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Husqvarna Trimmer Won't Stay Running

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fowlhunter

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I know there's other threads about stuff like this but this thing is driving me crazy cause I can't figure it out. My dad bought it new about 10? years ago, it's the model 325L. My neighbor has a 223L that's fairly new and I have it at my house right now. I am swapping parts out back and forth to try and figure out why it's acting like this. I bought a new carb for it when dad let me have it, I tried the old and new carb and the same with both. I put the new carb on the 223L and it runs fine on it too so I know it's adjusted correclty. Ive tried changing everything I can get to easily, carb, muffler (with and without spark arrestor), spark plug (new and old), new primer bulb, took the filter off the fuel pick-up in tank, still runs the same. I have seafoamed it and such too.

It cranks after a few pulls on choke, primer bulb is pumping correctly, and will run and warm up with choke on, but if you try to take it off or throttle it it dies, sometimes it just dies by itself on choke (half or full) after running for about 15-30 seconds. Dad said he replaced all the fuel lines on it, even going into tank, and they all look good, even replaced the bulb, I don't see any cracks or anything where it's sucking air. It did sit for about 3 years before Dad pulled it out and put new lines and stuff on it. After that he tried firing it up and it didn't run right, which is why I have it now:drinkup:

It's not a main trimmer, I just wanted to get it going for an extra sitting around if I could. Please don't comment saying it's junk cause it's a husqvarna, I've run them all and like certain models of each brand, I'm not brand specific, I just enjoy having stuff that's paid off and doesn't cost me an arm and a leg up front. That being said, i'm not gonna dump a lot of money into it just to get it going again, I just wanted to know if anyone else has encountered this problem before and/or what y'all might think it is.
 
#2 ·
Does it cut out on you at idle, or at any and all throttle settings?

If it's doing it only or mostly at idle, it's likely your flywheel-to-shaft clutch sticking.
The easy way to tell, is if it can't idle and the stringed head never stops spinning.
When the clutch sticks the shaft never stops spinning and the extra load from the gear trim head causes the engine to die.

If it's doing it at most throttle settings and air and fuel is good, most likely it's your ignition module or the spark plug.
Could also be a bad connection between the wire and the little spring-loaded thing that clips onto your spark plug.
Depending on your mechanical skills it might be easier to replace the coil than attempt to rebuild it, on the other hand the steel-spring wire just clips through the rubber into the coil wire.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
i wouldn't think its the clutch, cause I've had the line head on and off of it to try both ways. Right before I set it down to stop tinkering with it for the day and take my neighbors trimmer back it was running a little better. I put my carb and spark plug and other parts back on and used his muffler which still looks new and it ran a lil better. Still doesn't wanna fire on the first pull everytime, and it has to be started on half choke after it dies most of the time. It will fire up and run higher rpm's with the throttle engaged through the choke, then when i pull the trigger and take the throttle lock off it wants to run at idle, but just can't, I played with it and sometimes i could get it to run at high rpm's but when u let it go it will bog down. I know how the spark plug wire is connected and what the inside looks like, but I didn't swap those parts out and try it yet, just because i had to take another cover and such off to get to that. I was just hoping that's not what it was, but could be. It's gummed up pretty bad with carbon build up too, I know it'll have some as all do, but the muffler is just toast. You think that may be part of it inside the block/cylinder walls? What's the best way to clear that? Or just rebuild the cylinder? If I have to rebuild a cylinder or something I'll just pass on it and use this one for parts.
 
#4 ·
All this parts changing and not one mention of a compression check at this point---at 10 years old it may be tired or you could have some carbon locked rings. Check the compression----if less than 100 psi you're likely wasting your time unless you want to put a new jug and piston on it. With the muffler off, check the condition of the piston and cylinder.

Is the exhaust port clear and unobstructed. If the muffler is carbon loaded you can heat it up, with a torch, to red hot then bang around on it to break loose excess carbon buildup.

Is there any evidence of leaking around the base gasket? If the base gasket is leaking, the engine will not suck fuel properly.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Ive already heated the muffler and done that, I'll get a new one for it if I get it going cause this one's still "muffled up" too much.

