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help!!!!belt jumping off dixie chopper

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millerlawn

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
hey everyone,i have a dixie chopper xw2500 60in cut.my chopper is a great mower but here recently my belt keeps coming off from the double tension pulleys .it runs from the back engine pulley to the center spindle pulley,i have changed the spindle bearings and the bushing in the triangle platform with the two pulleys
.i also bought the correct spring that runs from the triangle piece to the blade engaging rod.i have a 72in chopper but my 60 is so much easier to move around on smaller yards.i really need to get it fixed.today i used it and second pass it popped off,i have engaged blades and watched it everything looks level.im stumped.only thing left to buy would be the triangle platform and two pulleys,i figured someone has had this prob or heard of it .
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I will check for sure.I have a guide broke off on one side of back pulley the other is in place.I just don't see how the belt slips inbetween them two pullies.it don't pop off the front or back just the middle
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#4 ·
millerlawn said:
I will check for sure.I have a guide broke off on one side of back pulley the other is in place.I just don't see how the belt slips inbetween them two pullies.it don't pop off the front or back just the middle
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Jumps out the 2 pullies then The 2 pulley system is pitch down in the front and belt is running close to the pulley edge and the pulley is bitting the belt
It wont take much being out of line for the pulley bite the belt and jump off

say thats the problem but Im not there looking at it in person I have owned 11 still have 9 of them

Good luck on the fix let me know what you find out
 
#5 ·
Even with the bushing replaced on the triangle plate, I'd still make sure it's moving freely. I've seen them seize up and hardly move causing problems.

Have you also replaced the belt? It might be over-stretched and in need of replacement.

Also make sure you have the correct tension on the spring.

Your problems are one of the reasons why Dixie went to an electric clutch engagement. I'm surprised it took as long as it did for them to go away from that design.

....
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
So u saying I need to get the pullies aligned right? I checked the shaft that the triangle patfiem slides on to make sure it wasn't bent and was straight.that's why I put the new bushing in to make sure it wasn't cocked crooked.....thanks again...
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Discussion starter · #7 ·
Yes I put a new belt on,the triangle plate moves great.when I took it apart I wiped the grease off and took a piece of emrey cloth and went over it. I hhavent looked agnes choppers in a while to see what they got
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#8 ·
millerlawn said:
Yes I put a new belt on
Click to expand...
Was this new belt a "RAW" edge belt ?

The two pulleys on the triangle plate should be close to hitting each other, If the gap is wider try loosening the pulley bolts and move them closer together. The V-idler should be on the outer hole (further left sitting in seat looking down at it) on the triangle plate, The rear belt guide needs to be replaced for they aid in reducing belt slap during engagement and disengagement.
 
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#9 ·
Ditto RestroRob....
A few other things to check....
Make sure the pulley on the triangle plate and the upper middle pulley on the deck are level with each other when the belt is engaged...
If your new belt was pulled off... thru the triangle plate pulleys..it may have been damaged...They can get a weak spot from being pinched thru the pulleys causing them to continue to jump off..
Make sure that there is no binding in the blade engage rod...if it is sluggish ...the belt may not be fully engaged or disengaged...causing the belt to flop excessively and get munched thru the pulleys on the triangle plate...
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#10 ·
White Gardens said:
Even with the bushing replaced on the triangle plate, I'd still make sure it's moving freely. I've seen them seize up and hardly move causing problems.

Have you also replaced the belt? It might be over-stretched and in need of replacement.

Also make sure you have the correct tension on the spring.

Your problems are one of the reasons why Dixie went to an electric clutch engagement. I'm surprised it took as long as it did for them to go away from that design.

....
Click to expand...
I have more problems with the electric clutch models vs manual models
break more belts
 
#11 ·
Snyder's Lawn Inc said:
break more belts
Click to expand...
The largest thing I've found with belt breakage/snapping is engaging the clutch at full throttle, And this I see on all different brand equipment.

People will be mowing along wide open and kill the blades to go across a sandy area (dirt/gravel drive etc) then snatch it back on after crossing and snap.....
 
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#12 ·
Snyder's Lawn Inc said:
I have more problems with the electric clutch models vs manual models
break more belts
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I tend to agree. I have had many belts get destroyed when first turning on the clutch. I usually do it around mid-rpm and every once in a while it will kick the damn belt off and if I'm really unlucky it will suck in into the clutch and cut it in half. A few times it has even wrapped the belt around the clutch so tightly that it wedges it between the pulley and the bottom clutch plate. Pulling it back out can be a royal pain. I just try to always have a couple of extra B-89's with me at all times. On the bright side the electric clutch configuration is much easier to put a new belt on. I can do it as little as 2 or 3 minutes.
 
#13 ·
If you use a factory belt or a good equivelent...carlisle...etc..
You won't have too many problems...the main thing is to keep an eye on the spring loaded adjustment...keep it tight...
If the belt gets wrapped inside the clutch...bring your lunch...
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#14 ·
piston slapper said:
If you use a factory belt or a good equivelent...carlisle...etc..
You won't have too many problems...
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That's right Slapper, People don't understand OEM's do extensive testing to find the best configured belt for their equipment. Not all belts are built the same..... I can't count the times people brought their machine in complaining about eating belts, I never find any reason other than that wrapped NAPA belt they had been using in place of a raw edge.

Use the same configured belt (wrapped or raw edge) in a Carlisle brand and issues will be few....
 
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#16 ·
aaron79mowing said:
I tend to agree. I have had many belts get destroyed when first turning on the clutch. I usually do it around mid-rpm and every once in a while it will kick the damn belt off and if I'm really unlucky it will suck in into the clutch and cut it in half. A few times it has even wrapped the belt around the clutch so tightly that it wedges it between the pulley and the bottom clutch plate. Pulling it back out can be a royal pain. I just try to always have a couple of extra B-89's with me at all times. On the bright side the electric clutch configuration is much easier to put a new belt on. I can do it as little as 2 or 3 minutes.
Click to expand...
My 2010 72'' had a design error
the tensioner had only one pulley and it didnt matter what rpm you was at it would jump the belt off there
I went thru 7 belts in the first week owning it
There was kinda a recall for it if you had belt problems Replace the single pulley to a double pulley
My dealer is 3 hrs away So took it back they fix it and they me gave 7 free belts
I still have all 7 belts LOL
Then I bought 2011 72'' it had the single pulley before I left with new mower I made sure they added the other pulley
 
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