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Honda HRX217 ground drive speed selector cable replacement - help needed (pics).

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#101 · (Edited)
Great write up! Decided to register to show another way of doing this which saves a lot of time, well it saves me a lot of time :)

I am surprised no one has posted another way of doing this. I just did one the other day and it took me all of 10 minutes. i have had to replace 4-5 speed selector cables in the last 12 years and have not once took apart the whole assembly when disconnecting or attaching to the transmission. Here is what I do:

Tools needed:
1.) needle nose pliers
2.) 2 flat long screwdrivers

Removal of the cable on the transmission:

1.) Press in pin next to spring on transmission (may need to hold screwdriver upwards toward the side of mower). Use other screwdriver to move rectangular piece out from clip on transmission
2.) take needle nose pliers and press around the back of the plastic clips (may also press on side with screwdriver if its not backing out) use one of the flat head screwdriver to press it backwards and away from transmission.

Installation of the new cable:

Start by routing the transmission cable through the top deck and down towards the transmission. BTW: I always lay it on the right side of the mower so you don't have to bend as far down.
1.) route a little more cable than is needed to extend the cable down by the transmission so you can bend it somewhat for entry of the plastic locking clip into its mouting slot (may want to use the needle nose pliers to press it in.)
2.) Using one of the flathead screwdrivers push (down) the pin thats on the transmission spring.
3.) use your needle nose pliers or the other screwdriver push in the rectangle cable holder past the locking pin.
4.)sometimes you will need to fiddle a little but it goes in...


Adjustment of cable by selector:
1.) look to your old cable if its the same part number as the new one, set the clinch nuts on the new one to be close to where they were on your old cable. This will allow for quick use and very very minor adjustments to be needed.

If this makes sense this can be done very fast 5-10 minutes. I explained it to my friend and he did it and is now happy he doesn't have to take a whole bunch of stuff off.

Hopefully this helps someone else save some time! Next time I may take some photos....
 
#102 ·
Robert, thanks for your tips on doing it without removing all the other parts. I am attempting to follow your directions but struggling to figure out where exactly to press the pin next to the spring. Anyway you could post some pictures of how you accomplished? Thanks in advance.

Gary
 
#103 ·
Here are 2 videos that I made on a leaky honda hr217 lawnmower transmission. I show how to remove the transmission and how I repaired mine. This video shows you the process of accessing the speed cable on the transmission. Just thought this may help some. Thanks for the original pics Roger.

 
Discussion starter · #104 ·
I know this is an old thread, and I posted lots of pictures to help explain. However, he is a video that shows and explains a transmission replacement in an HRX217. Many of these same tasks were part of the cable replacement. The transmission replacement goes further, as the transaxles are removed.

The video posts by Doublewide6 are good, but of a model a little different than an HRX217. The video link below is an HRX217 specifically.

But, the video shows in good detail how to take apart the items, bolting, and some things to watch for (e.g. longer bolts).


Since this thread has been kept alive, there must be a small pool of people who need to know this information. I just add the video link to further the information in this thread.
 
#105 ·
I just read all the posts and excellent write/pictures of how to replace the speed change cable on the HRX self-propelled mowers. My cable broke on the end that attaches to the transmission. I was going to follow the instructions in the post but after looking at the mower, I thought of an easier way. I almost hate to post this, because some will say I "took the easy way out", but hey - this is a lawn mower and not a collector car. I lifted up the rear chute and cut an access hole that allowed me to clearly see the cable hookup, get access to it, and get my hands in there to make the connection very easy. Also the same hole can be used if I ever need to change the belt. When I was done, I cut a piece of galvanized steel and made and access panel cover to go over the hole. The hole, the panel, and the screws that hold it did not compromise the integrity or the operation of the mower and replacing that cable was a LOT easier. It would be nice if Honda would build their mowers with that access panel already in there. I have attached pictures of the hole and the cover. Good luck.

Rick Hinman - Erie, PA

Image


Image
 
#106 ·
Roger said:
jberb53... glad to hear the photos and descriptions helped. When I made the first posts in July 2009, nearly five years ago, I never dreamed the thread would have this kind of life. I continue to be amazed at first-time posters make comment about the photos and descriptions. Had I realized they were going to be this useful, I would have done a better job. :)

I don't know how people are finding this thread. WWW is a huge enterprise, with all kinds of information, and to narrow down to this thread for the specific issue is quite amazing.