I don't have a compression tester or I would have done that. Don't assume that everyone has every single tool available, just simply mention it would be a good idea to test that.

The exhaust port is clear. Where's the base gasket you're referring to? This sounds more like what my problem is, or too much wear on piston/cylinder with carbon everywhere inside it.

It just sounds odd that this thing would wear out that quick. I mean it was bought new and only used in lawn care for like 2 years at 12 yards a summer, mostly bi-weekly, maybe 4 weekly mowings. Then just used sparingly by my dad for regular homeowner use, then sat for like 2 years before trying to bring it back to life. My dad has a redmax that's quite a few years older than this that was bought from a large LCO and still runs flawless without a line guard on it since the day we got it. Now I know I'm starting to compare brands and we can get into that for paragraphs, but seriously, it's not much use from what I usually put on em.
 
#7 ·
http://www.brodnerparts.com/pages/O...ower_Equipment/325_LX_(2000-04)/Piston//Cylinder//Muffler/21|~95|~1108/21950009

The base gasket I'm referring to is the gasket between the jug and lower crankcase---but it appears, from the parts breakdown, Husky doesn't show a gasket, either with the jug or the lower crankcase. Just guessing, with no gasket shown, I would assume they use an anerobic sealant of some kind---I use Permatex 518(not sure on the number).

Check the compression first, then proceed as you wish.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
andy35321 said:
Does the fuel lines go into grommets before going into tank. If they do did you replace these when you replaced fuel lines.
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Click to expand...
They do, I meant to try the ones from my neighbors when I had it but didn't. I'll put new grommets and try it again. I shook the trimmer around to build up gas pressure in tank and see if I could get any air to leak out or turn it upside down to see if they leaked but they didn't, I had to move the lines around to let pressure and gas out. I'm sure it's just a parts trimmer now
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#10 ·
A leaking / corroded / cracked primer bulb will do it, especially if it's a tiny leak...
You might just have a bad carburetor or the gasket's worn out as well.

You realize you need to replace the gaskets when you pull a carburetor that's been on there a long time.
Because it does sound like it's sucking air, why it needs to stay choked and won't idle.

I usually run premium unleaded with 100:1 Amsoil Sabre, mine don't suffer from gum and varnish problems unless something leaks.
 
#13 ·
It sounds to me like compression is not your problem. If compression was low it wouldn't start as easy as it does. Having said that, it still should be checked as part of a systematic troubleshooting process. If you look into the spark plug hole, intake and exhaust ports and see any scoring at all then just walk away because you will end up with more invested than it's worth. If the cylinder is clean then the next step based on what you've covered already is to pressure test the engine. Because doing this requires special tools and plugs and block off plates specific to your engine, it's pretty much a dealer job. The pressure test will check crank seals, base gasket, intake boot/gaskets/pulse port and decompression valve if equipped.
The redneck way to test these things is to spray carb cleaner at these areas when the engine is running. If there is a leak you will know.

Scott
 
#15 ·
+ 1 on the crank seals. After all you've done, not only about all that's left, but the symptoms point to it too. When you partially close the choke on an engine, you're restricting incoming air flow, which creates a higher vacuum inside the carb, thereby drawing in more fuel, enriching the mixture. When the crank seals are shot, partially closing the choke causes the enriched mixture from the application of the choke to mix with the air that leaked into the crankcase past the seals to be a burnable mixture.

The other consideration is that as the crank seals began to leak more and more, the mixture became leaner and leaner.. Not necessarily the best thing for an engine.

The above mentioned "Redneck" method is actually a valid diagnostic tool. You can use Starting fluid too.

The only "Redneck" fix I know for a leaking seal is to saturate it with some of the "Miracle Goo", by whatever brand name that you choose from your local Automotive parts place. I'm not sure how the seal comes out of a Husky, but if you can get it off from the outside of the block, ... You'd be looking for the stuff you dump in an automatic transmission that stops leaky seals by making them swell up. IF, and that's a big if, you can remove the seal without damaging it, toss it in the seal swell stuff for a few days, then do three "Hail Marys", throw some salt over your left shoulder, and re- install. If that's not possible, then take off the nose of the trimmer, and stand it on it's butt, so that the seal is straight up and down. put a ring of silicone, or "Shoe Goo" around it, and let it cure for a day. Pour a bit of the trans fix goo into the well you made and leave it for a couple of days. rotate the motor, if you can, without slopping it out of the well. That will help to try and draw the stuff into the seal past the shaft.

