been more like $10. But that is what it is....
So the job tasks were mentioned in another post were pretty complete.
but some helpful hints for others:
(1) unplug the clutch connection... was kind of hard, but there is a tab on the widest part of the connection that if you pry up and pull, it might be helpful to use a small screw driver, but I was able to work it loose without any tools.
(2)The Anti-rotation bar came off, no Problems remove the wire clip
(3) the Spring that holds tension on the clutch drive was hard to remove. Mainly because I didn't notice the 1/2" drive square hole on the idler pulley bracket. But a set of vice grips and pulling on the spring itself, provided enough force to pull the spring off.
(4) Now ready to put the belt on.. Went on pretty much as expected, It was about then I noticed the 1/2" drive square hole... I put a small cheater on my ratchet with a small extension. and that allowed me to hold everything and to get enough slack to get the belt on.
.... So the fellow that says he could do it in 5 minutes had done it a couple of times. But was probably not far off. Took longer to get the tools and put them back up than to do the job. Sounds about right for a lot of jobs. Thanks for everyones help!!
Well this is the best design for service and I never had a belt fail on my two units with a lot of hours. Might want to check if all the pulleys are alighned. Not many $10 belts any more. Good job!
 
(3) the Spring that holds tension on the clutch drive was hard to remove. Mainly because I didn't notice the 1/2" drive square hole on the idler pulley bracket. But a set of vice grips and pulling on the spring itself, provided enough force to pull the spring off.
Ya know...Scag makes an owners manual fer yer unit. They usually tell ya how to go about changin' belts and such, right?
http://www.scag.com/manuals.html
 
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