Maybe I should give up mowing and move to documenting repair jobs.
Click to expand...
Posted via Mobile Device

Roger
Well once again your thread lives on. I replaced my cable today and your excellent posts made this job painless. 1.5 hours start to finish allowed me to keep this old Honda running and keeping my yard looking great.
Thanks so much!!
 
Discussion starter · #107 ·
Wow! When I first posted this thread many years ago, I would never have dreamed about the readership and longevity. Actually, I think I was unsure how to do the job, and was asking for help, ... and got it. Then followed the pictures and descriptions.

Perhaps there is an irony that I have not had to change out a cable in several years. I think I changed one out not long after this was posted, but none since. And, I have not had to change out a belt. I use my HRX217 every day and have done so since this thread was started. Some days it gets lots of use.

coolstreetrod, ... good idea about the hole. Did you pop-rivet the plate over the hole? I think there are some other parts that need to be removed for a belt change. Removal of the shutter and other parts may be necessary anyway, ... I am not sure without looking. But, I can understand getting the loop/hook task done through the hole, apart from taking all the other parts off on the underside.

I am pleased that the info here has helped so many people. Thanks LS for the instrument to make it happen.
 
#108 ·
Roger
Great post. It was very helpful.
I'm having trouble getting the new change clip on. How did you get the spring compressed to get the clip on? Maybe you could post some picks on how you did it. I'm an old f--t and can't seem to figure out. Thanks again for the great pictures. Hope you can help me.
 
#110 ·
Thank you for the long lived post!! Came across from some google searches. Registered on lawnsite, found tread, pictures and video's very helpful & informative. At least now I have idea of what's involved in replacing clutch cable. Cable broke near control handle, Jerry-rigged a repair at the time that's lasted 2-3 years. Had bought new cable but delayed install once I saw it was not going to be easy to just pop off the old one above transmission due to access issues. Going on 11 yrs residential use of my Honda HRX 217 TDA.
 
#111 ·
Just wanted to put my thanks into this thread. Seven years from the first post, and it is still quite relevant and helpful. It saved me hours of time!

I remember reading this several years ago and kept it in the back of my head. When I saw that my cable was broken (at the transmission end) I searched for the fix on Google and was happy to come right back here.
 
#112 ·
I was so happy I found this site last year when I needed to change my cable. After a couple of initial mowings this year I pulled my mower out of the shed and noticed a puddle of oil on the floor. Checked the oil and it was still full. I started her up and the transmission made some odd noises and wouldn't drive. Well thanks to this site I had enough knowledge to change the transmission and keep this 12 year old running strong. THANKS ROGER!!:)
 
#114 ·
robert1978 said:
Great write up! Decided to register to show another way of doing this which saves a lot of time, well it saves me a lot of time :)

I am surprised no one has posted another way of doing this. I just did one the other day and it took me all of 10 minutes. i have had to replace 4-5 speed selector cables in the last 12 years and have not once took apart the whole assembly when disconnecting or attaching to the transmission. Here is what I do:

Tools needed:
1.) needle nose pliers
2.) 2 flat long screwdrivers

Removal of the cable on the transmission:

1.) Press in pin next to spring on transmission (may need to hold screwdriver upwards toward the side of mower). Use other screwdriver to move rectangular piece out from clip on transmission
2.) take needle nose pliers and press around the back of the plastic clips (may also press on side with screwdriver if its not backing out) use one of the flat head screwdriver to press it backwards and away from transmission.

I used your method. I tried method listed above but one of the bolts stripped trying to get it out. Darn!. So I read your instructions...fooled a bit...then jammed a fat flathead into the transmission spring which got the rention pin to recede. I got the connector in place with in place after about ten minutes...now I just need to adjust the cable but IT WORKED!

Thank you
Click to expand...
 
#116 ·
#117 ·
rlitman said:
Once that metal crescent is off, the control arm just wiggles off. If you have a small puller, that would help. Something like a battery terminal puller:
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4611-Battery-Terminal-Puller/dp/B000ZIZ32W
Click to expand...
I am also unable to pull off the control arm. There is no "crescent thing" unless you mean the piece that holds down the shroud cylinder around the drive shaft and bolts all the way into the engine block. I took that off but the control arm just feels really firmly pressed on and I'm afraid of breaking something if I really yank on it.
 