Probability of success? maybe 50 -50 that you'll see it run acceptably, but it's not a huge amount of money to try either.

Other than that, it's probably a parts donor.
 
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#18 ·
Earthquake Landscaping said:
+ 1 on the crank seals. After all you've done, not only about all that's left, but the symptoms point to it too. When you partially close the choke on an engine, you're restricting incoming air flow, which creates a higher vacuum inside the carb, thereby drawing in more fuel, enriching the mixture. When the crank seals are shot, partially closing the choke causes the enriched mixture from the application of the choke to mix with the air that leaked into the crankcase past the seals to be a burnable mixture.

The other consideration is that as the crank seals began to leak more and more, the mixture became leaner and leaner.. Not necessarily the best thing for an engine.

The above mentioned "Redneck" method is actually a valid diagnostic tool. You can use Starting fluid too.

The only "Redneck" fix I know for a leaking seal is to saturate it with some of the "Miracle Goo", by whatever brand name that you choose from your local Automotive parts place. I'm not sure how the seal comes out of a Husky, but if you can get it off from the outside of the block, ... You'd be looking for the stuff you dump in an automatic transmission that stops leaky seals by making them swell up. IF, and that's a big if, you can remove the seal without damaging it, toss it in the seal swell stuff for a few days, then do three "Hail Marys", throw some salt over your left shoulder, and re- install. If that's not possible, then take off the nose of the trimmer, and stand it on it's butt, so that the seal is straight up and down. put a ring of silicone, or "Shoe Goo" around it, and let it cure for a day. Pour a bit of the trans fix goo into the well you made and leave it for a couple of days. rotate the motor, if you can, without slopping it out of the well. That will help to try and draw the stuff into the seal past the shaft.

Probability of success? maybe 50 -50 that you'll see it run acceptably, but it's not a huge amount of money to try either.

Other than that, it's probably a parts donor.
Click to expand...
Fun fact. The goo to make an oil seal swell is ATF. The goo to make a tranny seal swell is motor oil. And no you won't get them out without destroying them.
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#19 ·
Definitely a cool fun fact.. Only other "fix" that came to mind, lowered the bar from "Redneck" ( a term that is actually a compliment, as what works, can trump what's "right" ), right into "This is ghetto, but might just work..

Remove the limiter cap and back the low speed jet out until it'll compensates for the crank seal letting air into the mixture. That won't work "correctly".. but it might work enough to "work". Turn the idle up enough so that if it riches up a bit, it won't stall, and "git 'er done".. The factory carb adjustment parameters weren't designed to allow compensation for a bad seal.

I've taken truck inner tube, galvanized gutter tube, tin snips, a rivet gun, a fibreglass body repair kit and a cutting torch, and made a forced induction cold air ram intake for a slant six. I speak Redneck fairly fluently, for being from north of the 49th parallel. LMAO.
 
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#20 ·
Earthquake Landscaping said:
Definitely a cool fun fact.. Only other "fix" that came to mind, lowered the bar from "Redneck" ( a term that is actually a compliment, as what works, can trump what's "right" ), right into "This is ghetto, but might just work..

Remove the limiter cap and back the low speed jet out until it'll compensates for the crank seal letting air into the mixture. That won't work "correctly".. but it might work enough to "work". Turn the idle up enough so that if it riches up a bit, it won't stall, and "git 'er done".. The factory carb adjustment parameters weren't designed to allow compensation for a bad seal.

I've taken truck inner tube, galvanized gutter tube, tin snips, a rivet gun, a fibreglass body repair kit and a cutting torch, and made a forced induction cold air ram intake for a slant six. I speak Redneck fairly fluently, for being from north of the 49th parallel. LMAO.
Click to expand...
My ram air was close. Dryer hose connected to a second inlet riveted to an air cleaner housing. Running to two inlet pipes where the high beam headlights were.
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fowlhunter
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