#118 ·
robert1978 said:
Great write up! Decided to register to show another way of doing this which saves a lot of time, well it saves me a lot of time :)

I am surprised no one has posted another way of doing this. I just did one the other day and it took me all of 10 minutes. i have had to replace 4-5 speed selector cables in the last 12 years and have not once took apart the whole assembly when disconnecting or attaching to the transmission. Here is what I do:

Tools needed:
1.) needle nose pliers
2.) 2 flat long screwdrivers

Removal of the cable on the transmission:

1.) Press in pin next to spring on transmission (may need to hold screwdriver upwards toward the side of mower). Use other screwdriver to move rectangular piece out from clip on transmission
2.) take needle nose pliers and press around the back of the plastic clips (may also press on side with screwdriver if its not backing out) use one of the flat head screwdriver to press it backwards and away from transmission.

Installation of the new cable:

Start by routing the transmission cable through the top deck and down towards the transmission. BTW: I always lay it on the right side of the mower so you don't have to bend as far down.
1.) route a little more cable than is needed to extend the cable down by the transmission so you can bend it somewhat for entry of the plastic locking clip into its mouting slot (may want to use the needle nose pliers to press it in.)
2.) Using one of the flathead screwdrivers push (down) the pin thats on the transmission spring.
3.) use your needle nose pliers or the other screwdriver push in the rectangle cable holder past the locking pin.
4.)sometimes you will need to fiddle a little but it goes in...


Adjustment of cable by selector:
1.) look to your old cable if its the same part number as the new one, set the clinch nuts on the new one to be close to where they were on your old cable. This will allow for quick use and very very minor adjustments to be needed.

If this makes sense this can be done very fast 5-10 minutes. I explained it to my friend and he did it and is now happy he doesn't have to take a whole bunch of stuff off.

Hopefully this helps someone else save some time! Next time I may take some photos....
Click to expand...
First off, thanks to all those that posted, especially those that posted all the great pictures. I used the above quoted method, hoping to not have to use my intermediate mechanical skills (fairly competent, but never optimistic) and risk something not coming off (control arm that people had trouble with) or going back on properly. Anyway, I stopped by the hardware store and picked up a couple of different long needle nose pliers to help with the job - which were helpful. I went with the quoted route above and was able to do it in about 30-40 minutes without removing anything.

On my cable, and I don't know how it happened on a second year mower, it snapped roughly 5-6" away from where it hooks to the transmission. So I pulled out the bare metal cable from the top, and after removing the black cable cover, all that remained was the bare cable that connects to the transmission. I didn't need to push down on the pin and move the lever to remove the remaining cable, just pushed it off with a long screwdriver. Maybe doing this (cutting the cable) could help make it just a pinch easier for those attempting in the future.

The biggest requirement for this method is patience to get the end of the cable covering with tabs out/in the hole, and getting the end of the cable to loop around the latch on the transmission...but if I can manage to do it with only one curse-word, then anyone can do it.
 
#119 ·
Reverend Truth V Wicked said:
Roger -

I stumbled upon this thread when I was looking for what parts I needed to repair my mower. Thanks for posting this. I don't think I would have figured this out on my own. Who would think you'd have to remove so many parts for what should be a simple cable replacement?

Mine is an older mower and I needed the conversion kit for mine. I took a few photos to help folks that need to take this extra step.

To get to this point, I had to remove the belt and the tensioning spring before pivoting the transmission down to get at the cable.

View attachment 255743

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Click to expand...
This is a great thread and like you I have the generation mower that needed the conversion kit. I'm having a very hard time with the spring and seem to be unable to pull it back far enough for everything to sit on the post properly. The kit's instructions indicate that the slightly short end of the spring needs to be seated in, against the transmission case and the slightly longer end of the spring needs to be positioned against the new control arm. However,I observed from your terrific photos that you seated the longer arm against (in) the transmission case. Doing it this way seems to get me closer to installing the thing. But unfortunaely I'm still struggling with seating the control arm and spring. I know it's been several years since your contribution but I'm hoping you have a suggestion about how to get the thing in place.
 
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